Fronzizzle

Well, finally got all of the wiring done and attempted to start my car with my new setup (383, HSR, '730 ECM & wiring harness). Ran into a few problems...

First (and second, third, fourth...), I didn't have the distributor lined up correctly. I fought with this all day. Between trying to find TDC, getting the oil pump and the distributor to line up correctly and getting the firing order right, I never did get this straightened out. There were a few times I thought I had it, but the car wouldn't start or would start with the gas held down and would stall as soon as I let off the pedal. Will start over tomorrow.

Because I couldn't get the timing/ignition right, I couldn't get the car started without giving it constant gas. At one point, we did get it going but it was running rough and I can only imagine it was because the timing was so far off.

I also found that my TPS was off, I adjusted using the procedure found on this website so that should be okay for now - once I get the car running and properly set the timing, I'll check/adjust it again.

I also checked fuel pressure - it's steady at 52 PSI. Is this too much for the Holley setup (intake, throttle body and fuel rail)? It has an adjustable regulator that's really hard to get to, I'd rather leave it but the info I found says that proper operating range is less (sorry, don't remember what the proper range is). I have 30 lb. injectors if that makes a difference?

Anyway, is it safe to assume that the ECM is okay since I did get the car running (although had to be on the gas)? I think I'll be okay once I get the distributor set correctly, just wondering if there is anything else to check.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

The first thing you need to do is ensure the dizzy is in correctly. Without that, you will just be chasing your tail. You will now need to start over with the engine at TDC and then install the dizzy. The fuel pressure seems Ok to start but it will need to be dialed in on a dyno once it is running.

zraffz

It shouldn't be hard to get your distributor right or find TDC. Make a piston stop and mark both ends of the balancer then find the center. It doesn't really matter how your distributor seats on your oil pump as long as you are at TDC and start your number 1 plug in line with the rotor (although for ease of messing with it again it's smart to point to the #1 cylinder).


Edit:
I made my own piston stop using an old spark plug and two nuts and a threaded rod. knock the porcelain out, tap the inside of the plug to the size of the rod, file the end of the threads off the rod to prevent damaging the piston/cylinder wall, thread it in, tighten it in place with the nuts and screw the plug in.

Fronzizzle

Well, I ran through the entire process from start to finish again and I ended up in the exact same location as last night. So I think I have that part down.

However...I wanted to make sure I had the firing order correct, so I started checking my wires. I found that I had two spark plug wires that were not making connection - I made my own MSD wires with the duel crimp ends and apparently didn't do something correctly. I need to replace those wires before going any further.

One question I do have is, according to MSD the wires should have 40-50 ohms of resistance per foot. I tested all 8 of my wires, none were quite that high. Most were pretty close, but a couple were low - and one was really low. I think it was about 2 ft. long but the resistance reading I was getting was less than 1 ohm. I assume this means that it is also not put together correctly?

Thinking about starting over with the wires. Are the duel crimp ends the best way to go, or should I stick with the old style?

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

It has been a long time since I made my own set of wires from MSD but I do remember it being very easy to crimp and cut them if you have the correct tools.
The MSD crimping block goes in a vise and will double crimp the terminal on the wire as you tighten the vise up. Did you use the proper tool?

Fronzizzle

Well...the crimp on the insulation was fine. But I had never used the dual crimp type before (where there is a separate area to crimp the conductor). Apparently, I crimped this part way too tight and cut into the conductor. Oops!

Received my new wire & ends yesterday, spent about 1.5 hours remaking the wires, checking the connections and testing the resistance. All are good now. Not sure if this was my only problem, but was definitely a problem. Going to install the wires tonight and give it another go.

Damon

Fuel pressure on those era engines should be about 43 PSI to get the rated fuel flow from the injectors. Later model systems (like Vortec motors) ran at 58 PSI, if I recall correctly, but in the TPI era the line pressure was 43 PSI with no vacuum to the regulator.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

What chip tune you using on this motor? Whats the specs on the motor? IT may not want to start easy and stay running if its not close on the chip tune. Stock may not cut it.

Fronzizzle

I actually have two chips - I had a member on the board program me one that he's done for other 383 engines, that's the one I'm running right now. I also have a chip from PCM For Less, I may try that one after I get the car running and compare the two. But not stock.

Replaced the wires, car is definitely better but still doesn't like to stay idling. You can get it started now and if you keep your foot on the gas (gently), it runs and sounds good, seems to have pretty good throttle response. But as soon as you let off the gas, it starts sputtering and dies. I still don't think the timing is where it needs to be. The problem is, I only have about 30-45 minutes to work on it each evening - I think if I could spend a couple of hours straight on it, I'd get it dialed in.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well keep playing with it. It may be a tune issue that keeps it from idling on its own. But verify timing. Need someone to check timing for you while you keep car idling

Is the cam pretty big? It may need more timing. My latest 400 was doin this. Would not start or idle with est disconnected but tuned wasnt 100% optimized yet. With more advance it idled fine and started better but with speed density you need to be close with the tune to have a chance at being stable at idle and start easy. My previous chip for same motor with smaller heads and cam would not run the new setup