I looked at other threads and tried to resurrect some with no luck. Ive read symptons and have come up with these results.

I have an 86 Iroc with the LB9 5.0 TPI.

I took it apart to replace the manifold gaskets and replace some components on the injectors (pintle caps, filter, o-rings). I believe the problem lies with the distributor. I took it out and it was put back amateurly, I dont know anything about timing. I tried to put it back just like it was before.

I checked the injectors and they have 12v with the ignition on. I checked and I do have spark. All the fuses are good, the fuel pump is priming, I have fuel pressure but not an exact reading, I have 3/4 tank of gas, and the battery is fully charged. I looked and could not find any vaccum leaks.

I checked the purple/white cable that is in the 4 plug connector from the distributor to the ECM. I got about 50mV with the ignition on.

UPDATE: I checked for proper grounding and could only find one braided ground connected to the firewall. I read in other threads that there should be 3. Well it was not connected to anything except the firewall. I also saw smoke from the + side of my battery terminal and it got very hot.

UPDATE 2: I connected the ground to the block itself. Then I realized that I had messed with the internal gears while trying to put the distributor back in. I removed the dist. and made another turn of the internal cam and oil pump gears. and now the engine is trying to fire up. It sputters misfires and dies. I guess its just a major timing issue now.

The distributor is fully seated and snug enough not to move.

Another problem I ran into is that there is a connector on the back of what I believe is the EGR solenoid. It looks like it missing something.




and is this the wire that sends the signal to the ecm.




Thanks in advance for any useful information.

 

That looks like where the egr solenoid vent filter goes, no biggie.
Get a fuel pressure gauge for a proper reading.

 

Perhaps your distributor is not seated in the correct position. If it was close to where you pulled it, you can try loosening the distributor and turn it slightly left to right while someone is cranking to see if it attempts to fire up any better.

 

I just gave this a try and no luck. I hear a sort of sparking sound from the dizzy area but not even an back or misfire.


Here is a pic of the ground wire that is loose. Does anybody knows what it should gound out?

 

Back of the cylinder head iirc. That alone wouldnt in my known history to ever have an impact on a vehicle starting or not.
But it is supposed to be an engine to chassis ground strap to provide better grounding.
Have you pulled a spark plug and checked for spark at the plug itself?
Also, I know you have 12v at the fuel injectors you said, but have you tested for them actually firing? You can try to spray some starting fluid in the throttle body to see if that helps start the engine momentarily.
I just re-read your first post and missed the part about smoke and hot temperatures coming from your positive battery post. This is a sure sign of a direct 12volt to ground issue that needs to be resolved immediately.

 

I pulled the cylinder 1 spark plug. It was black from running rich before. I ran out of time today but I will test tomorrow for spark at the plugs and try to add a engine block to chasis ground and use some starting fluid. Would it be fine if I connected the firewall braid ground to the valve cover bolt or do I need to put it back on the head?

After messing turning the dist. it sounds like it wants to start I can hear it misfire now. I think the timing is off horribly. Im going to search for a thread on TPI timing.

 

Might have to go to square one, get your engine to top dead center (TDC) and then make sure to remove your distributor cap and have your rotor facing towards the #1 cylinder and then with the cap back on, make sure that the number one spark plug wire is also attached to the post closest or directly aligned with your distributor Rotor.

 

I will try that tomorrow. How can I check to see if Cylinder 1 is top dead center?

 

with the spark plug removed, feel for air to push out while someone is cranking the engine BY HAND. when you start to feel air, look at your harmonic balancer and keep turning till it lines up at 0 degrees. There ya go

 

Also re-check your wires for correct routing

 

[QUOTE=TraviZ;5250202]with the spark plug removed, feel for air to push out while someone is cranking the engine BY HAND. when you start to feel air, look at your harmonic balancer and keep turning till it lines up at 0 degrees. There ya go [/QUOTE

Alright I got cylinder 1 to TDC and made sure the dist. Pointed to cylinder 1. I rechecked my cable routing and verified I have spark at the plugs. I also changed my fuel filter.

I try to start it and it seems to fire up but just won't start up. When I pulled cylinder 1 plug it was dry. I think the injectors might not be spraying. Is there anyway I can check.

 

Like I said in an earlier post, Try seeing if it starts with a dash of starting fluid.

 

R/T-Z28, Don't take any insult from this, but i hope you understand that your want the distributor ROTOR pointing to the cylinder 1 position on the distributor CAP <same general direction as cylinder/piston 1, but you can goof it by being a tooth off>. Any backfires or popping?

 

Yes I understand that. I do get slight misfires when I try to start it. It seems like its just about to start then it will die. I'm about to get some starter fluid and see if I have any luck.

UPDATE: Good news guys after sitting for a few hours after replacing the fuel filter. I tried to start it up and it fired up for about 10 seconds then died. So I grabbed the can or starting fluid and gave it 2 quick shots in the throttle body. I turned it on and it fired up and stayed on. Its stumbling and stuttering from not being tuned properly.

I have no idea would could have kept it from starting before? the old fuel filter looked fairly new. It wouldnt fire up when I tried right after replacing the new one.

 

Do you have those fuel pressure numbers yet?

 

I seen that you did some injector work. Did you do the replacement parts on the injectors, or was it done by a shop. The reason I ask is because if the injectors are leaking they might be responsible for the failure to start at first and the rough running condition you're currently experienceing

 

Silly question, did you install the fuel filter with the flow arrow facing the right direction?

 

Btw did you do the disconnet the MAF quick test to see if it runs ok in limp home mode? You may have to slightly open the throttle to keep it idling for the first few mins.

And by chance did you pully any other plugs to see how they are? Like on the opposing bank?

Do you have any access to a scanner or dataloggin equipment? I would check your coolant temp sensor.

Do you have any work done to the car like 50lb injectors? you said the car wasn't "tuned".

 

UPDATE: Alright guys the car starts now but is still running rough. I when ahead and tried to set the timing as best as I could. After I reconnected the EST ( I think thats what its called) cable and started it again. It ran a little smoother.

I just purchased a timing light and hope to do it right soon.

I looked at the fuel filter again and its right.

All I replaced on the the injectors where the pintle caps, filters, and o-rings.

I don't have a fuel pressure gauge or any scanning equipment yet.

I checked the number 2 plug and it didnt look much different than plug 1.

As far as the car. I believe everything is stock.

 

UPDATE 2:

Now that the car is running I ran into another problem.

I hear what sounds like a huge vaccum leak. I think it might be at the EGR. As soon as I hit the throttle the sound stops.

Should it be best to replace or remove the EGR?

 

Use carb cleaner to spray around the intake and vacuum connections. Idle should move noticeably if you hit a leak

 

I did tried that and it revs up when I spray near the egr or near the back of the upper plenum. Im goin to retighten everything.

The timing light should be in by tomorrow afternoon. Ill post an update as soon as I can set the timing.

 

UPDATE:

Timing Light came in and I set timing the best I could using the guide I found on the site.

I set the base timing to 6* BTDC with the engine warm and as soon as I hook up the tan/black wire near the A/C box. The engine will start but then the timing is retarted real bad it is way off the timing marker I would say somewhere near 15* BTDC.

Then I tried to set it to 0* and it will run a little better but the timing is still too far back.

If I try to rev it up slightly and it will try to stall out.

Also it sounds like there is a huge vaccum leak from the EGR and as soon as I rev it up it goes completely away. Is there some sort of diaphram inside the EGR. I have looked for loose hoses but have found nothing.

 

The EGR is a diaphram. You really need to get those leaks plugged and make sure your EGR valve is working properly if you want this to run right.

 

I agree with fixing your leaks before worrying about timing. Get the motor together right so your not trying to run on a broken leg

 

Alright the leaks are taken care of. The cold start injector, and the back right side of the upper plenum. The car is a little hard to start, and will die if I dont keep giving it gas. It will barely idle by itself. If I disconnect the ESC wire then it will idle by itself. I still cant figure out why the timing gets retarded so much.

UPDATE: Fixed SES Light and pulled the codes 33 and 42. One of them is for the ESC cable being disconnected but the other is MAF High Voltage.

I unplugged the MAF sensor and started the car. It started right up and idled by itself. Its still missing and running slightly rich, but much better overall.

EGR still sounds like a cat 5 hurricane. Should I remove or replace?

I went ahead and ordered a haynes manual too. I wanted a Helms just couldn't find one.

 

Overlooked some valuable info. Sorry about that

 

Did You Test The Ignition Control Module?

 

No. How do I do that.

I checked codes again after reconnecting the battery. Im getting the low and high voltage reading at the maf.

I just ordered new maf and maf burn off relays.

 

Pull Off The Distributor Cap & It's That Black Module Screwed Onto The Distributor Twards The Back With 2 Plugs Sticking Out Of It, Remove Both Screws & Plugs Then Take It Into Autozone & They Will Test It For Free

 

Ill have to get that checked.

UPDATE: Installed the new MAF Power Relay and Burnoff Relay. Previous MAF Codes for low and high voltage are gone now.

The relays fixed the stuttering and stalling in idle. My only problem now is what appears to be an EGR stuck open and constant misfires. The RPMs are steady at idle now, but a little high.

I pulled new codes 22 & 33 for the TPS and EGR.

Next I'm ordering a new EGR and testing the TPS voltage tomorrow.

 

Got the ICM checked and they said it was alright.

 

UPDATE

Finally put the intake back together. The ICM checked out, then the center piece of the distributor showed no continuity so there was no short to ground. Cleaned up the EGR and new gasket. New gasket for the cold start injector which was leaking.

Car runs good now I just need to set the timing again and fix the sensor that feeds the engine temp gauge.

Thanks for the help guys