Does anyone know for a fact on what oil pan can fit really nice with the 3rd gen camaro chassis, longtube headers and cleared for a 383 stroker with 5.7" rods and doesn't cost more than $160? I am thinking of a moroso. I'm just not exactly sure which one to get. It doesn't need to be anything larger than a 6qt pan. Thanks guys

 

Your stock 305 one will work fine.

 

When you clearance the pan rail,the trick we found is the thickness of a standard paper clip wire is just about right.Don't go nuts there,remember for all the material your remove there is less of a base for the pan gasket to seal.

 

Yup...

Although, I find it easier to use something flexible, that can sort of wrap around things; I like to use a wire tie.

 

Stock factory 305 pan on mine....no issues

 

These have some nice options,

http://www.jegs.com/p/JEGS-Performan...26994/10002/-1

 

I have a canton road race pan on mine. Its worth every penny but is way over your limit.
Your stock pan will work fine unless you have a high volume oil pump and plan on high rpm or high G turns/braking.

 

Yeah Canton does build good stuff.Agree about high volume pumps too.

The China stuff often doesn't fit well and leaks.Wither it has Summit's name on it or anyone else's.
I suggest to buy a name brand like Hamburger or Canton or use real OEM pans.

 

The Jegs pans I posted are B&B pans. Had one on my big block in the camaro, and got one for the big block in the bel air now. Fits great.


High volume pumps have no business in a V8 chevy anyway.

Canton pans are great too, but over the ops budget as stated above.

 

Hey thanks so much! I have one more question. If I am using main studs instead of bolts should they be compatible for a windage screen if I purchase that jegs street/strip oil pan? It says it comes with one but I just want to double check. I thought the windage screen was connected to the jegs oil pan and doesn't get connected to the main studs.. thanks

 

Windage tray is built in. You will want studs for use without windage tray.

 

Thanks so much

 

You can/should still run a good stud mounted windage tray. The ones built into the pans kinda work but not as well a properly fitted tray thats close to the crank.
I have the on in the pan and a stud mounted one thats a lot closer to the crank/rods.

 

Will this work?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mo...2/applications

The block is one piece. I just want to find an oil pan that will fit the camaro for a one piece block but I can't find anything except canton and I don't have the money for that. I want to run a high volume

 

Go to "Rockauto.com" and search for an oil pan for a 1988 Firebird. They're all one piece or should be and run about $50.00.

 

I am in a similar pinch, looking for a one piece seal pan but normal pump. was looking at the CTR-15-010t to put in my 88 iroc-z. on another note will the stock L98 350 pan work with the stroker crank?

 

I'm not sure myself if there is a difference between one or 2 piece RMS oil pans....if not, I got a pretty cheap stamped steel stroker pan Summit brand that fit fine....just don't try to run Dyno Don headers with it!

 

The stock pan will fit.

 

I tried a reusing the stock pan on my car, and it "fit".....but the rear counterweight on my Scat aftermarket crank was scraping the pan rail in the dipstick area...

Sure you can take a socket and hammer a notch in that area, but you end up slightly distorting the pan rail to do it. Then there's a real good chance
It'll leak in that same spot. There might be other aftermarket cranks that will clear, but my Scat forged didn't.... just a heads-up!

If your using a factory cast crank, then yes- you should be fine with a stock pan.

 

the crank is a cast steel eagle from their street kits.

 

If you're block wasn't notched in the area of the rear crank throw for it to fit, a stock oil pan should work fine .

 

Was your crank forged or internal balanced? We had an aftermarket cast crank in our 388, external balance, and had no problems with using a stock pan.

 

It's actually a fairly common issue. I used to think it was odd, or I had some kind of freakish odd-ball crankshaft.

Then I found that nearly every machine shop I dealt with didn't think it was rare at all, and they had clearances numerous blocks for their customers for the same reason. Most of your performance builds are internally balanced. I am actually in the process of upgrading a few things right now on my 400. I can post a crappy pic of where it has to be notched if the OP wants.

But I'm assuming he'd (the OP) would know by now if his block was notched in that area...assuming he has his oil pan off? Either he did it himself, or his machine shop did it...or it didn't need done.

EDIT: And I only brought it up because if you follow the link of the oil pan the OP was considering, (post #14) it was a stroker pan....it's notched out in that area for that reason...a stock pan isn't....

 

Oops.....