I recently installed a 212/218 480 lift cam into a 94 tbi with some vortec heads machined for the extra lift, headers and dual exhaust,9.5:1 comp with a .040 quench. It starts easy and idles pretty good for no tuning. After a little tuning it doesn't seem to show the promise of the extra horsepower I was expecting. It feels like a good running stock setup (power wise). It does rev higher but doesn't wind out much quicker than the stock set up. No spark knock at all with up to 36* of advance. The old set up used to spark knock at 15* adv.
Is it possible to be off a cam gear tooth and still run fairly well? Was not degreed when installed. New timing gear set installed, single keyway set. Someone else might think this was a stock motor with a little more pep than theirs. Any easy way to get an idea before I have to pull the timing cover? I mean I can't even spin the wheels. Now come on, not even one wheel. Well maybe if I power brake? And I mean maybe.
Would a compression check give any clue? I did a check on the old setup about 60 days prior to this change and got 150psi across the board like the book said.

Any ideas?

 

Update: I did a compression test and got the same 150psi. I was eye balling the valves and springs so I thought I'd take a rough estimate of the valve lift at the spring retainer. It appeared it was only lifting .350. Of course this is with calipers and not real precise. But still a long was from .480/.490. So I decided to adjust the valves with the motor running. I backed off the 3/4 turn and ended up another 1/2 - 3/4 turn before the lifters made noise. Tightened down until the noise went away and gave it a 1/2 turn. Did another compression test and got 145psi. The pick up was great, rev'd pretty fast and smooth to 4700 or so and has a lot more acceleration. Still no burn out without powerstalling but its an awful lot better. I'm not sure how much more is left in it. But it sure is tempting to want to back off the valve adjustment and tighten them down until they stop making noise with no more than an 1/8 turn. So valve lash that is too tight loses a lot of power.
Why is it when you are adjusting the valves with the motor running you tighten the valve lash and the idle changes? It gets rougher. Any ideas? That is about the 1/2 turn mark. Maybe better to go with 1/4 turn?
Anyway progress was made. I hope this can help someone else out there before doing anything unecessary. Oh and for those who haven't done it, adjusting the valves with the valve covers off doesn't get very much oil down the headers. It does kind of ooze after a while but do 1 side at a time and a minimal mess. Doesn't spray you like some might think, unless you rev it up.