NotsosleepyZ

ok now after some...MUCH enlightenment, I am sticking with the 305 ONLY because I have already bought the 305 specific (small chamber) trick flow heads, but ill keep it until I can get the cash for a ls2, that being said here is the first installment of my build which is the parts I have, and the car being brought home, more to come in the weeks with the final results including dyno numbers.

NotsosleepyZ

this is Missouri to home

NotsosleepyZ

NotsosleepyZ

just waiting on my dizzy, mini starter for the LT hedmans not pictured and the vacuum conversion for the tranny

calgutie

iTrader: (3)

looks pretty nice....how much did those heads run you? i got a 84 z28 with 305 in it and was looking into upgrading my heads.

NotsosleepyZ

thank you! 1250 with the upgraded dual springs for the 268xfi cam

NotsosleepyZ

obviously I haven't installed the parts yet but in hind sight after every thing I've learned over the last few months, I would say stick with your stock 305 heads maybe upgrade exhaust and intake and save for a 350

NotsosleepyZ

im so excited to start working on this thing, just have to find the time now that the car is here i work 2 jobs 6 days a weeks and 5 are 14 hour days, still need a starter a dizzy head bolts and head gaskets, any one want to guess what the numbers will be at the wheels? tfs 175 heads, demon 750 carb, hedman full length headers,rpm air gap intake, 268 xfi cam (non roller) 1.6 rockers, not sure what to do with the exhaust just yet.... any ideas maybe a custom crossmember so it fits right?

Chuck84TA

55 hp over stock. Do i win something special if Im right? hehe

Chuck

Chuck84TA

OR (I forgot you mentioned AT THE WHEELS)

220 HP 260 TQ

Chuck84TA

Change the axle to 3.73 posi while you're at it

Chuck84TA

Please keep us posted, I hope I am over-conservative on my estimate. I hope you see something around 275 HP 285TQ to the wheels

NotsosleepyZ

i plan on upgrading the gears but thats next year ive got enough project this year lol yea im hoping for close to 260 at the wheels probably not though and i will keep posted ill get pics up when i start bolting things on and post my dyno numbers in the end so far ive got almost 3k into it ima going to be pissed if i dot get at least 250 to the wheels lol!

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Don't waste your money on a 305 short block.

Build a 350 instead, using pistons with a "reverse dome" to match your heads. That's only a very minor mistake, easily recovered from; pouring money into a hopeless 305 short block, on the other hand, is beyond recovery.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sunk_costs
See anything in that article that your "reasoning" (I use the word loosely) resembles?

The worst thing you can do, the surest road to disappointment, is to sink money into a 305. Especially the short block, since whatever you spend, you can't get back, and can't carry forward to make use of in the future. It is a DEAD END.

Don't touch the 305 short block.

{edit} Sorry, I can't make all that stupidity about the link that the BBS creates, go away... but at least it works even though it's kinda fugly.

NotsosleepyZ

@sofakingdom yes you are correct, however the 350 i want is an ls series, so none of my parts swap, had i attained the knowledge earlier on the 305 bore i wouldnt have bought anyparts for it, the +18cc domes i would need and the block and crank would run me anywhere from 1k to 2k depending on new or machine shop, plus it would max out my heads and leave no room for future improvments, so im sticking with my three oh slow for now, when next year come around i hope to have the rearend and transmission swap complete and the ls2 swap components and be on the hunt for the engine harness and computer

NotsosleepyZ

so by my logic the sunk loss would only be made worse since i ultimatley want an ls series engine and by your logic (i use this term loosely) with my end game in mind, i would be doing the correct thing

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Precisely so.

EVERY PENNY you put into that 305 at this point therefore, is A WASTE. It puts you ONE PENNY FARTHER from your actual goal.

It is a side road off into the weeds. It's not even a "detour"; that would imply that it's a path that WOULD get you to your goal, just not as directly. Messing with a 305 short block won't even do that much for you.

If you want a LSx, go get a LSx. Leave the 305 short block alone. Sell those heads and move on to your ultimate goal. If you're not willing to do that, but instead are determined to do SOMETHING that might involve those heads, DON'T do it to a 305.

NotsosleepyZ

so my sd card on my phone is busted, but my friend has been taking a couple of pictures, i tore it all down last week, put the cam, timing gears, lifters, heads, push rods, and intake on last night, the rockers and valve covers are going on today, waiting on a new dizzy, and gotta get the headers on it and she is done for this leg of the project!!

NotsosleepyZ

OK so, all the parts are installed. the car turns over and starts, I've been playing with the timing a little bit, it needs allot of allot of adjustment as i can hear it pinging. probably going to have to have the carb re-jetted immediately, it seems to be flooding out? i posted my first ever video on youtube under notsosleepy cam n heads thirdgen. will post on here as soon as i figure out why my phone wont transfer to my computer.

FRMULA88

So despite sofa's sound advise you went ahead and did it anyway?

Brilliant !

Can you send me check for 5,000 $ since you seem to have extra money to waste?


750 CFM is too big a carb for a 305, unless you plan to rev it to 8 grand,
then you can kiss that motor good bye.

600-670 CFM is all you need for a 6,000 RPM motor, which is all a stock bottom end 305 is good for anyway.

if the carb is oversized my guess the headers are too... you must like killing your torque curve ... (small motor, oversized carb, oversized headers ? ,,, oversized cam ? what else?)

You can lead a horse to water,,,, BUT !

why sofa and I bother...

NotsosleepyZ

lol trolls r us. the headers are 1 5/8 wouldn't call it a waste. i was already borrowing knowledge i my self, do not have, i didn't wanna bug everyone i know with more questions so i kept it limited to what i knew and borrowed a little advice instead of taking TOO much on at once. if you don't like the build leave the page. no reason to be a d bag.. o wait yes there is! telephone tough guy syndrome, maybe you have all the answers but i do not. i have no regrets so far, and will post my dyno numbers when i get the funds together. now go back to trolling the rice page or whatever it is you do when your not mocking a first time builder.

FRMULA88

I never said I have all the answers... BUT I know how to look for them when I have questions. I also have a pretty extensive reference library so it's not like I am making this up:


http://www.holley.com/applications/C...bSelection.asp

http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...3702&submit=go


A first time builder should have TONS of questions, so you need to ask them and do your homework before buying parts. You forged on without asking or doing homework, despite the sound advice another experienced builder gave you. I call you out on it and I am "tough guy"?! I am merely pointing out the issues I see with your build. Issues you probably do not have the experience to know exist and or you possibly don't care to know.

Just because 1 5/8 headers and a 750 carb will bolt on to any small block Chevy does not make then them the correct part for every application. They would be fine on a larger engine (350 cu in. min.) and if that is your long term plan why bother building the 305 at all? you should have sold those heads and changed direction.


I hate to say you will be very disappointed at the dyno numbers. (mostly due to mis-matched parts)

Not sure what your expectations are from this engine build, whatever they are the HP per dollar spent will be your wake up call

For the same $ and effort you could have built a better performing 350.

but I suppose that is the price of admission..


You have handicapped the torque curve by using parts that build torque on the upper RPM scale, a scale you will never see on this motor because it's done by 6000 rpm.

1 1/2" headers and a 650 CFM carb are all a 6000 RPM small cubic inch engine needs, this will maximize the torque and promote good usable HP between 1500-5800 RPM.

NotsosleepyZ

I was misinformed and im well aware but I naively followed a super chevy 305 build. im sure I will be happy, haters gonna hate

FRMULA88

LOL ! what is there to hate about it? it's not my project.

Here is the article.. I think.

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...d/viewall.html

Not too bad for a budget build, but if you "read" the article you see they used the shop's modified 750 carb (with adjust a jet system) They also did not go into detail with carb jetting & timing. Simply put: the right sized (smaller) carb will be easier to tune.

Also note: The dyno numbers are at the flywheel, so expect 20% reduction on a chassis dyno.

Still better than the stock LG4,but similar parts on a 350 would yield better results.

Have fun ,,, I am being sincere

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

Suppose we could always get the mods to re-tittle this page as

"how not to build a 305" or
"what to do if you have lottsa spare $$$ "

So a smarter person would have asked the questions first before buying parts based on some mag article that is promoting the magazine advertiser's products.

Haven't you noticed yet, seldom does anybody in the real world get the same dyno numbers as what the mags do on a engine build ?

rusty vango

can one not build a 305 for maximum torque and not so much high RPM horsepower and get ,say 380 lbs ft? just curious.

FRMULA88

FRMULA88

Yes you can, It will be a low speed, low MPH engine... much like a construction vehicle


HP = RPM * TQ / 5252


HP = 2500 * 380 /5252
HP =181 HP

HP = 3500 * 380 / 5252
HP = 253 HP less low RPM torque & HP


HP = 4500 * 380 / 5252
HP = 325 HP even less low RPM & HP


HP = 5500 * 380 / 5252
HP = 397 HP no low RPM torque & HP at all

HP = 6500 * 380 /5252
HP = 470 HP no low RPM torque & HP at all



Torque is what moves the car from a dead stop... HP is a by product yet everyone obsesses over it... if this so critical they would call the torque converter a HP converter.


An engine than can make more torque will always make more HP. this is why a 350 WILL make more power than a 305... both built equally because it has a mechanical advantage... bigger bore.. to create more torque

FRMULA88

"built 305s" have their place in a racing class where no more than 5 litre engine displacement is allowed.

but at some point if you are racing at the SCCA level you have the $ to build a 302 which has a bigger 4.0 bore / shorter stroke so it will easily rev to 10 grand (making more HP & TQ than a built 305).


For a street/strip car the 350 is a better choice because it will make more torque at same RPM as the 305.. and more TQ = more HP.

some people like OP like to learn the hard way...

NotsosleepyZ

actually i cant disagree with any of the haters, however, just because i didn't know what i was doing, and didn't have the means nor the knowledge to do the lower end or the tools/space to PULL THE ENGINE OUT, doesn't make me an idiot, all the negativity received from this site does how ever make you realize that all in all, thirdgen.org must be a site of judgement not one of support for a dying hobby. i have no regrets and yes maybe i wasted my money in your eyes however, at least i can say i have the extra cash to throw away, and i completed the build with plenty of issues, not one of which makes it slow. its not always about how much power you can make, maybe it was to see if i was capable of doing so. then maybe next time i can do something a little more "acceptable" so sorry i didnt live up to the standards of the least desired camaro body style EVER made. still it is one of my favorite body styles partially for that very reason.. take your refurbished junkyard 350 and stick it.

NotsosleepyZ

yea i noticed this, at the time i made a few sacrifices in the hopes that i could build a 350 or 383 and not have to spend another 550 on a carb, the whole thing has went to **** but thats ok cause by sh** i mean i had hope of using knowledge from this page but apparently you all have 5.7 CI of co** in your mouth and like it more than you do supporting some one who is new into the hobby

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

Formula is right with the oversized parts, but besides that, I agree with what you did. We all need to start somewhere, right? Maybe in a few years when you have the ability and knowledge to complete your LS2 swap you'll look back and say that this wasn't the best idea, but we all need to start somewhere and work our way up. Unfortunatley people like me didn't grow up working on project cars with their dads, so I had to start from scratch and learn from my own mistakes. Luckily for me I had the money and resources for a 383 build with nothing but quality parts. Before I had those resources and money, I was half a school year away from building a mild 305.

Congrats on the build man. How's it running?

NotsosleepyZ

getting a rejet kit and shorty headers this week, they wanted 1200 to fit the exhaust to the full length headers, runs great fires right up had to reseal the timing cover, forgot the rtv black on the oil pan seal. sounds awesome yes I should have saved since I haven't legally had it on the road yet, and will have all winter to think about what I should have done. but all in all im happy. taking it to krooks performance down the road in a month or two to have it dyno'd I know its not gonna put down 300hp but should be close and well, frankly for my first engine I could have done waaaay worse.... like a Honda.

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

Thats awesome. Youll like the torque from the shorties. Post dyno numbers when you can. Good job man.

midias

still running the 750? If you ae get a used 600 and rebuild it. i just did that and got a perfect 600 for $100 total.,

Nothing wrong with building a honda, i have built a few that put down well over 300whp daily driven 35mpg.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Because Sofa can be a bit bossy and a ton of others say BUILD A 350! I say, it's your car, build what you want. That said while I did follow Sofa's advice personally and got a 350, here is what you can do to your 305. I did see the superchevy link early so here is another one. You have started well with the trick flow heads! Headers and 3" catback will also take you a long way.


Popular Hot Rodding 370hp 305

John in RI

iTrader: (167)

Bravo





I just about done re-building an 85 305. ( just waiting on a new oil pan and some lifters, ) Why.....? Just cuzz.




If I'm lucky I can keep up with a new civic !!


P.S. Like my new piston !!!

Edwardgp

More power to you notso. Very good learning experience. I have had trouble with the judgement of thirdgen members by other members since I signed on. It is your car and you will progress with your project as you see fit. I want to thank you for sharing your project with us and keep us up to date.

Drac0nic

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles..._engine_build/

Keep in mind these are engine dyno #s and they're without accessories but still a very interesting read. Even with stock heads they saw power gains with a larger intake and carb than one would think. What cam did you end up with, I didn't see it mentioned. Keep going haters gonna hate.

I wish they would do a "why you shouldn't build a 305" sticky, leave it at that and then bar people from coming into people's 305 builds uninvited. It's so obnoxious it may as well be a scripted response from a telemarketer.

ED:the one thing 88 is absolutely right on is the heads. Before putting a ton of time into any factory heads, at least get em magged. My buddy went through 4 sets of stock SBC heads, found out they were all cracked and then bought S/R Torquers because he got tired of looking. It was probably the smartest move he coulda made at $60 a set of heads he would have been into an even better set of heads with the money he'd invested into magnafluxing.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I considered letting the off-topic responses stay for examples of "how not to post on the thirdgen.org tech forums", but better judgement prevailed.

This is about one guy's 305 build, not a soapbox to prop up your cyber egos.

Got it?

Good. Thank you.

I now return you to the original discussion.

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

Thanks 57. Guys, these superchevy and chevy highperformance links and such dont necessarily apply to any build that we un-sponsered people will build. They get paid from these different companies to advertise their new parts. There's no reason to ever use a victor jr. and a 750 carb on a 305. Can they be built to actually need a carb and intake like that? Sure, but its highly unlikely that any of us will ever get that far into a 305.

I love seeing 305 builds, it saves another third gen from the wreckers and its cool to have a 305 that faster than a stock 350. BUT if you look at the torque numbers on the hot rodders build, they didnt get past 291 ft/lbs, thats less than 40 ft/lbs more than a stock TBI 305. They dumped all their money to make 370 hp, but sacrificed their torque which makes it not worth it to me. I'll build a 350 for HP all day, but if youre sticking to a 305, you want to build with torque in mnd.

That being said, I think its awesome that you built your 305 and I'm sure you'll continue to upgrade. Good luck.

FRMULA88

That's all I was trying to say...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Problem with "building" a 305 is, you get to a certain point; and then you're .... stuck.

First point you reach is the simple lack of cubes. If you take the same $$$, or the same cam, or the same anything else, and use it on a motor with more cubes, you GET MORE OUT. More Fun. Real simple. Think of it as:

Fun = CID × $$$

Got it?

Not that hard to see where this leads. If you go and get a 300 inch core, and spend $2000 on it, you'll get ... something. If you go and get a 350 inch core, you'll get about 16.7% MORE for the same $$$$. (350 - 300, ÷ 300) If you get a 400 inch core, you'll get 33.3% MORE for the same $$$$. This is just not that hard to understand. If I can understand it, then surely all of you "smart" </forrestgump> people should have figured it out LONG ago.

Next problem you come to, is the bore size. What happens here is equally simple: for each molecule of gasoline you burn, you get a certain amount of energy (work, measured as torque since all the stuff involved is rotating). The more gasoline you burn, the more power you get (power, measured in horsepower, is the name for work, or energy, per unit time). It takes air to burn gasoline. Therefore, the amount of power you can make, all else being equal, is related to FLOW (measured in CFM most often): how much air per unit time can you move through the engine to burn gasoline to get the energy out of it. Again, REAL SIMPLE: power is directly related to flow. If you want more power, you gotta get more flow. Now, it's not hard to see that the larger the valves are, the more they'll flow; but with a small bore, the valves can get SO LARGE, that they're not over the BORE any more. Instead, part of them is over THE DECK. Really bad things happen when the cam tries to open valves and they hit the top of the block, so we try to avoid that. But with the 305, that usually happens with 2.02" intake valves, and sometimes even with 1.94" ones, depending on the production tolerances in the castings and where the valves end up exactly; and even if they don't HIT, they can still be so close to the bore, that no air can flow past the valve around the part where it's almost scraping the bore. No flow. The 305 limits flow. And since flow is proportional to the AREA of the valve, which is proportional to THE SQUARE of the diameter, A LITTLE increase in its area can result in A LARGE improvement in flow; which you can get with a larger bore, but NOT with a 305.

Which brings us around to the 3rd problem with a 305: anything you do to the short block, CANNOT be transferred to a larger motor. IOW, when you get this whole $$$$ thing all done and you're disappointed, GUESS WHAT!?!?!? you now have to throw it all IN THE TRASH and start over. Which is why it's OK to put heads, cams, exhausts, carbs, and all that stuff on a 305, BUT DON'T TOUCH THE SHORT BLOCK: all that other stuff still has an upgrade path, but the short block DOES NOT.

The 305 would be fine if it was all we had. BUT IT'S NOT. There's this other motor, with more CID, that bolts RIGHT DIRECTLY UP to where a 305 is now. Can't even tell the difference from the outside except by the part #s. Almost everything, EXCEPT FOR THE SHORT BLOCK, is identical. No difference in $$$$. The "core", the wore-out thing you take apart and renew, is BY FAR the CHEEEEEEEEEEEPEST part of the whole project; but at the same time, the one you're MOST stuck with.

So I don't think it's the least bit "awesome" that you're making a mistake. I've seen about a billion pictures of engine builds in progress on motor stands, and seen quite a few on my own stand; those don't impress me, no matter how shiny the paint. I see things like John's pic up there with the #6 piston about .060" shy of the deck, and just shake my head. That one isn't going to end well... it's going to get drilled at a stoplight by a Kia minivan or a Jeep or something.

I wish I could talk you out of making the mistake of spending money on a 305 short block. PLEASE listen to common sense and reason, instead of n00b "pride" and "I'm gonna show em" and all that crap. We've all been 18 at some point in our lives, and kinda grown past that; and are trying to use Algore's wonderful invention here, the Interwebz, to pass along to you OUR experiences so you don't have to learn the same things WE did, the hard way. Except in my case it was building 283s when the 327 came out, then 327s when 350s started being available, and by then I finally "got it".

Best of luck, whatever you do; and I'll pity you if you decide to waste your money on a 305 instead of getting the most you can out of it.

NagleMac

iTrader: (1)

That "awesome" was directed more towards the part that he's at least taking his first steps towards upgrades in the future. Will he regret it? Maybe. But now he at least has the knowledge to do it over with a 350. Its another thirdgen on the road longer, instead of being parted or scrapped, thats what i think is "awesome"

FRMULA88

The future 350 he wants to build is an LS engine.

The mechanical knowledge gained will be helpful but none of the engine parts will interchange so OP will be starting from scratch.
New motor mounts, headers, heads, cam, intake, etc. etc. the only part that can be re-used is the carb.

Similar to going from a SBC to a BBC.

That 305's final fate (like many before)will be e-bay, or the garage floor.

IMHO the best mod ever for a stock 305 is a N2O kit. Quick, cheap, & effective. The best thing is when you are done with the 305, you can reuse the N20 kit on another engine.

But a stated before, we all have to start somewhere.

Drac0nic

Concur to a pretty large degree on that, I'm going to do a turbo on mine long term. Figure if people seem to think the small bore and shrouding are the weaknesses, cramming some more air in should help things out quite a bit. The question in my mind right now is which one will I use, there's a guy locally who has a 66mm T4 for $200 and I have a 71mm T6 sitting here I'm inclined to try because I have delusions of grandeur.

I'm going to try a HSR on my 305, I'm in the process of installing it now. I suspect that it will give me quite a bit more top end than the TPI did, even though it will cost me some torque I can make up for that with having an effective 3.73 gear ratio. With a stock 91 Y-body TPI cam my RPM is going to be somewhat limited, but I feel that if I get a decent cam I'll have no trouble making power up to 6500 and with decent drivability even in a slightly portly Astro Van. The big test of this short block will be the rod bolts ultimately but if I blow it up I have 2 spare bullets here I can put in having minimal outlay into them.

What's funny to me is so many people build 5.3Ls any more and make awesome power with them. I mean shoot, it's a bore that's .035 over from a 305 and even more stroke than a 305. I don't hear anyone bitching they don't have top end. They also have good intakes and even better heads, which makes a huge difference. I suspect that if we had intakes closer to the LS as a production option for a 305 we would be seeing a lot different opinions of them. if you look at the LS series stuff it's the new SBC, EVERYONE runs one who wants EFI because it's so cheap and easy to do.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

It's not "awesome" that he's "taking his first steps" toward WASTING HIS MONEY on something that will disappoint him and that he will ne no recourse but to THROW IN THE TRASH.

Learning, experience, and all that, is fine; but when it comes to MONEY, the first Rule of Hot-Rodding should be, DON'T SPEND IT ON SOMETHING THAT YOU CAN SEE FROM THE GET-GO YOU'LL BE THROWING IN THE TRASH. (come to think of it, that Rule might even apply OUTSIDE OF hot-rodding, too....)

99olo

Lay off him.

He spent his money on his 305, which was a mistake, but, hey, he'll learn.

Besides, it doesn't hurt anyone but him. Can't get mad at him for trying to better himself.

Getting mad just makes you look, well, childish.

He told you his reasoning, he made it clear he's going to do this.

Now, back to topic, your car looks clean. I didn't read through all of these posts, just skimmed, so forgive me if you've stated already, is it a 5 speed?

FRMULA88

The problem is a turbo build in neither simple or cheap, especially for a novice / first time builder.

You are also faced with limiting boost to a "safe" level to keep an otherwise stock engine from blowing the heads off, melting the cast pistons, etc. which is the same issue with N20 or a blower.

which is why you would limit the N20 system to a 125-50 shot max on a stock motor. Boost will be limited to the same HP level so maybe 8-10 psi max.. to keep the motor alive.


Granted with a turbo the boost is always there when you want it, but a small 150 HP N20 kit a 10# bottle will last 8-10 passes.

that's a lot of refills before you come close to paying for a turbo system.
which is why N20 is nicknamed the "poor mans supercharger"

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

About a dozen years ago, I pulled my stock 130k+ mile '86 LG4, pulled the little stock cam and put in a Crane Compucam with new lifters, installed the new World 305 SR heads I had ported (first set of heads I had ever ported), topped it with a ZZ4 intake manifold, sandwiched it with Hooker 2055 headers, traded the converter for one that was restalled to about 2200, and slid it back in. I also put in a 3" universal cat, 3" mandrel bent I-pipe, and 80-series Flowmaster. My initial response when driving it for the first time was, "Now, this is what the factory should have done!" It also passed emissions with no problems with the stock CC q-jet system. I had "raced" the car with the stock LG4, and these mods took off a full second at our 5800' elevation 1/4 drag strip.

I will argue until they plant me that I gained more performance for my bucks than I would have if I had instead gotten a 350. Why? Because if I had gotten a 350, first I would most likely had to rebuild the shortblock, and that, plus the cost of buying the core, would have required me to NOT do something that I did to the 305 that the 350 would also need. What would that be? The intake manifold? You could argue that the ZZ4 intake isn't that a big of an improvement over the stock intake, and you'd be right. But, I paid $75 for it (it was a take-off from somebody who put EFI on the ZZ4), which wouldn't go far against the 350 purchase/build. Heads? Most factory 350 heads are performance junk, so even if I hadn't gone with the Worlds, I would have had to do something else. Skip the headers? Yeah, right.

I drove the car like that for 4 years. I then came across a ZZ4 shortblock (no I wasn't looking for a ZZ4 specifically, just happened to be what I found). I also found a ZZ4 cam, put all that under the heads/q-jet, and with same converter/exhaust as the 305 had, it took over a second off the ET. But, I had 4 years to save up the coin for the shortblock.

My point? I don't blame anybody for improving a 305. What I have always said, though, is if you have to put money into the block or rotating assembly, then it's time to find a 350 core. Was that strictly followed here? Obviously not. But, as has been pointed out, we all learn.

Oh, I drove (and more regularly raced, as did my son) the 350 for 5 years. It then got the LS1/4L60E swap, which, with all-GM engine internals, more stall, and steeper gears, took over another second off the ET the 350 managed. And, gets better gas mileage...