kissedin

I have read a couple of starter trouble shooting guides out there. But no description sounded like my problem. Would you guys please help me out?

In this video I am first trying to jump start with no luck. Then I turn the "donor car" off in order to record the sound. (This is around 00:40.). The car doesn't crank. Just make that annoying sound.

danclemts

iTrader: (1)

The click is the starter solenoid, Then your voltage drops to zero, could be a bad battery, bad ground wire, bad starter. Easy things to do are clean battery terminals, check cables on other end at starter and block, make sure they are tight and clean. If everything looks good, get battery and starter tested. Remember to disconnect the battery when messing with connections on starter end

rarebmx

iTrader: (6)

Nuetral Saftey Switch on shifter!

kissedin

Would the relay click if this was the case?

Would it be a good idea to connect the battery direct to the starter motor's plus side (using starter cables) in order to test the starter's functionality?

rarebmx

iTrader: (6)

Nothing would click if it is the nuetral safety switch. It would make all the lights go out in the dash when you turn the key but nothing should happen. I have heard of guys hitting the started with a hammer to get the starte gear to dislodge or move. Are either of the batter cables heating up when you try to start (meaning more resistance)?

kauboy

Dead Battery.
Not just low on power, it's probably sulfated to the point it won't hold a charge.

kissedin

The battery is not dead. I have tried to jump start. I have tried with a fully charged battery.


I havent felt the batter cables but my battery runs out of juice after just a few tries (then the relay doesn't click btw.) so it sure does consume power.

Tomorrow I will check connections at both ends (battery and starter).

Should I tap starter with hammer... or beat it real hard?

kauboy

The battery is not dead. I have tried to jump start. I have tried with a fully charged battery.
Oh, so you took out battery out completely and put a new battery in it's place? I was going with what I saw and heard on the video.

rarebmx

iTrader: (6)

You want to tap it to see if that makes it move, then you van hit a little harder. You do not want to hit it like you are framing house.

t-top havoc

iTrader: (3)

Turn on headlights.

Dim or nothing-- BATTERY
Good & shiney-- STARTER

Power windows ssllooow then nothing-- BATTERY
Instrument panel lights dim-- BATTERY

NEW or **KNOWN**GOOD BATTERY-- STARTER

Twin_Turbo

iTrader: (25)

testing with a low load like lights working does not rule out the battery.

antares57

iTrader: (8)

How old is the starter? If the battery is good and being drained on cranking then I'd look to see if the stater is good. I recently changed my Ignition Control Module during a no start condition when both my battery and starter were good. This solver my problem, but check your starter (solenoid) first. Good luck.

Mr.Irrelevant

iTrader: (1)

It's the starter. Same scenario, I replace it this morning. O'Reilly has them for $44. It might be the solenoid but that will cost $20 and you have to still drop the starter to get to it. Changed it and it started.

kissedin

No. connected my battery to a battery on a car that was idling. The voltmeter on my car showed 13 volt while doing this. Isn't that enough to rule out a battery failure? I am a newbie so please tell me.

TreeFiddy

No. The battery might show a good voltage on no load, but may die when given the extreme load of the starter. Just connecting it to another car with jump cables may no be enough to supply the current required.

If the cranking volts go south of about 10V, there's a battery or cable problem.

kissedin

Hmmm... by the look of the voltmeter in my video, it seems that this might be the problem...

Sitting at work right now and is collecting all the info and tips I can get. Hope I will have time to go to my garage tonight.

kissedin

Ok! All fired upp today. when i turned the ignition key it showed 8 volts. The battery that was fully charged the night before!

Then i took another battery and connected to the battery on the car. (It started smoking from the alternator until realized that i had mixed up the plus and minus side on my extra battery ) after this little accident, I also tightend the screws on the battery poles. This time engine went around and the car started!

Gives around 15 v charge. Next step is a new battery. Thank you all for your help!

danclemts

iTrader: (1)

Good chance you damaged your alternator by hooking it up backwards. Usually kills the diodes, damaged alternator can kill new battery, best to take alt off and have it tested

kissedin

Well, aint this just typical? But it does charge the battery ( had 11 volt after a ride instead of 8 volt as it was when i started the ride). Why fix domething that's not broken?

danclemts

iTrader: (1)

Fun times, Alt is charging now, but bad diodes will allow battery to drain ands die. If you feel lucky, run it. There are tests you can do to check diodes, google it if you have a multimeter and can use it. link below to youtube video showing how

kissedin

Hmmm... Thank you I will look into this.

kissedin

Is there a guide on how to change the diods? Can't find it myself. Just alot of comment's on how easy it is.

danclemts

iTrader: (1)

kauboy

My guess was right!!!! lol glad you got it started

kissedin

They sell rebuildkits for a SI10, SI12 and SI15 and SI17 for 30 euro. Will check diodes on monday next week. If the diodes are OK then i guess I'll save myself 30 euro.

But when you say "bad diodes will allow battery to drain" do you mean it like there will be a leakage of current? Or do you mean that the alternator will cease to charge and thus drain the battery?

Kauboy: yeah you were right! thank you for your persistence.

danclemts

iTrader: (1)

Diodes only allow current to flow one way, from alternator to battery, when diodes go bad, current can flow from battery out, thus draining it. It will still charge the battery though.