I have a 92 Z28 that I got fairly recently. I am planning on doing a mild build up to around 400 rwhp. I want to get her in tip top shape before I doing anything. I am replacing the driveshaft and differential cover because they are rusted to ****. Everything else is fine besides the muffler because the previous owner had done a little restoration work on the undercarriage. I looked on Hawk's an the aluminum driveshaft is $150 and the steel is $25. I do anything to my car half @$$ed but I don't really NEED the aluminum one. My question:How much weight will I really save with the aluminum driveshaft and is it really worth it? $125 difference is enough to matter so is there any other benefit to the aluminum one? Thanks in advance guys.

 

Someone correct me if im wrong but what you have on your z28 is an aluminum driveshaft, there is no point in downgrading if ou have an upgrade, if the rust bothers you that much and its not eating holes, I would just remove it and sand it down...and you can paint it your choice of color, same for our diff cover...IMO

 

The aluminum weighs a bit less (1-2 lbs) but its main benefit is the balance. The aluminum driveshafts are much more balanced and reduce vibrations at higher speeds (if you have any).

$150 is a lot of money in my opinion. I paid $20 for a perfectly good you at the pick-a-part for my '02 way back when.

4th gen aluminum - larger diameter and thinner walls. There's a picture on here of a 4th gen aluminum driveshaft that twisted on itself under almost no acceleration.
3rd gen aluminum - smaller diameter and thicker walls. There is one in the for sale section for $70 right now.

 

I run a 4th Gen aluminum drive shaft I havnt had had no problems. Whoever twisted that thing must have some other issues goin on.

 

If his Z28 is stock dont he have an aluminum drive shaft???

 

Most likely not.

 

the weight diff is closer to 6lbs (not 1 or 2lbs)

just so ya know

 

Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but only the 1LE thirdgens got the aluminum driveshaft, all of the LT1 fourth gens got the same aluminum driveshaft that the 1LE cars had and the LS1 cars got the larger diameter aluminum driveshaft.

 

Im not too sure but mine came off a LS1 and it is larger in diameter

 

pretty sure Aluminum doesn't rust.

 

....& not just the 1LE f-bodies had aloominum drive shafts.Depending on the options other models did too.

 

No, but it can still corrode.

 

Good to know.

Thanks.

 

i bought a wrecked '88 gta with an aluminum shaft in it... not sure if it was stock though.
i have a friend that broke a '98 aluminum shaft going to 2nd gear at the dragstrip. driveshaft broke, and slammed into the floorboard a few times until it set off the airbags. destroyed the dashboard, steering wheel, windshield, and a few other things.

 

^^ that's why you get a loop and one hell of a shaft lol. Got a 3.5" PST from MWC for a damn good price, and i won't worry about breaking it!

 

Thats intesnse, I dont think a stock 305 or 350 should worry about that tho

 

But he said it was rusted that why i think it's it's steel. Could always to the magnet test.

 

Nope. Not my '95 Z28 convertible, pure stock.

 

Yeah sorry I goofed on that. The LT1 cars had the steel driveshaft from the factory but got the 1LE replacement under a TSB.

 

my gta came stock with a aluminum driveshaft and its very light compared to a steel third gen driveshaft...

 

Big power, 6speed and slicks = dead LS aluminum driveshaft.
I have seen many of them take a dump, in person.

 

What about the 1LE?

 

deffinately worth the upgrade. try to stick with a thirdgen one if you can. not just 1le cars came with it. and I have never seen an lt1 car with an aluminum shaft that wasnt aftermarket myself.

 

RPO codes will show which cars came with an aluminum driveshaft... my first two irocs and my gta all came stock with an aluminum driveshaft, and aluminum rear brake drums. Not only does the aluminum driveshafts save weight, they're balanced better (for speed) but because they're lighter your car/drivetrain will spool up quicker. It is a noticeable 'seat of the pants' difference when you swap in an aluminum after running a steel.

So if your building a car and you have the option, I'd say yes go for it... but if money is an issue then save it for a later date and put that money towards something better like gearing or headers. Good luck!

 

I haven't seen any fail but i'm sure they will also.
I've seen the big aftermarket steel shafts break also.

 

So is there any truth to the 1LE shaft walls being thicker? Everyone who says so says it in a "I believe so" context.

 

been using a 4th gen aluminum shaft in my 89 for a couple years, no problems yet.

 

I have never sonic checked either shaft. I do know that 5spd chevy trucks have a very nasty problem on the dyno with blowing up..

 

I was thinking of my 2002 v6 steel driveshaft vs an ls1 aluminum driveshaft. There was no weight difference that I could tell by holding it.

My mistake.

 

I didn't even get one run down the track with a LS aluminum driveshaft

My L1E driveshaft that came in my GTA stock handled it no problem tell my torque arm broke lol.

 

I run this 3.5" Dana-spicer shaft I got from Lingenfelter.
All my other cars have 3rdgen aluminum shafts.

 

I'm running an Inland Empire Aluminum driveshaft in both my 87 and 91 and also running alum driveshaft in my GT. Have had them for several years with no issues. I'd say stick with the aluminum shafts....unless you have the money to drop on a carbon fiber shaft and wanted to inform us on the quality etc.

 

Never noticed any difference with alum driveshafts except the wallet was lighter. Wall thickness has more to do with strenth than what material
Always run a loop if you have a sticky tire and are running it hard.

 

I noticed a definite difference above 100mph. The steel shaft had a noticable harmonic at higher speeds that was a little unsettling. The aluminum shaft is quiet and smooth as fast as I want to go. Since I built my car more for speed and cornering than for the 1/4mi, this was of real benefit to me.