Ok so my engine in my camaro died and I have another 305 that was in an old pickup of mine that was just rebuilt 1000 miles ago maybe (don't know what it originally came out of but they have the older style valve covers with the bolts on the sides). my dad also has a set of 14014416 heads that have been sitting in storage that I want to take to a machine shop to get cleaned up so I can put them on that engine and just transfer my TPI setup onto it also. My old engine was a stock 86 305 TPI that was wore out anyways. The biggest thing I need help with is I'm wondering about the cam, I would like to put in a new one but what will work with a stock TPI and those heads also I'm gonna have to replace the valve springs and all that so what do I have to get when it comes to that.

 

Bump

 

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This might help

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...s-305-l69.html

 

Thanks that helped quite a bit but i still need some help with the rest of the valve train

 

Wolf, I don't want to post any links of my build because this is your thread, but if you head over to the Power Adder section, and look through my thread "Chronicles of a 9 Second 305", you will hear what a big cam sounds like in a 305 engine with ported 416 heads. I have pictures too of all work performed to give you an idea of what you need to do to clean up your 416 cylinder heads. Good luck with your 305 build, and welcome aboard...

 

Thanks for the info, that is a sweet build by the way, i really want to go that route (minus the turbo) but I do not have very much experience with working on engines (most I've done is swapped intake manifolds) I have been doing a lot of research and i am a perfectionist but i dont want to screw anything up, also Street Lethal what kind of gas mileage do you think you get without the turbo. this is going to be my daily driver after i get it fixed.

 

also about the prom, i have absolutely no idea what to do there so i would like to keep my stock one so i would like a cam that would work with that.

 

Gas mileage will definitely suffer with the cam specs that I went with, however in your case I would recommend no more than 218/218 on the duration side, which essentially would be splitting the difference between a stock cam and with what I went with. I wouldn't worry about the prom just yet, as so long as your not swapping engines, and are running stock sized injectors, you can tune your fueling with an adjustable regulator for the time being, get it close to 128 BLM as possible (slightly richer for the cam), which basically makes it easier for the ECM to maintain its' target average...

 

ok im on Summit and there are 2 different durations, the advertised and at 050 lift which is the one i am looking to be 218/218?

 

what about the SUM-1103 ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet ) or SUM-1102 ( http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet )

 

I might've missed it, but is the new 305 a roller block? 1pc or 2pc rear main?

 

i dont know, how can you tell?

 

Are your lifters flat or do they have a little smooth wheel on them? I'm referring to the part of the lifter that rides on the cam. As far as the rear main seal goes, look at the back of your 305 and compare it to the new 305.

 

No, you'll want something like these, note how they work in conjunction with the stock converter, and work well with your factory static compression, 218/218 @ 050...

... if your on a budget;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/su...make/chevrolet

... or what I would go with;

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cc...make/chevrolet

 

Honestly, if you're going to be replacing your valve springs and cam and all, I would just get a cam kit. You'll eventually have to get a chip for your prom, or tune it yourself (live tuning will yield the best results), because even the stock prom isn't good enough for the stock cam. Talk to Tuned Performance, he's on the boards here and is very helpful and knowledgeable. Depending on if your new block is a roller or not, I'd go with this for the roller http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Code=K08-464-8 or this for the flat tappet http://www.compperformancegroupstore...Code=K12-238-2

 

hey street will that comp cam work with stock springs?

 

also what kind of valve seals would you guys recomend.

 

Yes, it's way under .500" lift...

These are what I used for my build;

Intake...

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...527_0147393648

Exhaust...

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...877_0147393658

 

The last thing you need to do is be putting some cheap summit brand old school flat tappet piece of crap cam in it.

Do some research, get a modern cam grind. Even the Comp Magnum grinds are better. The Xtreme Energy and Voodoo lines are good. Howards has some good stuff. The amount of duration vs lift has changed a LOT over the years and those old cams will just give you terrible street manners and al ot less power than a better mannered newer design cam.

You dont need to be installing flat tappets into anythign anymore anyway. If you cant afford to go roller just leave it alone. Modern oils have ruined the flat tappet cam.

 

This is going to be a budget build so im going to reuse as much stuff as possible except the cam with brings me to my next question, will i be able to use the valves from my camaro engine if they are in good shape or should i buy new ones?

 

anyone?

 

You can, sure. I dont know why. Depends on whether they're in good enough shape to be refurbished.

Heads have to be rebuilt just like engines. Valve guides have to be checked. Valve springs checked/replaced. Valves need to be repaired on their mating surface to the valve seat. valve seats need to be replaced/repaired.

There's a lot of if's in there as to whether or not what you propose is a good idea. But it can certainly be done.

If the valves you want to use are too worn out or damaged then they wont be able to repair the mating surface to the valve seat without significantly reducing the "margin".



If you re-use old valves, some are going to be in better shape than others, and some need a lot of work and all those angles and faces in that picture need to be restored to factory specs.

So it can be done but it just depends on a lot. If the new valves are larger, then larger valve seats will need to be cut into the heads also.

Generally the easiest thing to do is just re-use the valves that are already in whatever heads you're using.