I've been reading for a while about the possible LG4 head and cam combos to create power under a tight budget. Many people say to port and polish, and I will agree that you can sustain a sub 12 car with stock LG4 heads that have been modified. There are different castings and if you aren't the first owner you want to check your casting number under the valve covers on BOTH HEADS!!!! Your car could have been repaired under warranty and received different heads than that which were originally on the car.

The second thing is that GM changed these cars from a flat tappet to a roller assembly in 1987. So if you were lucky enough to get a 1987 LG4 car with TBI things just became even more confusing. I would recommend for any owner of one of our third gens to A) Run the Vin B) Check the Castings C) pull the intake manifold and heads and look for YOURSELF while making plans (also allows you to see what type of cam assembly you have and check everything for cracks).

So far I have these options for Cams...
1) Stock
2) LT1 (roller style lt1's at least)
3) LT4 hotcam
4) I'm sure I'm forgetting one here so please chime in...

For the Heads...
1) Stock Port and Polish
2) Vortec 305 heads (059?) from a 1996+ truck or van with TBI/Carb
3) Vortec 350 Heads (081 maybe?! I forgot casting numbers on these things) Intakes become limited and harder to find though
4) S/R Torquer heads are out of the budget for this type of project

So Far I have decided on an LT1 Cam from a 1995 Z28, combined with a 96+ Vortec truck head with that truck's stock fitting intake manifold given it is not too high for my already supplied 1604 edelbrock carb with squarebore adapter plate.

I have researched this thoroughly and would like some input on what I could do better with this. The fact is that I have a 305 with a brand new 1406 mounted and mechanical/vacuum distributor as well as the adapter plate. That is what came with it. I know I need a Torque Converter Lockup kit installed for the 700R4 as well as a TV Cable adapter kit.

My plans are...
1) CC to Non CC Carb swap. Keep computer on car but delete smog, A/C, and pretty much all of the engine sensors... pretty much. My thought was this would keep my stock fuel pump supplying the converted carb engine and keep my expense down.
2)Pull the engine and take off the heads and intake and break down to do a cam swap with a LT1 Cam that I already have. Make a setup that will work with the LT1 Cam as the basis of this build.
3)I'm open to a P&P job on my stock heads for the sake of saving money and learning how to P&P for future jobs on my other cars.... But I have access to the 305 Vortec heads (96+) from a carb'd truck. I also have access to Vortec heads from an early 2000 fuel injected 3/4 van (350 style but don't know what intake will work). Any of those options are cost effective for me. Some modification would be possible in any combinations of those.
4) I plan on redoing the rockers and springs as well... pretty much everything except for a piston job.
5) Dual Air intake from a Spectre Low Profile dual snorkel with custom CAI behind headlights (doing the fab myself, writeup to come!)
6) I have a Pair of what looks like brand new Hooker Shorty headers that came with the car. I plan on doing a 3" Y or H, Cat Delete, and whatever muffler and "cat back" (I know I deleted it so rear portion of pipe) would fit it and not be too much expense while maintaining flow.


I think that about covered it. Anybody know if any of that is feasible for the LT1 Camshaft LG4 Build?

I plan on doing a detailed write up of the build, dyno, and track results if I can get someone to confirm. Plenty of pictures and technical "how to's" for each step can be written out. Thanks in advance for any help. I just wish I could help other people have to search less and find more answers.

 

'87 LG4 is supposed to be carbureted with '081 heads. No LG4 F-cars after '87. '88-'92 base V8 was LO3, with swirl-port heads, not '081s. Pre'87 LG4 was '416 heads. Start with the '00 van 250o Vortec 350 heads, if they're not cracked. Nothing else you listed even comes close. Grind the exhaust guide bosses, polish the exhaust ports, have them milled 0.030", use FelPro 1094 head gaskets. '95 LT1 cam is fine, shift point of 6200 when you're racing. You'll want at least a 3.42:1 axle with this cam in a 305. If these heads are cracked, use the '87-'92 '081 heads, mostly found on LB9s.

 

My buddies have been helping me run the numbers and look at the specs and you know you're stuff

Thanks for replying to this so quickly. I procured the cam and the heads. Gaskets (now that I know the # I will have tmr). I already decided on the 3.42 but I'm doing my build in two- two week steps. Rear end comes in a lil later with the driveshaft (and U joint for it) that I just picked up.

Pictures of the build to come!!!

(for those that want to follow the build and maybe copy it I will list most tools needed, in depth for the technical side of a cam swap, head swap, gaskets, TV Bracket, and all other steps that I read vaguely about on this site...but all in one place)

Thanks for your time (maybe some new parts pics tmr)

 

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Hopefully this works. My first attempt at pictures on this site. This is the current condition of the engine bay... and yes I know there's a wrong vacuum line.

 

Ran the rear end code and it turns out I have J42 option aluminum drums. The more desirable option for 1987 I believe. Ran out of time to work on my car but did some more research into head and cam combos.

 

Yuppp that internet muh-chine just saved me a buck or two. I was about to install a horrible combo of head/cam into my car.

Update: Woke up this morning and the decision was made without me to rebuild the 2000 2500 Van so those heads are out. The LT1 is better than nothing if you are on a budget... But I decided to put the foot work in on my heads and do the port and polish. I am also rebuilding the heads entirely and doing a valve job (may have the valve job done for the sake of time)

So the money I'm saving on the head work I'm going to put into a cam. Crane Cams 2032 looks like it is right on the money for my stock heads. The only issue is the $$$$$$$ for those suckers. They are expensive and this is a budget build. So I am taking the idea to someone that does custom grind cams to see if they can tweak it a little since I have a 1987 LG4 (305) that has been converted to non-computer controlled carb (by the last owner).

Here are the specs on the Crane Cams 2032:
Brand: Crane Cams
Product Line: Crane CompuCam Camshafts
Part Type: Camshafts
Cam Style: Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range: 2,000-5,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift: 220
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 214 int./220 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration: 270
Advertised Exhaust Duration: 276
Advertised Duration: 270 int./276 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.452 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.465 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio: 0.452 int./0.465 exh. lift
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112
Intake Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Exhaust Valve Lash: 0.000 in.
Computer Controlled Compatible: Yes
Grind Number: 2032
CARB EO Number: D-225-22

I plan to upgrade int valve to 1.94 (from 1.84) and leave the exh side 1.5 (1.6 is an option though!)

 

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Close up of the bay the way I got it.... More to come in the next few days.

 

Got a lot accomplished between 11AM Monday and 3AM Tuesday. No head or cam work to show you, but to do that some of these steps are very important.

First off... If you are working on a car it needs keys. And my smart self lost them 8 months ago and waited to change the cylinder . To do so you need a puller that can be had for free (deposit and return a harmonic balancer puller or steering wheel specific puller. either works just have the right size).

First look at your wheel (duhhhh )
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Second pull the horn cover off (mine was zip tied on and horn unhooked because someone must've done this before so it came off easily and barely had any adhesive holding it)


Third there are six star type (torx) bolts holding the wheel on. Only three came all the way out before I could pull the wheel off. They went into a baggie and the other three I left in the wheel on the passenger seat because she aint moving
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Then there is a retainer that you need small pliers for (maybe needle nose) because the support arms for the wheel get in the way of large channel locks and such. Pull down on it.


Now take your puller, place it on, and take the nut off while immobilizing the bearing. Pop the housing open and be careful not to lose any little screws down the column. I recommend working with magnetic tip screw drivers and keeping an extending magnet retriever handy that can be found at any sears or auto parts store.

The rest of the key cylinder guide is in the manual and I will post up pics tmr when I change the cylinder.

 

She also got a sponge bath because of the three years of barn dust she collected. A few paint fixes and clear coat and she will be awful purdy for being original paint. Hood is super faded though. Hoping it will buff and clearcoat well but I'm not optimistic.

Anywhoooo here is...

Before


After

 

First off here is a little rant. Harbor Freight is well known to sell cheap import stuff. A set of cheap jacks, hoists, stands ect all sounds great when you are building a budget 305...

BUT. They shorted me essential hardware for the hoist. It does not have the reach to work on our cars... and lets face it. Just get a long reach, low profile, 2ton minimum and do yourself a favor. Pay more now... or when you are fighting the engine. It took three of us manhandling this thing to keep from crushing the master cylinder and everything else close.

But first...

Before
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After


But to get there here are a few tricks...
1. Pull the whole mounts after you give clearance and have pulled the single mounting stud from it. It will give you more room.
2. Pull spark plugs... they will break off if you hit something even lightly
3. Use an adapter plate and/or balancer to hoist it out
4. Pull the wiper motor. Leave the exterior bolts in and loosen the inner stud under the wiper vent cover. Use a screwdriver in the designated holes to pop the cover and a short socket in there. Then use a 10mm deep well 1/4 drive to pop the 3 bolts off the front and out she goes. (shown below)
[IMG][/IMG]

 

5. Do it with the headers off
6. Get the A/C lines on the passenger side below the head and free them as well as the rear vac line.
7. Zip tie all pulled electrical and sensor lines
8. 6 bolts in the trans and 3 on the flywheel for automatic cars. Flywheel goes engine side when pulled (opposite of a manual trans car)
9. Undo the brake line under the passenger header as far down as you can. Do not pull the hose clamp for ease. It will catch later.

If you do work with a cheap hoist do it with the car jacked up, transmission supported to keep it from binding to the engine, and go to one of the wheels with each hoist leg on either side.

Also get mount bolts that are grade 8. Get them MUCH MUCH longer than the trans bolts. Like 3-3.5" minimum. longer is better. You can always slap some cheap washers on there to fill the gap.

 

Got it on the stand and started tearing into her.

went from this...
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to this...


Then worked my way down and in...


No problems that far in.

 

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tore off the stock rocker arms and such...

Then took the heads off following the reverse pattern. Remember that the head bolts can't be reused. Get new ones.



I forgot about the headers. Mine used an allen key. I needed a 5/8th key or 8? metric. I used both a socket and a key. I also broke my dipstick tube trying to get it out of the way from the headers. Oh and of course plugs came out too.

 

this is why if you buy someone else's project that you tear it down and don't just finish their half @$$ed conversion. I believe she would've blown a head gasket.

Oil was new and so was filter. Probably to hide this...
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Oh... And I finished off the night with a late night snack. A 305 makes a good taco holder...

 

going to get the harmonic balancer puller today for the wheel and the camshaft will be out too.

 

UPDATE

Get a Harmonic Balancer Puller set like this one! and a plate compressor! They can be had as a free rental from Advanced Auto or other local store!


Remove Nut (this one you will need a torque wrench to put back on!!!!)


Place Steering Wheel Puller on (this one is one that I already owned but you can use the standard harmonic balancer puller). Insert the correct bolts into the two holes from your puller assortment.


Assembly removed


This is what is now showing.


With Plate Compressor (Place masking tape down before putting compressor on if you wanna be more profesh!)


This is with the cover off if I missed that step!!! (I mocked up some of the pictures. I believe this is popped off and then the plate compressor went on! but you get the idea! This is easy to remove. Use a screwdriver carefully at the access points).

PITA Retainer ring... I used two flat heads, a drywall nail, and a punch to pop this sucker off. No damage. Just take it slow.


Now you need to look at the diagrams...
1)

2)

After retainer plate is off

 

View of cylinder mount screw

NOTE: I did strip this screw putting the turn signal arm bracket back on because you must place the unit in the proper position (up or down) to work the pivot point back in. It is a PITA to tighten and try to keep aligned. Go slow.

 

Meanwhile.... The 305 went to Performance Clinic in Beavercreek, OH for some honing and head work.



She was purdy cruddy looking

 

Curious to what happened? Doing a similar build with my 87.

 

Changed quite a few things about the build along the way. We did a Comp Cam and kept the original heads. Bored it over .030" and pretty much redid everything about the engine.

If I could do it again I would pull it and just put a 350 and keep the original LG4 and 700R4 on a pallet all crated up for resale value.

This build turned into a resto-mod. Restore it for the most part. But liven it up with a port and polish, cam, lifters, all new bearings, intake and exhaust.

I think the original Roch Carb is going back on for the time being. The Edelbrock that the previous owner mounted isn't worth the headache. You have to then mess with fuel delivery and the transmission's torque converter lock up in overdrive.

I poured a lot of money into it and it will be all back together soon (got side tracked by life LOL). I'd just listen to everyone else and do like a 350 or a bored over 400 or something more fun. I'm not even gonna end up keeping it because its an Automatic and I don't want the hassle of swapping it and I have no use for an Automatic "Toy" of a car that just runs out of breath at 4500RPM. :/

Simply put. There are better approaches to this build. I will update this when it is done though! That way for those of you who decide to still do it this way, you can see what it looks like before you dive in.

 

I do have a 350 I'm building that's initially going into it. For now I just need to wake this motor up, it's a real dog. I don't really want to put to much money into the 305 but I came across an lt1 cam that I want to put in. Do u think I'm fine with just swapping the cam/lifters/springs and leaving everything else stock?

 

One of the lobes on the camshaft is a mechanical fuel pump. You can see the pump on the passenger side of the block. When the camshaft rotates it drives the pump and delivers fuel to the carb. I don't think it is the primary fuel pump though. So you will have to look into how it will run without it. In the gas tank is an electric pump that does most of the high pressure delivery from what I understand. A lot of these electric pumps go out on these 25 year old cars and you may not know it because the mechanical one is doing its job. You just lose out on WOT performance. So if you put that cam in and you can't keep your mechanical pump, you may find out your electric one wasn't working. Your car may no longer go. You may still be able to use it. Just find someone that knows these thirdgens realllll well. But don't rely on it working if it is iffyyy.

Lifters and all the valvetrain stuff adds up quick. So if you are looking at a cam, a $200-300 investment in a cam from Comp Cams or a custom grind isn't a bad investment once you realize you are wasting the money if everything doesn't work.

Start with your intake and exhaust. That is where the biggest gains will come from. Headers and a good Y pipe really do liven these up a lot.

Just make sure you find out that every thing works together. Valve clearance was an issue with oversized valves. Lifters and rocker arms were an issue I ran into as well. You don't wanna put a big cam in it and smack around the valvetrain after dumping a bunch of money into a project.

I talked to the people at Performance Clinic, Beavercreek, Ohio. They specialize in GM builds and they had a lot of good info on it. THEY even gave me crap for the rebuild of a 305. And they are the experts. I think it has its own nostalgic cool. But it hurt my bank account more then the HP gains will be worth....

I'm worried if that car after being built and modded will be able to keep up with a nearly stock '90 dodge stealth... I'm afraid its gonna whoop my butt... and your talking 215HP... My stock 97 Camaro dyno's 280HP. More then I will probably reach with this 87 LG4 car.

Oh... one last thing... REAR END GEARS. You probably have 2.73's you can check in your console in the RPO Codes or get under the car and find the rear end code off the axle. You need to improve your gears to apply any new power to the pavement. Gearing is just up to you. A lot of guys stick with 3.73's but honestly if it is a street car I'd stick with 3.42s. It will still be fun. Doing rear end gears is tedious because you have to properly align them and set backlash.

....and now we get into a lot of money. Valvetrain, fuel delivery issues, exhaust, intake, and rear end gears. Any specialty work that a shop needs to do. And now if you make it this far you are as broke as me...

in fact I was building this car for a GF of mine... and it made me too broke to take her out and I got dumped... HAHAHAHAHAHA So planning your budget as a 20 year old guy may be something you need to think about.

I checked out your build and it seems good. Just keep exploring. And remember it is just a car. It will never be the fastest or the coolest. So don't do it to impress other people. Impress yourself and make it your own if you are dumping your money into it. That being said, take my advice and the advice of everyone else with a grain of salt. just my $.02