Hey guys,

I'm having a problem with the car turning off after it has been driving for 10-15 mins. This has been happening on and off for a few months now..It would do it once or twice a month and it will go a while without incident and start doing it again. Only now it is doing it on a regular basis and it is doing it while I am driving in traffic! just turns off and check engine light comes on..I coast off to the side of the road and I try to turn it on again and I get nothing.. doesn't even try to crank over..It takes an hour sometimes two hours to get it started again..I guess once it cools down. I took it to the shop and the mechanic changed the ignition switch in the steering column..I picked it up and drove it home..for about 10 miles and it turned off while I was driving but a second later it turned right back on! and the SES light came on again...any ideas what is going on with this thing??? I would really appreciate any help I can get...thanks all!

BTW..when the mechanic had it in the shop he said the check engine light was for the knock sensor...but said that the knock sensor was ok..if this makes any difference.

 

might be the maf sensor gooding bad or iac sensor . hope this will help.

 

Thanks bro...I will look into it.

 

There could be several things causing it to die, intermittent issues are the worst to find. It could be the icm, pickup coil , wiring issue from the ECM to the icm, or bad ECM or ECM ground

 

Thanks Brian. Yeah that's what I'm afraid of. Could be several things!

 

Serge I have a 165 ECM I loaned a guy in Texas if he doesn't buy it you would be more than welcome to use it for a while to see if that cures your problem.

 

This is going to sound stupid, but have you checked how tight your battery termianl connections are or if they are loose or corroded? One time while driving my camaro when from awesome power to stalling every time i got into the gas, opened the hood, positive terminal had came lose. Similary my MAF sensors Clip broke (thing that pokes straight forward out of the left side of the plenum) and every time I went over a bumpy road my rpms would freak out. Also had a problem with a worn coil. The plastic had warn down so much from being put on and taken off that it would grip the connectors well enough to create good spark.

Idk if any of this helps.

 

Brian thanks a lot buddy..I really appreciate that! I do have a spare here and I am going to swap them today or tomorrow...and Mayt13 thanks for the info! I checked the battery connections and they seem fine...but I will go check out the MAF sensor clip.

 

I think the next step would be looking at putting in a new icm and pickup coil. I hate to tell you to throw parts at it though.

 

Yeah I hear ya Brian...really don't have a choice right now though..its a daily driver at the moment...I think I have a spare ICM here as well form the 305 swap...I'll be throwing that in as well.

 

make sure you install heat sink compound if you swap it out.

http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2102858

 

Ok will do..thanks Brian!

 

Brain will a bad ICM set off the SES light???

 

Ok guys I have replaced the coil pack and the ICM..but for some reason I get a feeling it is fuel related...after I changed these things I took it for a ride and as I was going down the road after driving it for about 10 minutes it cut off and I had my foot on the gas and it came right back on..but with the SES light on...drove fine the rest of the way home. But the way it felt when it turned off was almost like it stopped getting fuel or something...I dunno I'm fresh out of ideas. The car runs fine when its cold...only after it warms up does this thing happen.

 

sorry I didn't see the posts, have you ohmed the injectors when warm ?

 

Have not done that yet Brian..I will try that tomorrow. You think it could be a bad injector?

 

Sounds heat related if a injector is shorting out it will shut off the injector driver in the computer.

 

Ok Brian I'll try that tomorrow and let you know how it goes...thanks.

 

I had a fuel pump do that to me. After much aggravation, when my engine quit again I put a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail valve and when I tried to crank it....no FP.

OBTW, there should be a oil pressure switch along with the oil sending unit near the distributor and the top of bell housing. Make sure the rubber cap with two wires is secure with a good connection on the pressure switch.

 

I had this issue once, replaced all kinds of things. Do you have a fuel pressure tester? Mine ended up haveing a bent diaphram in the regulator, the pressure would get to high and the injectors could not open....car would die. Just a thought, if you cant find anything else.