NotsosleepyZ

thank you and unfortunately its an auto but my aunt n uncle bought it brand new in 85, been in my family since.

NotsosleepyZ

I didn't touch my crank or pistons. right now i am dealing with gasket rot. the car set for 5 years and was rarely driven the 10 before that. so next I get to something I never wanted to (probably) pull the engine to get at the rear main seal, buut I can clean the block up a bit and put in a stall converter

NotsosleepyZ

thank you sir! yours looking nice an clean

NotsosleepyZ

so I've run into a ton of leak problems probably from dry rot after sitting for a solid 5 years. probably wasn't driven much before that either as my great uncle died of pancreatic cancer, he had purchased the car from my aunt (his niece) who originally bought the car. when he died she bought the car back at the auction and gave it to me.. the cam is a 268xfi-h13 with tfs 56cc dual spring set up and 1.6 rockers creating a total lift of .555 or so I was told. edelbrock airgap and a giant oversized 750 speed demon carb. I posted a video on you tube of the first start up (well second really) still along ways to go probably going to pull the engine to get at the rear main. something back there is leaking a ton and its not the heads or manifold. but while im in there what stall converter should I get? BMM-70420? i think that's a 2000, would 2400 be better or be to big for street? BG in a CC article said oversized carb will work fine with long intake runners a light car, vacuum actuated secondary's a mild stall converter and bigger rear end gears.. all of which im getting anyways...hopefully.

NotsosleepyZ

Drac0nic

Is that the whole ball of wax? If so nice, get some #s on it. I'd call up someone and ask about stall, they'll want a ton of info. If you google you can find a converter quote sheet for someone and that should suit most people who are going to ask.


http://www.theturboforums.com/threads/305001-How-long-till-it-grenades-%28-It-never-did!-Go-figure-%29-Grenade-part-2-to-come

Read at least part this, and then have a look around it's not totally unique. If you want the cliffs it's a cast everything truck motor with an ungodly amount of miles on it that had 27 PSI of boost and nitrous on it for a myriad of 9 second passes. I do have a way to control the boost as well, it's called a waste gate. If I were going all out with one I'd probably start with the Vortec short block, with the PM rods it should be one of the best incarnations out there and likely the lightest pistons etc. as well. Or I'll just keep buying them at $50 or less. Hell paid 100 for my last one, between scrapping and selling parts off of it I got the short block for about $25.

five-seven:

NICE build, I would be thinking ported 416es instead of the S/Rs. Not hating that you spent the $, I'm just cheap like that. Some ported 416es with springs and a cam make the best 305 long block for the dollar, and the rest of it you would want to buy for a 350 anyways. The times you ran proved that it's just a small block chevy even though it has a small bore.

NotsosleepyZ

pulled the engine this weekend so I can install a new rear main seal and oil pan gasket, really didn't wanna pull this thing. buuut I don't wanna leak everywhere either. went smoother than I could have ever imagined, the hardest part was separating the engine/tranny. just didn't wanna let loose. gonna degrease the engine bay and clean/paint my engine black while its out. all in all I am confident. thank you all for the support and advice, even the haters have good points and great knowledge, that was never in question.

NotsosleepyZ

that's pretty much everything, im going to get some pictures while its out and will post numbers and further upgrades, holding off on the torque converter till I have a more final destination/goal in mind I really love ls1 engines but not sure how excited I would be to do that swap .. I hate electronics on cars, probably have to wait and see if I could afford to pay some one to install it lol. and quite frankly would rather get the paint, body, and interior in better condition.

NoEmissions84TA

iTrader: (1)

You never provided a conclusion to this. After reading this entire thread for a few hours, I will add the link.
Not to break any stones, because I went even 1 step further and built the red-headed step child - a 334 (stroked 305).
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...ml#post5568855

NotsosleepyZ

wew been a LONG TIME.. long story.... i blew up the transmission, then thought the engine blew up. come to find out the heads were machined wrong from TFS. summit reimbursed me to have tpis of chaska mn, re machine the heads.(lesson one of many: always have a machine shop check your heads)..... before learning it was the heads, i tore the engine out.... im still an idiot..... heres evidence why.. we took all the performance parts i had on the 305 and put them on a fresh 355 that had 9 to 1 compression with bigger cc heads. in my ignorance, once again with out seeking advice, swapped them with out knowing what cc head i was removing. the worst case scenario led me to 11.5 to 1 and the best case of 10 to 1.... now im getting it through my thick skull and broke pockets... the car runs good on 91 so im pretty sure were under that 11.5 mark.... i had the idle corners all over the place and so rich my eyes burned..i never checked for total advance. and was nearing 50 degrees btdc.. thank god this engine was put in a show car that rarely seen full throttle... reset all of corner idle screws to the same amount of turns. adjusted the butterflies to .020... fixing the rich idle.. i am learning how to adjust the carb and use a vacuum gauge... i mistakenly installed a secondary squriter on to the demon carb which, isnt supposed to have a squirter on the vacuum secondaries, limiting flow over time.. had problems with buying too cheap of a MSD distributor street fire.. recommended max rpm of 5500 before it runs into dwell time issues.(never knew that was a thing either)..... even applying the vacuum advance limiter part no. 28481 (4 years later) on the tightest setting i still pulled 40 degrees. cant use port vacuum to set the final timing allowing the vacuum to decide initial as i lose all vacuum for a milisec which was dropping my initial timing and consistently backfiring through the carb killing the engine.... eliminated vacuum advance for now.... the biggest problem im having (other than not seeking advice and being a fool) is COMPLETE loss of vacuum under fast acceleration (not under load just fast rev) its not consistent now. if i bring the idle up 300 rpm and then mash it.. its fine and vacuum doesnt drop to zero..have set initial timing at 16 and a total of 36(no vacuum). have verified tdc and balancer marks line up... heres where im at... i think when the vacuum hits zero for that split second my secondaries are not opening causing a lean condition.?? i do not have any dyno number as i have had health problems and in turn financial problems now. just working with what my ignorance has given me to work with. and sorry sofaking and all the other "over opinionated" members that were not only right, but still took the time to try and teach me the err of my ways. so for that i figure you all deserve to hear of the misadventures my ignorance has led too.

mikeceli

iTrader: (2)

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Sorry you're going through all this. It's what we warned you about.

Thanks for being honest though, I know it hurts sometimes to admit in public that some hard-fought decision turned out to be wrong. It takes ***** to face up to your own mistakes; far more ***** than it takes to just be obstinate in the face of experience and truth. Hopefully your truthful account of the results you got will help someone else understand why we point people in the direction we do. It's not because we "know it all", or because "everybody builds a 350 so it must be the only way", or even just because "305s suck", although they do; it's because we've got enough BTDT to recognize beforehand when a course of action is likely to go astray.

Vacuum is SUPPOSED TO go away under hard acceleration. It's created by the throttles allowing air into the intake faster than the engine can pump it out. When the throttle turns into a giant open hole (foot on the floor), that pretty much exposes the intake directly to atmosphere, which is to say, zero vacuum.

If your carb is a vac secondary, the secondaries work off of a DIFFERENT "vacuum"... NOT manifold, i.e. the kind you see on a gauge, vacuum. Instead, they work off of the vacuum developed in the primary venturis caused by high airflow through them. See "Applications" about 2/3 of the way down in this article. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bernoulli%27s_principle Then afterwards https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Venturi_effect The secondaries are fed a sample of venturi vacuum, NOT manifold vacuum, to operate them. "High airflow" through the primaries occurs ONLY at high RPM and high load; in other words, manifold vacuum is GUARANTEED to be low when the venturi vacuum in the primaries is high (high airflow due to the engine ingesting all the air it can in order to burn all the fuel it can in order to make all the power it can) and therefore the secondaries are now needed to flow more air.

Likewise, vac advance is only active at idle and cruise. If you think about how an ignition system needs to be set up, IN REALITY, you'd set the spark timing to provide max power, max torque, max efficiency, etc. AT FULL LOAD; then, at lower loads, when the mixture is leaner (slower burning) and less dense (also slower burning), you need to send the spark EARLIER such that the pressure in the cylinder resulting from fuel burning reaches its peak at the optimum point in the piston motion for the motor to extract the most possible energy from the hot gases. Manifold vacuum is an excellent indicator of engine load, and can therefore "tell" the ignition system when the mixture will need extra time to burn. The highest amount of advance is required at moderate RPMs and low load; which if you think about it, is a PERFECT way to describe cruising. Unfortunately however, in the real world, you can't build an ignition system that works exactly like that (well, you probably could, it's just A WHOLE LOT EASIER to build ones that operate the way we're used to); we're stuck with setting the combination of "static" (distributor body twiddle) and "centrifugal" (RPM-based) advance to give the right spark timing at full power and the right amount of "low-RPM retard" at the same time, and then some added "vacuum" advance to give the right amount of ADDITIONAL advance to optimize operation at low load REGARDLESS of RPM since it's compensating for the slower burn resulting from both the leaner and less-dense mixture at those times.

The ideal ignition curve for a "performance" oriented motor running on gasoline (as opposed to an "emissions" oriented FACTORY SPEC motor running on the same fuel) will look something like:

• 36° at max power/torque output ("total" advance... at relatively high RPMs, wide-open throttle, near zero manifold vacuum)
• 15 - 25° of "low power/speed retard" at RPMs, from some lower RPM at which the combustion starts to need to be measured in time instead of crank angle, down to idle (12 - 20° or so of "static" advance)
• Resulting in around 12 - 20° of "centrifugal" advance (advance starts out low at low RPMs, then increases as RPMs increase)
• "Centrifugal" advance starting just off idle (1200 RPM or so) and fully engaged by 2800 RPM or thereabouts
• Additional "vacuum" advance whenever vacuum is high; for most typical street cars, this will be in the 12 - 15" range, and will add that much spark advance ON TOP OF "total" advance, for a "grand total" of around 50° more or less of spark advance at cruising conditions

Once you understand how those parts of the system work together, there will be no more mystery about your spark timing. Or at least, far less.