MMroc86

When draining my oil to remove water should I run the car after each drain? For how long? change the filter too? OR should I just leave the plug off the whole time and let the oil run straight through? I plan on draining/filling it twice initially to see if that gets the job done.

I did a & found a ton of topics on water in oil. It was all very helpful but the info I am requestin above was never made very clear. Below is an explanation of what I think caused my problem!

THANKS

Okay heres the deal, I've got water mixed in with my oil. I pulled the dipstick & theres a white milky goop on it. I know the most common way for this to happen is a bad head gasket/intake manifold gasket.. BUT

My situation is a unique one. I'd been leaking oil from my oil plug(Oil pan) & i'd just been filling it with oil every otherday. Well I finally had time to replace the oil plug last nite & thats when I noticed the water.

Heres the thing, the last time I checked it there was no water in it!(12/15/2012) But on that very day we had some really bad rain and I'm thinking water sneaked in through the bad oil plug.. Thoughts?

BTW this is on my wifes car not mine. (92 Camaro 305 carb)

soarestransam

Do a pressure test to see if pressure drops if so then u have a leak somewhere check all external sources first if u dont find any then u have internal leak somewhere i did this on my 89 withthe stock l98 an found it was a internal leak there was a break in the head gasket causing the seal to let go an give me milky oil

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Pure water, or coolant?

If it's coolant, just changing the oil won't get it; you need to use one of the engine flush compounds that dissolves the sludge that results from that mix.

The oil plug is at the bottom of the motor. If it leaks, oil is going to leak OUT, not water IN, unless the car is in deep enough water that the level of the water OUTSIDE is higher than the level of the oil INSIDE. Therefore you can leave that whole idea out of the picture, and instead, concentrate on finding the coolant/crankcase fluid exchange location. Most likely NOT a head gasket, since oil and water never are next to each other in the Chevy small block; more likely, intake manifold gasket.

MMroc86

It's pure water. Upon further investigation I found a pool of oil near the intake manifold on the passenger side. I will post a video of it soon. Looks to me like its the intake manifold gasket...

Now onto my original question, when draining the oil should I run the engine after each time I refill? put the plug on or not? change filter each time?

Thanks

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Are you saying your cooling system only has water in it, instead of coolant?

MMroc86

As far as I know yes. We bought it about 8 months ago & do not remember putting any coolant in it.

If it was coolant it'd be greenish right? This stuff was milky looking on the tip of the dipstick & higher up on the dipstick it was clearly pure water.

MMroc86

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=muRlj...ature=youtu.be

Heres a vid of the pool of oil.

Thoughts?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Ouch...

Oh well, sounds like a perfect opportunity to fix that.

If you're quite sure there's nothing in the oil but water, then running the car for a little while to get it fully warmed up, then shutting it off and IMMEDIATELY draining it, should get nearly all of it out of there. THen normal driving, as long as it stays running for a half-hour or more, will evaporate the rest of it out fairly soon.

When you repair the intake manifold leaks, drain the block. The plugs are at the very bottom of the block, right above the oil pan rail, exactly halfway from front to rear. The pass side drain plug is cleverly disguised as a knock sensor. I'd suggest replacing the driver's side one with brass (¼" NPT, readily available at HD and such) so it's less of a fight in the future. Use 4 wraps of Teflon tape on each; tighten the knock sensor to about 15 ft-lbs, NO MORE, since over-tightening it makes it SUPER sensitive and will cause the ECM to pull timing out like crazy for no particular reason.

And of course, put back in about a 60/40 mix of distilled (NOT tap) water and AF.

MMroc86

The carb is no longer fuel injected, its carbureted. Is there anything else I should know about? I have never done this before. Is there a certain amount of torque I need to put on the bolts when putting them back on? Any way in particular to put the gasket on the intake? Special tools I may need?

Any tips or tricks to help me avoid pitfalls are greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

92 camaro rs 305 Carb'd not the car in my sig.... This ones my womans.

MMroc86

Alright so I'm getting ready to start removing the intake. I'm going to document it well with pics & video. So that if I make a mistake you guys can help get it done right. Heres a pic of how it looks right now, minus the air cleaner....



Quick question, should I drain all the oil from the pan & coolant from the radiator first?

Any tips/tricks are greatly appreciated this will be my first time tackling this.

Thanks

MMroc86

Thats what we found in the lifter vally, a crap load of water & coolant..... to confirm, this is caused by the faulty intake gasket right? Not a head gasket?

To remedy this we must first replace the intake gasket & then drain oil, let car reach operating temp, drain oil, run car about 1/2 hr to evaporate remaining water in oil.... Please confirm, & the distributor was a pain in the *** to take out, am I going to have issues with the timing now?

scoflaw

iTrader: (2)

Do your pressure check now. Could be a head gasket or cracked block

Get yourself a couple of those rubber test ball plugs, with the shrader valve. Stuff them into your water ports, on the heads, apply air to seal, and put the pressure tester to your radiator cap.

MMroc86

Alright so what am I looking to happen when I do the pressure check? Is there a certain amount of pressure that it will be at that will tell me its a head gasket/cracked block?

scoflaw

iTrader: (2)

Look to see if it holds pressure, 15 psi. If it holds it was your intake gasket.

If not, look and listen, where it,s leaking from

MMroc86

Sounds easy enough, can I get the test ball plugs from autozone/o'reiley? & how about the pressure tester?

Thanks

I went & picked up the new gasket plus sealant. But I'm calling it a night. We've been at it since around 7a & it is now 7p

EDIT:Oh and whats the best way to clean the old silicone & other junk off the intake/engine block?

Savage388

Just did mine and it sounds like the exact problem, although I caught mine before too much water got in the oil. You have to get the head surface down to bare metal almost, so I got a small die grinder with a scotch brite pad on it and cleaned it off. if you have pieces of gasket there or heavy buildup pick up a gasket scraper from a hardware store or an auto parts store and do that first. Remember to stuff some rags in the water ports and intake ports first though.

MMroc86

Alright so I called the pepboys & they never heard of this, neither has autozone or oreily. Where the heck can I get this? I'd really like to get this done, so that I don't have to redo this crap if it turns out to be the damn head gasket.

scoflaw

iTrader: (2)

The test ball is a plumbing supply item. Your going to have to get creative to check it like this, seeing every water outlet will have to be plugged.

What might be easier for you, is to do the intake gasket repair, new gaskets, bolt it down. Tighten up all the hoses, skip the water and dizzy for now, then pressureize the water system, through the radiator cap to see if it holds pressure, and go from there.

MMroc86

Alright, so I fianlly got all this put back together & now it won't start.

I put the distributor cap pointing in the same direction as when I took it off, so I don't think its timing, & even if it is would'nt it atleast start & just run really bad?

I checked for spark, & I am getting it. I checked for fuel to the carb & I am getting it. What else can cause a carb'd car not start to start?

Thoughts?

BTW it blows out a big cloud of black smoke on occasion when attempting to get it to start.

The car was running fine with no problems before this.

tzim350HO

Its probably flooded by now. Pull the plugs and crank the motor over with the plugs out itll force the water if you let any in the cylinders when changing the gasket. Unplug the coil first!

MMroc86

Alright I'l give that a shot, I'll let you know how it goes afterwards.

Now do I just give the key a quick turn? Or do I hold for a while?

Thanks

tzim350HO

You will have to hold it a few. Not ten minutes or anything. Just a good amount of time to blow the water out. Be sure to clean the plugs also. Id bet they are gonna be soaked

MMroc86

I just pulled out plug #2 & its dry, I also pulled out #1 & its dry.... I'll keep going....

MMroc86

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...-got-fuel.html

Plug # 6 had moisture on it. I started a new thread about this at the above link...

Thanks!

tzim350HO

maybe you arent getting fuel like originally thought

RSValor91

Hey Guys!!! I have the same problem but, now I allready change all gaskets, oil and filters, the problem is that now everytime that change Neutral to Drive it feels like the tranny was kicking, and it´s so hard to get from 1st gear to 2nd gear a lot of revolutions of my engine, what could this be? is this a TPS sensor problem, IAC problem, is this relationated with the coolant in my engine, could be posible that the coolant pass to the tranny? Sorry for my english!!!!