Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
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Joined: Apr 2008
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From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
I deleted my vapor canister in anticipation for a CAI system. However, I am not sure that I can get the piping to go over the upper radiator hose and still have room to close the hood.
If I were to re-locate the battery to the driver side battery tray, could I get away with some longer length cables or would I have to relocate the alternator as well? If the battery is on the driver side, what is the wisest way to route a cable down to the starter which is still on the passenger side of the block?
If I were to re-locate the battery to the driver side battery tray, could I get away with some longer length cables or would I have to relocate the alternator as well? If the battery is on the driver side, what is the wisest way to route a cable down to the starter which is still on the passenger side of the block?
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From: Central Texas
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
I deleted my vapor canister in anticipation for a CAI system. However, I am not sure that I can get the piping to go over the upper radiator hose and still have room to close the hood.
If I were to re-locate the battery to the driver side battery tray, could I get away with some longer length cables or would I have to relocate the alternator as well? If the battery is on the driver side, what is the wisest way to route a cable down to the starter which is still on the passenger side of the block?
If I were to re-locate the battery to the driver side battery tray, could I get away with some longer length cables or would I have to relocate the alternator as well? If the battery is on the driver side, what is the wisest way to route a cable down to the starter which is still on the passenger side of the block?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
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Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 186
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From: logan,ohio
Car: 89 iroc
Engine: 5.7 trick flow heads t-ram
Transmission: wct5
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
If you found a firebird in the junkyard, you could get the correct battery cables to move the battery to the driver's side. Yes, the firebird positive battery cable is considerably longer.
You won't have to move the alternator. Good Luck
You won't have to move the alternator. Good Luck
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iTrader: (5)
Joined: Mar 2011
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From: Central Texas
Car: GTA
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: Aussie 9-bolt/3.27 posi
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
I've never paid attention to how my Firebird cables are routed, so I'm no help there on the routing of them.
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Joined: Apr 2010
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
If I remember correctly, the third gen V8 Firebirds Ive worked on had the positive batt cable routed across the front of the oil pan, behind the harmonic balancer. GM used brackets and cable stays to hold the cable in place in front of the oil pan. From there the cable runs along the same route as on the V8 Camaro.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,342
Likes: 24
From: Dumfries, VA
Car: 1985 Z28
Engine: 334 Stroker Superram 222/230
Transmission: Full Manual 700R4 / 3k Street Edge
Axle/Gears: 3.90 Eaton, Moser, Richmond & More
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
Alright, now here's a really noob question. I've never tried removing a battery tray before. Are they simply bolted in or are they spot welded?
Whichever tray I end up going with, my plans are to cut the bottom out of the tray, install a sort of steel mesh and build a box that seals the air filter against the tray. This way, the filter will actually be a true CAI setup but the air intake will not be routed through the tray to the underside of the car so I won't have a huge hydrolock risk if/when I ever hit a puddle.
Whichever tray I end up going with, my plans are to cut the bottom out of the tray, install a sort of steel mesh and build a box that seals the air filter against the tray. This way, the filter will actually be a true CAI setup but the air intake will not be routed through the tray to the underside of the car so I won't have a huge hydrolock risk if/when I ever hit a puddle.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 4,337
Likes: 29
From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: Battery Relocation (Not The Trunk)
The battery tray is part of the body. If you had the body completely stripped, you wou;ld see that the flat area on either side of the radiator opening could serve as a battery tray. One side was used as such while the other was used to mount the EVAP canister. I think that your idea to use this portion of the body as part of an air filter box would be fine. Just be sure to seal the housing well so you don't draw dirt around the filter.
I just realized your car is a Z28. Check out my cold air/ram air intake, which I built from the original air filter lid and housing. It's a precision job and took some time. Building the ram air boxes, that route air from the original fog light openings to the air filter housing, was a real trick. You need to have some skill with sheet metal. The plastic work on the filter lid, which involved opening it up about 5/8" in the narrow area over the radiator support and expanding it to accept a 4" hose instead of the original 3" billow, required alot of measuring and two trips to a specialty plastics shop to purchase materials and pricy two part cement. The result is fantastic. It outflows any aftermarket cold air intake and fits the car perfectly. Plus it makes the two ports at the front of the car function as ram air inlets(which Ive always thought was the original intent of the designers). At 100mph, my freind 1badZ has measured 1psi of positive pressure at his throttle body inlet with a similar system on his car. This system really helps my extreme TPI 355 get the air it wants.
My profile doesn't show alot of detail. But if you're interested, I can take some photos and PM them to you.
I just realized your car is a Z28. Check out my cold air/ram air intake, which I built from the original air filter lid and housing. It's a precision job and took some time. Building the ram air boxes, that route air from the original fog light openings to the air filter housing, was a real trick. You need to have some skill with sheet metal. The plastic work on the filter lid, which involved opening it up about 5/8" in the narrow area over the radiator support and expanding it to accept a 4" hose instead of the original 3" billow, required alot of measuring and two trips to a specialty plastics shop to purchase materials and pricy two part cement. The result is fantastic. It outflows any aftermarket cold air intake and fits the car perfectly. Plus it makes the two ports at the front of the car function as ram air inlets(which Ive always thought was the original intent of the designers). At 100mph, my freind 1badZ has measured 1psi of positive pressure at his throttle body inlet with a similar system on his car. This system really helps my extreme TPI 355 get the air it wants.
My profile doesn't show alot of detail. But if you're interested, I can take some photos and PM them to you.
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