I just recently bought a 1991 z28 5.7 64k all original. it was driven 179 mile in 9 years. I have had it a week and replaced thermostat flushed coolant. Changed Oil. Changed and cleaned rearend. Changed and lubricated transmission. Put fresh premimum gas with injector cleaner (Gumout). I went and got the car registered today and drove it about 15 miles so it heated it up. When i came out it started then died and woudnt start like it wasnt getting the gas. I let it cool down and it started right up got home put in garage and shut it off. waited 5 minutes and it wouldnt start again. Any ideas?

Also where do i find the engine codes to know if it has alumium heads and or steel heads so i know what plugs and wires to buy?

Thanks any help appreciated.

If its an original motor it will have steel heads, and the plugs/wires will be the same regardless, it could be a starter heat soak issue or possibly vats, if the starter gives a single click or no response it could be heatsoak, if the starter doesn't even attempt to engage and the security light flashes/stays on it would be vats

Thanks for the information i googled and think i know what i need to do. I will let you know what the issue was.

Vats is vehicle anti theft system. If its a single click I'm willing to bet that your starter is heat soaked, there are multiple avenues you can take to correct that, my personal favorite is to mount a remote solenoid like ford does, away from the hot exhaust making it less susceptible to heat

Thanks what other options do i have to fix this issue?

Buy a starter from a 92 5spd car, LT1 fbody or 96ish corvette.

Is your starter making any noise/turning the car over? What happens when you turn the key? Mine did nothing and i found out one of my fusible links blew. then a week later vats went out, now its just a push button start

It will click then i try again and it will crank but not start. If cold it will start right up no issues.

Yea mine did that before, just may need to replace your starter. Mine clicked but wouldnt engage, AutoZone tested it and it was defective.

Oh btw, Welcome to TGO! How is your cars shape when you bought it? any plans with it?

Will the newer starters not solve this issue?

They would, but your cars a z28, is yours manual or auto?

Thanks, The car is in excellent shape just needs some TLC. Immediate plans is to work out the kinks then i am starting to think about adding some mods but not sure might just keep stock.

Auto as it has the 350

Hey, find any solutions yet? My cousins 89 iroc is having a similar issue. When it's cold it starts right up but if you shut it off and try to restart it just cranks over but won't start.

no i will update tommorow as i am going to take starter off and run to Autozone and see if it is bad. Will update as soon as i am done.

Your options are (simply ones ive done or friends have done on their thirdgens):
1. Remote solenoid
2. Exhaust wrap on the exhaust down to the ypipe (will also keep the oil cooler)
3. LT1 starter, theyre smaller, stronger and less susceptible to heat soak
4. A screwdriver across the terminals (not reccomended)

As for the starter being bad 90% of "bad starters" are actually a bad solenoid from heat soak, if it doesnt engage it wont kick the starter out, if it is messed up it will kick the bendix drive out but not far enough, or with too little power (heat=resistance=low power to starter) by mounting a remote solenoid you remove heat from the equation, and it is the cheapest route available. IIRC i paid around 20$ for the solenoid, 10$ for 10 gauge wire and wired it accordingly. the LT1 starter will run you a good chunk of change, and may also throw you for a loop because little known fact there are 2 variations of the lt1 starter and the tooth count DOES matter in that situation. And finally exhaust wrap is expensive and requires you to remove you exhaust to wrap. Honestly if youre not running headers i wouldnt dive into that rabbit hole. wrapping factory manifolds is a pain due to the chinsy casting process and lack of room.