350 out of a 75' El Camino. It has a 100% stock small block chevy 350 partnered up with a stock 350 turbo transmission. I am looking to semi-build this motor. Only looking for about 300-350hp. will be my daily driver so don't need too many crazy things going on under the hood. As i was saying, the motor is completely stock. Has 111,xxx miles on it and was rebuilt with a factory parts. Nothing aftermarket. Compression is normal. Says the 75' El Camino came from the factory with 190hp to the crank.
I am looking to use:
1) Edelbrock Original Torker Intake (RPM Range 2000-5000) (said to have the RPM range as low as idle) (yes, i know it may suck)
2) COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam (RPM Range 600-4600) (Duration at 050 inch Lift - 206 int./212 exh.) (Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio - 0.432 int./0.444 exh.) (Lobe Separation - 110)
3) Hedman Shorty Headers - 2.25" TRUE DUALS (no linking pipes at all)
4) 600cfm Edelbrock Carb (i have an 850cfm but i think that is WAAYYY too much for a small build)
5) OPTION to swap for H.O. aluminum 305 heads raising compression
Can someone give me an estimate hp number thus far?
Additional Details
I hadn't planned on messing with the bottom end due to it already being recently rebuilt. The cam of choice has the almost exact specs of an "up to date" RV cam and it comes with the respective lifters. I hadn't planned on using the 850cfm carb. Maybe a little less if 600cfm is too high. I chose 2.25" true dual diameter to compensate for the lack of the exhaust connecting, and trying to keep it as free flowing as possible.
I am looking to use:
1) Edelbrock Original Torker Intake (RPM Range 2000-5000) (said to have the RPM range as low as idle) (yes, i know it may suck)
2) COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Cam (RPM Range 600-4600) (Duration at 050 inch Lift - 206 int./212 exh.) (Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio - 0.432 int./0.444 exh.) (Lobe Separation - 110)
3) Hedman Shorty Headers - 2.25" TRUE DUALS (no linking pipes at all)
4) 600cfm Edelbrock Carb (i have an 850cfm but i think that is WAAYYY too much for a small build)
5) OPTION to swap for H.O. aluminum 305 heads raising compression
Can someone give me an estimate hp number thus far?
Additional Details
I hadn't planned on messing with the bottom end due to it already being recently rebuilt. The cam of choice has the almost exact specs of an "up to date" RV cam and it comes with the respective lifters. I hadn't planned on using the 850cfm carb. Maybe a little less if 600cfm is too high. I chose 2.25" true dual diameter to compensate for the lack of the exhaust connecting, and trying to keep it as free flowing as possible.
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I'm not seeing any 300 HP in that.
You'll be lucky to crack 250.
The whole "true duals" thing is a COMPLETE waste of everything. Buy a good-quality 3" cat-back and be done with it.
The 305 HO heads were all cast iron. (416 casting in most cases) No such thing as aluminum those.
The Torker intake is total crap. Throw it in the trash and do something else. NO MATTER WHAT the rest of the motor is, that's THE WRONG thing to put on it.
The XE cam might "look like" The RV Cam on paper just from those few specs that are given, but it's NOT. The lobes are a COMPLETELY different shape.
For a DD though, assuming you get a decent intake and don't do the stupid "duals" thing, it should be fine otherwise.
You'll be lucky to crack 250.
The whole "true duals" thing is a COMPLETE waste of everything. Buy a good-quality 3" cat-back and be done with it.
The 305 HO heads were all cast iron. (416 casting in most cases) No such thing as aluminum those.
The Torker intake is total crap. Throw it in the trash and do something else. NO MATTER WHAT the rest of the motor is, that's THE WRONG thing to put on it.
The XE cam might "look like" The RV Cam on paper just from those few specs that are given, but it's NOT. The lobes are a COMPLETELY different shape.
For a DD though, assuming you get a decent intake and don't do the stupid "duals" thing, it should be fine otherwise.
Quote:
You'll be lucky to crack 250.
The whole "true duals" thing is a COMPLETE waste of everything. Buy a good-quality 3" cat-back and be done with it.
The 305 HO heads were all cast iron. (416 casting in most cases) No such thing as aluminum those.
The Torker intake is total crap. Throw it in the trash and do something else. NO MATTER WHAT the rest of the motor is, that's THE WRONG thing to put on it.
The XE cam might "look like" The RV Cam on paper just from those few specs that are given, but it's NOT. The lobes are a COMPLETELY different shape.
For a DD though, assuming you get a decent intake and don't do the stupid "duals" thing, it should be fine otherwise.
cool, appreciate your honesty and the breakdown. through these threads, i was under the impression that the 305 tpi heads were aluminum. im having a hard time finding true vortec heads under $400. i already have the torker laying around so im throwing that on just to do it. this is not a serious drag motor. and the RV cam impostor was suggested by multiple threads all over the web. it comes with the lifters. Here is the set --------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------> http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-230-2/Originally Posted by sofakingdom
I'm not seeing any 300 HP in that.You'll be lucky to crack 250.
The whole "true duals" thing is a COMPLETE waste of everything. Buy a good-quality 3" cat-back and be done with it.
The 305 HO heads were all cast iron. (416 casting in most cases) No such thing as aluminum those.
The Torker intake is total crap. Throw it in the trash and do something else. NO MATTER WHAT the rest of the motor is, that's THE WRONG thing to put on it.
The XE cam might "look like" The RV Cam on paper just from those few specs that are given, but it's NOT. The lobes are a COMPLETELY different shape.
For a DD though, assuming you get a decent intake and don't do the stupid "duals" thing, it should be fine otherwise.
On Probation
No way the '75 350 was over 155 HP unless it was the 'vette optional 350. But doesn't matter. Sofa's correct. Better to use the iron '75 Q-Jet intake manifold than a Torker 2. Cam is okay, but I'd do a Comp 12-235-2 cam. Have the 305 heads cut for the 1.94" intake valves that you should already have. The Hedman headers are a bit big, the matching Y-pipe is a disaster and a mistake. Don't bother with the true duals, especially the kink-bent junk. Single 3" is more than enough. Single 2.5" ( mandrel-bent ) is NO restriction at 260 crankshaft HP, IF you use the right muffler.
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Don't use the Torker. An intake is SO CHEEEEEEEEEEEP, there's no sense whatsoever in spending what this is going to cost you, and "saving" those couple of pennies. You will literally waste more money than an intake will cost, in your first month's gas mileage loss from that old thing.
305 TPI heads are 416 casting in 85 & 85, and 081 casting 87-up. All cast iron. But those aren't "HO" heads, they're TPI heads. No sense in just slinging around a buzzword just for the sake of slinging a buzzword, like the guys on the truck board do about "Z71". "Yeah I got a 96 305, what door handles do I need? It's a Z71"...
If you stick with the smogger motor heads, either the cam you listed, or Atilla's, would be fine. Main thing would be, DON'T "over-cam" it. The rule of thumb there is, there's no such thing as "too much cam", only "not enough motor"; and that L48 is .... not enough motor .... by ANY standard.
305 TPI heads are 416 casting in 85 & 85, and 081 casting 87-up. All cast iron. But those aren't "HO" heads, they're TPI heads. No sense in just slinging around a buzzword just for the sake of slinging a buzzword, like the guys on the truck board do about "Z71". "Yeah I got a 96 305, what door handles do I need? It's a Z71"...
If you stick with the smogger motor heads, either the cam you listed, or Atilla's, would be fine. Main thing would be, DON'T "over-cam" it. The rule of thumb there is, there's no such thing as "too much cam", only "not enough motor"; and that L48 is .... not enough motor .... by ANY standard.
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Quote:
Lmao... This is true. Originally Posted by sofakingdom
No sense in just slinging around a buzzword just for the sake of slinging a buzzword, like the guys on the truck board do about "Z71". "Yeah I got a 96 305, what door handles do I need? It's a Z71"... Not to get anybody side-tracked here, but saw the subject come up and have been contemplating this for a while. My 350 tpi is stock internals (for now), msd coil with msd 8.5 wires & bosh plat plugs @.35in, opened up air intake, some other bolt ons, with headers waiting to be put on. I plan on a rebuild at some point, but probably in the range of 1 1/2-2 years at least. It is my DD, so it wont be a crazy rebuild, just mild (mild cam, lifters, headwork, porting & siamesing plenum & runners, corvette prom, tuning, ect.) Im thinking a minimum of 300hp and shooting for 350hp.
I may even keep the injectors at 22#.
Would a mandrel bent 2.5in exhaust be suffecient, or would a 3in be better?
Again, sorry to "interupt", just wanted to see what you guys thought. Thanks again

On Probation
Quote:
Not to get anybody side-tracked here, but saw the subject come up and have been contemplating this for a while. My 350 tpi is stock internals (for now), msd coil with msd 8.5 wires & bosh plat plugs @.35in, opened up air intake, some other bolt ons, with headers waiting to be put on. I plan on a rebuild at some point, but probably in the range of 1 1/2-2 years at least. It is my DD, so it wont be a crazy rebuild, just mild (mild cam, lifters, headwork, porting & siamesing plenum & runners, corvette prom, tuning, ect.) Im thinking a minimum of 300hp and shooting for 350hp.
I may even keep the injectors at 22#.
Would a mandrel bent 2.5in exhaust be suffecient, or would a 3in be better?
Again, sorry to "interupt", just wanted to see what you guys thought. Thanks again
This is hijacking a thread, called threadjacking. Go with the 3", get some pulleys, do some full-roller 1.6:1 rocker arms.Originally Posted by Black88Z
Lmao... This is true. Not to get anybody side-tracked here, but saw the subject come up and have been contemplating this for a while. My 350 tpi is stock internals (for now), msd coil with msd 8.5 wires & bosh plat plugs @.35in, opened up air intake, some other bolt ons, with headers waiting to be put on. I plan on a rebuild at some point, but probably in the range of 1 1/2-2 years at least. It is my DD, so it wont be a crazy rebuild, just mild (mild cam, lifters, headwork, porting & siamesing plenum & runners, corvette prom, tuning, ect.) Im thinking a minimum of 300hp and shooting for 350hp.
I may even keep the injectors at 22#.
Would a mandrel bent 2.5in exhaust be suffecient, or would a 3in be better?
Again, sorry to "interupt", just wanted to see what you guys thought. Thanks again
i understand. its just something to mess around in. and vortec heads are just so freakin expensive around here. everyone knows their worth and want a couple pretty pennies more than that.
so what would this get me:
1) 96+ 350 vortec heads
2) that cam i linked to above
3) performer intake thats drilled to the vortec head bolt pattern
4) 600cfm carb
5) shorty headers
so what would this get me:
1) 96+ 350 vortec heads
2) that cam i linked to above
3) performer intake thats drilled to the vortec head bolt pattern
4) 600cfm carb
5) shorty headers
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3) performer intake thats drilled to the vortec head bolt pattern
NO!!!!3) performer intake thats drilled to the vortec head bolt pattern
The ports on Vortec heads are moved about ¼" from where they were on older heads; specifically, UPWARDS, toward the valve cover flange, giving a much straighter shot into the cyl. That's where their superior intake flow comes from. Alot of older intakes won't even COVER those ports, LET ALONE match to them. Now considering that the ONE PRIMARY advantage to those heads is their intake port design, I'd like to hear you explain to yourself until you believe it, how it's a good idea to spend money to get that great design, then WIPE IT ALL OUT with intake ports that mismatch.
Get the right intake in the first place, no matter what heads you use, but ESPECIALLY if you change to those.
I think for about 99% of all the people on this board, a good-quality single 3" catback should do just fine. After all... look underneath a LS1 car sometime and tell us what GM put there; and HOW MUCH power do those guys get with that still there?? Until you get up PAST that range, it's not The Restriction, and therefore changing it will accomplish nothing.
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Step #1 Holley carb. Step #2 Custom grind from CompCams. Step #3 better flowing heads, replace or port and polish, it's up to you. Step #4 3" true dual X-pipe out the back of the car. Step #5 enjoy 300 possibly more hp.

