lowridetractor

iTrader: (2)

ok for starters. Engine Stats:

mid 70's 350 block. std. bore .125 dome pistons.
dart iron eagle heads. 64cc chambers 215cc runners (i know too big for a 350)
comp cams 280h cam. 230* at .050 and 480 lift.
victor jr. intake, 3310 carb. 68 on the primary and 74 on the secondary. (jet plate)

the problem:

it wants way too much timing to move. it will idle all day. but without at least 20* of advance it will pop and then take off. and with that much advance it wont start. it kicks back on the starter. make sense?

forgot to add. i tried to tune the carb threw the sticky. but i think this is most likely a timing problem

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

most def timing related, but to be safe pull a plug and see how rich it is/isnt.

ok, now the 20 degrees, this is initial timing and not all in correct? and is your distributor vacuum advance or mechanical? and are you using a timing light to get your figures?

one other problem is your mismatched heads. the heads should be no bigger than 180-185cc for a cam that small. i run 170cc runners with a cam bigger than that.

one thing that people dont say much about here, is the use of a wideband o2... even if you are new to carbs, tuning one would be a breeze with one. i personally use the aem one.

and lastly what do you mean it pops then goes? do you mean you can cruise fine and as soon as you go full throttle, it pops and then takes off? and if it really does like that much timing, just get a timing retard start box.

lowridetractor

iTrader: (2)

plugs looks a bit rich. black on the outside ring, but brownish black on the ceramic part.

20* is initial. with a vacuum advance unplugged. timing is set with a timing light.

i know the cam is too small. but i want to get the timing mostly figured out before i buy a new cam.

wideband is out of budget right now

this video shows what it does. at about .47 seconds.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBX9O...eature=channel

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

170cc head on a 350? kinda small.
Like the OP, I would have 195-210s on it atleast, if you want decent power. Bigger cc heads make more power on a stock cam than a bigger cam with stockish cc heads any day of the week.
With that said, OP you need to check your dizzy and make sure its working properly. It sounds like its not advancing or retarding like it should be.

lowridetractor

iTrader: (2)

that is what i am thinking the vacuum advance is not working properly.
i adjusted it to the softest position with no luck

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

they are vortecs, and i plan to drive it a LOT on the street. and i hate aluminum heads for a street car. all of my cars get pretty warm(210-220)
i plan on 400hp for at the flywheel. and for a car that i only rev to 6k, 210ccs would be worthless.

anyways, hei distributors are cheap, i would spend the 100 bucks and try a new one

lowridetractor

iTrader: (2)

the distributor is next to new. it is a pertonix flame-thrower
buy i may go to the junk yard and yank one to give it a shot.

TTOP350

iTrader: (8)

I don't want to get off topic to far here but aluminum 210s would be waay better than you think (I ran 210s on my old DD/track 350 motor 6k and less).
Nothing wrong with aluminum heads on the street at all. Why don't you like them? They are lighter and help ditch heat. You can run more comp on pump gas (currently i'm 11.5-1).
IMO All factory cars get waaay to hot also (200-240) My cars run 160* all day long no matter what and the lower temps.. make more power.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

i have a set of afr 227s that have warped twice from overheating. i think the main reason is, they were on a 406 but i didnt think to have the steam holes drilled. im thinking the next build will be a 434 and i will take advantage of aluminum heads then. i have never had a problem with iron heads. dad runs the motown 220s on his 13.7:1 comp motor and loves them. sometime in the future i will probably get tired of them and want to go bigger though.

my goal is to touch high 11s with them, ill be using a yank 4k stall to help get me there. and a 150 shot to touch 10s...hopefully. thanks for the bit of info. i always assumed that bigger heads would sacrifice a lot down low to pick up top end.