91 RS camaro 305 tbi

Edited for more up to date info.

Car ran fine before the motor rebuild aside from a blown headgasket and a bent push rod. Nothing electrical was touched. No security light comes on. Bad resistor key was already bypassed. I turn the key nothing happens. There is a new IGN switch and works properly. I kicked started the car by engaging the Starter enable relay in the lower left kick panel and still no Spark or injector pulse but fuel was primed. Could it be a bad ICM?

 

Did you check to see if you're getting spark? There isn't any fuel you say. And it will not crank. Is your CEL on? Is the battery dead? Did you makes sure your main ground cable is tight and bolted to a good connection. Make sure your battery connections are tight and not dirty. Is your fuel pump relay is clicking?

 

Same problem only im a 305 tpi. my fuel relay clicks. what does that mean?

 

It means the relay is turning on. That's a good thing it means there should be power going to the fuel pump. To check if your fuel pump is running have someone turn the key to accessory but not power and put your ear to the fuel filler neck and try to listen for an electric pump noise.

 

Only if you have 12V to the relay and haven't blown the pump fuel
Need to get the test light out and see if power is available at the relay (fuse ) and out to pump ( worn contacts in relay )

 

Update. No cel fuel relay isn't clicking, I have a in line fuel filter so I can visibly see no fuel everything is properly grounded and battery is new and good. Also I unplugged my vats bypass and the security light didn't come one at all. Same with the bypass plugged in

 

How?
By programming or resistors ?
On the tune , on the relay or both ?

Checked that the IGN switch is being operated correctly by the key and that power is coming out of the switch in RUN and START positions ?

 

Bypassed by resistors. But even with it unplugged the security light doesnt come on.

Ignition switch is working properly aswell

 

You appear to have no power to anything so check the IGN switch

as well as the power supply to it
Assuming that your battery is fully charged , it's cables and connections are clean and tight , etc .........................

 

Even if everything else comes on when the key is turned?

 

update again. ignition switch is getting power and working correctly

 

Update. I believe i have found the problem. I pulled the dash cover off to check the vats computer and it is buzzing. This leads me to believe the Vats computer is fried since no security light comes on with or without the bypass connected, as well as the starter and fuelpump not turning on.

Edit:
I opened the starter enable relay and jumped the black/yellow wire with the green wire and it triggered the fuel pump to prime. i put the relay back on and enabled the mechanical switch inside while i turned the key and the motor now turns over but i do not have fuel going threw the injectors

 

While you have it apart why not just delete the VATS from the starting circuit and be done with it once and for all.

 

If i could do it without any cost i would but im very limited on funds at the moment

 

cut out the VATS relay and reconnect the wires... the VATS does not work with the ECM...

look at the wiring diagram,,,it's pretty simple circuit.

 

update vats module is fried it makes a whining noise on keyturn and when the starter enable relay is made to work the whining gets worse when the car cranks and the vats module smokes. not sure what i can do to get around this any help would be appreciated.

 

You can bypass the starter enable relay under the drivers side kick panel. Connect the large gauge yellow wire to the large gauge green wire. You can either buy a hz modulator to send the hz signal to the ecm to enable injector pulse or I offer reprograming and can disable it in the prom programing.

 

You might want to check your VATS circuit diagram again.

The VATS module supplies a VATS input ( fuel enable ) signal to terminal B6 on the ECM so the ECM will fire the injectors.
Bypassing the starter enable relay ( also operated by VATS ) only gets the engine to crank , but not fire.
Which is why you need the above mentioned signal generator or VATS deleted in the tune before the engine will fire

 

My mistake...

I rewired mine with a body harness from a '90 but the Engine harness / ECM was '88.

so I had no issue with the ECM, I just deleted the VATS.

I have not looked at the VATS diagram in 16 years... plus I went to CARB. LOL

 

more updates. opened the vats box and noticed a component on it was fried.

 

BYPASS the VATS . . .

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-v-t-s.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats

Good Luck !

 

That only works if you have a FUNCTIONING VATS module which the OP does not have.
Using resistors does not " bypass " VATS ; it only fools the module into thinking the correct key
is being used in the Ign. If the module is cactus then it will achieve little

In the OP's case ,only way around is as previously stated ; get VATS deleted in the tune or buy the fuel enable signal generator.
Either way requires bypassing the starter enable relay

 

Thank you everyone for your input. Because i would eventually need to do a bit of body work on it (newpass door/FL quarter panel/bumper/hood/paint) i found another camaro in a local ad with a cracked bumper and bent hood from a low speed wreck that has a cracked radaitor. Seems like a better option to put this fresh rebuild in.

Current '91 RS (red) and possible replacement '92 RS 350/built 700r4 (green)
http://imgur.com/a/UOnqp#kHcSO5M