OK so i have been looking at the site and google-ing, and have a few ideas about why my camaro wont start.

The problem:
I washed the car and pressure washed the engine. (nothing extreme just removeing build up where the radiator connects to the intake manifold.)
After the wash I got in the car started it and drove to the store. After the store I got in my car and click.

After turning the key, the fan relay clicks and the fan turns on. I have power in the car. Nothing else clicks that I can hear(besides maybe something by the stearing column). (This might just be the vibration of the fan relay on the fire wall.)

Tried:

I had the battery tested and the starter tested both are running perfect. I connected the starter terminals and the starter spins in the car so I am assuming it is getting power.

Assumptions:
From what I read people say it could be:
The ignition
VATS.
Distributor cap(figured this was obsolete due to the starter not even cranking)

If anyone has any imput anything will help.

(The redlight (I assume is VATS) has not flashed since I have had the car (70k miles to 132k), I just looked under the dash and saw I have an old viper c60(obviously since I am just seeing this now it probably doent work.)

PLEASE HELP!

 

check to see if you have moisture/water inside the distributor cap. If so spray WD-40 inside it and/or blow it out with air. Should start up. If not check to see if your getting spark to the plugs and from the coil the cap. No spark could be a faulty module, coil or possibly the pick up coil in the distributor. Before I bought my 92RS the previous owner had a no start problem and had the whole distributor replaced.

 

Ok had a similar problem with my 89 tpi 350. After all said and done, it was the Ignition`control module. Replaced that, and run better then before. Good luck.

 

Nope still same issue, just tried the recommendations. Just installed a new distributor cap, rotor, icm, coil, and starter solenoid. No improvements. Any other ideas?

 

have you checked for any codes thrown out with a paper clip?

 

"53. High voltage at battery OR High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR Voltage reference error OR Problem at vehicle anti-theft system"

I guess that will teach me to check the code before i start ripping out parts and spending money...

So how do I interpret the code? Try to bypass the vats system?

Or how would I fix the high voltage error?

 

ok well to check the codes you will have to insert a paper pin into the connection slot under your steering wheel that has 6 connection inlets

like this:
[000000]
[000000]

and you will put a paper clip in the top last 2 and you will hear your fan click on when you put the car on standby mode (about to turn on but dont crank) and record what it shows and post here.

there is a thread on it that will explain better what to do here it is:
https://www.thirdgen.org/service-eng...ht-error-codes

that explains it better man

 

No I got the code, my bad should have explained it better. 53 is the code it threw. Which is the high voltage or vats problem code.

Do I chance the vats problem or the high voltage problem.

 

oh ok sorry didnt read good enough,

53)High voltage at battery OR High voltage at exhaust gas recirculation valve OR Voltage reference error OR Problem at vehicle anti-theft system

ok so the vats problem would make it so you cant even crank your engine, is that the case?

for high voltage i would get a meter and

 

Yup vats then bc the motor does crank at all. So do you think my key is bad,( I can pull it out with ease while the car it still running. Should I call gm and get a new one, or bypass vats altogether.

 

I would just bypass it to get it done and over woth the only thing u rsk is making it easier for thieves as stated in other threads but it will also help if you lose your key you won't have to keep wasting money.I plan on doing this actually

 

Thank you everyone! The car finally started! And it is running better than it did before it died. I looked at my service log and saw that the distributor cap and rotor were changed at 90ish thousand miles. The car now has 130k miles. Is that long enough for the engine to build two or three mm's of corrosion on the pins inside the cap? Granted I live in Florida so it's always humid, but it seemed like a short time for such wear.

Anywho vats was successfully bypassed. The forum posts on vats bypassing kind of confused me, for any readers looking at this forum should reference the corvette forum I found when search for more clear alternatives. The guy gave step by step, clear photographed instructions:

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...rial-pics.html

Again thanks a lot guys!

 

Very nice man, congrats