Anyone running the either the 15-244 or 15-246 series of Canton Road race oil pans? If so, how's the clearance between the bottom of the front of the pan and the center link? Have any pics?

I took measurements of the distance between the pan rail surface on the block and the top of the CL and it's roughly 4.5". With my 15-246T pan resting on a spare block (no gasket), the distance from the pan rail to the bottom of the pan in the area the CL would be is close to 4.5". Seems like this would interfere easily especially after adding a gasket.

Thanks!

 

Very few pans hang lower than stock at the front of the pan. It only needs to be deep enough to clear the crankshaft at the front. Differences are always in the sump area which is nowhere near the centerlink. The 15-246 is designed for third gens. The 15-244 is designed for second gens.

The 15-246 requires a mini starter but Canton doesn't say anything about crossmember or steering link changes.

 

Just tried measurements between the 15-246T and a stock pan from an L03 motor (both laying on the garage floor). Stock 3.75", 15-246T 4.25". Seems like it would be close with a gasket added.

Is reversing the center link a viable solution "just in case" provided I got an alignment? Or is it a bad idea alignment or not?

 

By centerlink do you mean engine k member? I ran canton road race for 1 pc rear main l98 and stock kmember. No clearance issues. Had Lt1 starter which is a mini starter and hooker longtubes. No issues

Now have canton drag race pan. No issues either with thick gasket. The front edge of pan sump is about an inch or so from touching k member back side. The front of pan still has good clearance to kmember.

 

Good to know on the k-member clearance.

What I'm looking for though is how well it clears the center link for the steering as it seems it may end up being quite close for me.

 

I have my centerlink reversed because I use a BBC which is longer than a SBC and have the engine lowered so I needed the extra room. It works for me because I don't have to deal with a lot of turns. Reversing the centerlink screws up the Ackerman angles.

 

Oh my pans never came close to that. Thats way in front of the pan on my 89 irocz.

 

Which pans specifically? Some of the canton pans are angled front to back while some seem to be flat. Mine is flat. If your pan is flat and no where close to the center link, then maybe my center link is too high or too far back (perhaps as a result of accident damage I'm not aware of)

 

It should have been the 15-244T road race for 1 pc rear makn blocks in 82-92 fbodies.

One i have now on my dart block is the 13-080m i believe. 80-85 blocks with right hand dipstick which is what the dart shp is modeled after. Both pans fit fine. Stock kmember and clamshells with poly bushing mounts

 

I wanted to say that but wasn't sure. If the centerlink is under the pan, it can't be under very much. My BBC is another issue and I also have the engine pushed back.

 

Do all thirdgens have same steering components?

 

Here's how my CL sits into relation to my existing oil pan. The gap between the top of the CL and the bottom of the pan is about 5/8". (Sorry for the upside down pic, took it w/ an iPhone)