The water pump on my 2.8L v6 just went out. No big deal, a simple job to replace. I checked the haynes repair manual, and it mentions this " on some early 2.8L v6 engines, the water pump bolts hold the front cover to the block. Removal of the water pump may break the chemical seal and allow coolant into the oil. To prevent this, secure the front cover to the block with a clamping device show in illistrations."
Could someone please elaborate/or explain more clearly what they are talking about. I'm good with my hands and familiar with cars, but not exactly a mechanic and its the first time I've ran across something like this. Thanks in advance!
Could someone please elaborate/or explain more clearly what they are talking about. I'm good with my hands and familiar with cars, but not exactly a mechanic and its the first time I've ran across something like this. Thanks in advance!
On those early mills the waterpump bolts were the only thing holding the top part of the timing cover to the block. So its possible to break the seal there, causing an oil or coolant leak.
If you think yours might be that way, remove the bolts & if the pump is stuck, pull it up instead of down, to break it loose. Alot of times the pump will stick to the cover.
If you think yours might be that way, remove the bolts & if the pump is stuck, pull it up instead of down, to break it loose. Alot of times the pump will stick to the cover.
Okay thanks. My camaro is an 88 model. I'm not sure if my motor is that way, but if I do break the seal, what do I have to do to correct it besides flushing the motor out with new oil and replacing the timing chain cover seal?
Supreme Member
If you just drain both sides of the block you won't have to worry about it.
It's an excuse to flush out all the debris that collects at the bottom of the water jackets in the block.
It's an excuse to flush out all the debris that collects at the bottom of the water jackets in the block.
Quote:
It's an excuse to flush out all the debris that collects at the bottom of the water jackets in the block.
Originally Posted by 305sbc
If you just drain both sides of the block you won't have to worry about it. It's an excuse to flush out all the debris that collects at the bottom of the water jackets in the block.
How do I drain both sides of the block? I know that may be a stupid question, but I wasn't raised around cars. Do you just simply pull the oil plug and let it drain? Or is there more to it?
Supreme Member
Quote:
Most engines have drain plugs for each bank water-jacket at the bottom of the block near the oil pan rail. Originally Posted by cam-camaro
How do I drain both sides of the block? I know that may be a stupid question, but I wasn't raised around cars. Do you just simply pull the oil plug and let it drain? Or is there more to it? On V8s the knock sensor acts as thel coolant on the passenger-side bank.
Pull the plugs and coolant drains out.
Thanks 305sbc.
By the way, the bolts holding my water pump in are star-heads, and I guess it does without saying that one of them was already stripped out. Any advice on how to get that sucker off there? I sprayed it with WD-40, letting it sit overnight.
By the way, the bolts holding my water pump in are star-heads, and I guess it does without saying that one of them was already stripped out. Any advice on how to get that sucker off there? I sprayed it with WD-40, letting it sit overnight.
If its only one, use vise grips & try to rotate the pump alittle. Sometimes that helps to loosen it.
What I have done in the past is to use some heat. Now it goes without saying you must be careful, anything in the heat zone that can burn or melt must be moved or protected. Now what I did was use a hand held torch like for plumbing and heat it as hot as you can get it. The heat will work its way down the shaft of the bolt to loosen the rust. Once heated I let it cool all the way down and then try the vise grip.
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Originally Posted by Edwardgp
What I have done in the past is to use some heat. Now it goes without saying you must be careful, anything in the heat zone that can burn or melt must be moved or protected. Now what I did was use a hand held torch like for plumbing and heat it as hot as you can get it. The heat will work its way down the shaft of the bolt to loosen the rust. Once heated I let it cool all the way down and then try the vise grip. the timing chain cover directly behind it is alumininum, so that rules out the torch. Besides, I"m a college student and I'm stuck in the parking lot With no money to buy a torch. I'm in a pretty tight spot here. There are three bolts stuck on the water pump, why in the hell GM would use torx head bolts on a water pump is beyond me.
Sorry for your dilemma, if you were close I would come over and help you get those bolts out. They have something new at the shop we are trying out. This stuff freezes the bolt and lubricates at the same time maybe that would work for you.
Also they now have these little tiny torches that would pin point the heat right on the bolt head and more and likely would not bother the aluminum.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Edwardgp
Sorry for your dilemma, if you were close I would come over and help you get those bolts out. They have something new at the shop we are trying out. This stuff freezes the bolt and lubricates at the same time maybe that would work for you. Whats that stuff called? I wouldn't mind giving it a try.
That is one brand anyway it would be worth a try.
Its a no-go. I don't think the bolt is rusted on, its just that i have no way to grip it to even get a turn.
Either cut the heads off w/ cut off wheel or have nuts welded to the heads of those bolts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ex-x-fire
Either cut the heads off w/ cut off wheel or have nuts welded to the heads of those bolts. Do yo think JB WELD would work? I'm kinda far from a power source, not to mention I don't own a welder. Im stuck in the parking lot of my college dorm.
Thanks guys. I finally got the bolt out with a grinder bit for a cordless drill, I just cut a notch in the bolt and used a chisel and two pound sledge to knock it loose.
Well that was an ordeal did you get the new water pump on are you up and running?
Not yet. Power stern pump bracket broke in the process, and the stud that comes out of the exhaust manifold for the PSP fell out, so I had a bit of trouble lining it back up. . I got everything back on the car, soon as its light tomorrow I'm going to charge the battery and fire it up.
OK so let us know how it goes.
Sorry for taking so long to get back to you. I got the water pump on just fine, ran like a dream with no leaks.




