HOWS IT GOING I GOT A 1989 IROC Z 5.7 TPI T TOP I HAVE A DENT IN MY OIL PAN AND I AM TRYING TO GET IT OUT I HAVE IT UNBOLTED I HAVE MY STARTER OFF AND MY EXAUHST OFF AND I HAVE TOOK OUT MY MOTTOR MOUNT BOLTS AND RAISED THE ENGINE SLIGHTLY BUT I STILL CANT SEEM TO GET ENOUGH CLEARENCE TO GET THE OIL PAN OUT IT IS HITTING THE TORQUE CONVERTER SO IF ANYONE CAN HELP PLEASE DO .. ?

 

YOU CAN TRY RAISING JUST ONE SIDE OF THE ENGINE, AND/OR YOU CAN TRY ROTATING THE ENGINE SO THE PAN WILL CLEAR THE CRANKSHAFT COUNTER WEIGHTS.

BE CAREFUL WHEN RAISING THE ENGINE SO THAT YOU DON'T DAMAGE THE DISTRIBUTOR BY BASHING IT INTO THE FIREWALL.

 

I KNOW THATS WHAT IM SCARED OF AND IM THINKING ABOUT JACKING IT UP FROM THE HEADERS..

 

My experience with removing pans on 3rd gens without removing the trans and flywheel/flexplate has not been good. 'Nuf said.

How big a dent and where? You might be in for more work than it's worth.

 

the dents towards the front of the car and its bad enough were the crank taps it when its running

 

You are better off removing your hood and the dizzy which will give you more than enough room to raise it.. I would recommend using a Cherry Picker ~VS~ a floor jack.. You can put a chain in various spots which will be safer in the long run.

 

lol im not a very good mechanic what do u mean about the dizzy ? and should i reposition the distributor?

 

He is saying to remove the "Distributor"...

Dizzy = Distributor :-) ...



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I'm sure I'll be called an idiot or worse, but this topic never ceases to amaze me. In the amount of it takes to try to get the pan out from under the car, which includes all the bitching time and the time to come here and ask questions, the entire engine could be out of the car. The pan could then be easily removed, all while standing comfortably. Some will say that they don't want to go through the hassles of pulling the engine, but they'll lay on their backs working over head for hours trying to get the pan out. This does not make sense to me.

 

The easy way is to pull the motor.

The next way is to hang the motor as high as you can and drop the K-member using threaded rod, washers and nuts inplace of the bolts.

You can also try this. With the pan bolted inplace try taping both sides down low with a dead blow hammer. I have fixed a few 383s for people doing that. It does depend on how bad the dent its tho.

It can also be that the oil baffle spotwelds have broke loose and are hitting.

 

i have also removed the pan with the motor in the car it can be done its not hard but very time consuming, you have to make sure you line everything back up make sure tbhe gaskets are in place and not pinched. i have also pulled the motor to work on it and was back driving the next morning, not having too much mech skills i would suggest to you to mark the distributor off then pull it leave the cap and plug wires on so its easier. use a cherry picker, dont use a floor jack. or pull the motor and make sure its all correct before you reinstall it.


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I removed the pan in the car once.....never again. But, it can be done.

Take the distributor our and make sure you mark where it goes. Next lift the motor as high as you can and then snake the pan out the back. It is a pain but can be done.

 

the reason for me asking on here is i do not have a cherry picker at the moment so i was looking for a alternative to try .. but in the end im probably still gonna need a cherry picker