Is there a kit?
I want to add the vortec heads, the Scoggin-Dickeys intake ,hot cam with springs,ARP head bolts,1.6 roller rockers and some fresh injectors also. Is their a performance kit out there that has it ''all together" for me?

thanks for the input

I have one of the crate vortec engines from Scoggin....is that what you had in mind?

Well not the engine itself just the top end stuff.

Of course not.

Why would S-D (the mfr and sole vendor of that intake) do that? Everybody wants their own cam choice, not everybody wants head bolts, not everybody wants to buy injectors, among other things; it wouldn't sell in large enough numbers to justify packaging it like that. You're barking up the wrong tree.

Buy the parts you want the way they actually come, and don't worry about "kit". But do be prepared for a disappointment after spending all that $$$. As has been widely reported by those who have used it, it gives very little performance improvement in exchange for a WHEELBARROW FULL of money. TPI itself is the primary limitation, not the heads or cam; TPI will keep it slow.

WOW! i see you're a supreme member with 14.000 posts so i will take it you know your chit. however maybe i'll just go with the 906 heads,D-S intake and roller rockers for the 40hp increase. Still its about a grand in costs . thanks

Don't mind sofa. He knows a ton of info and hates TPI. Just another option for you would be to skip vortec heads in place of a good set of aluminums. Port your current intake an the $400 you saved not buying a manifold gets you a real set of heads. Do some searching, there are a ton of threads on here involving TPI replacement heads.

You'll still need to port the S-D base to maximize air flow. S-D base don't exactly flow well.

Well, the heads, intake, & rockers will set you back around $1200.

For 40 HP, that's $30 per HP.

Rule of thumb in this hobby is, HP are about $10 apiece, at the max. Anything more than that, not cost effective.

I don't "hate" TPI. I respect it greatly for what it is, and the engineering that goes into it (being a musician and an engineer myself). I just am less .... warm and fuzzy ... than most about that it came in these cars, and less forgiving of its limitations.

If you were to build a motor with the same heads, some better cam than that weeeek stocker you asked about but that costs about the same, and some other intake - almost ANY other intake - you could get upwards of 100 HP above your stock L98, for less money than that S-D base and all that. Just something to think about.

Porting the base doesn't address the limits of TPI, which is, the long runners. The "T" in TPI; "tuned". They are designed to work their best at a specific frequency. Above that, they are detrimental. That "frequency" works out to about 3600 RPM. Doesn't matter what the "flow" is; 3600 RPM is what you get. Kind of like a musical instrument: no matter how hard you blow, the "pitch" pretty much stays the same. Same deal with TPI's long runners. As long as those 22" runners are on there, you're stuck with 3600 RPM; and since a 350 makes 400ish ft-lbs of torque on pump gas when properly optimized, and HP = torque × RPM × 1/5252.11, you're pretty much stuck with something not too far different from what it comes with stock, no matter what the "flow" is. "Flow" isn't the limit, TPI is.

I don't want to see anybody make the mistake of laying out their long green on something that's been demonstrated time and again NOT to work. Kinda takes all the fun out of the hobby, when you spend giga$$$$ on your car and still get to take an a$$-whuppin from somebody that spent WAY less. Don't want to see that happen to ANYBODY.

Thanks, This is what i needed to make a decision....
How about i port out the intake and plenum add larger runners and BBK/TPIS throttle body?

After some web browsing how about this idea:
Stealth Ram setup
906 vortecs
hot cam/springs
bigger injectors?

If you decide to go long runner intake then check out vids like this as far as porting. Aftermarket runners are normally ported too.
But to get past the limits of a long runner design you may want to head for a HSR intake or something of the like. Pick your heads of choice then.
The factory TB is enough for most street motors, so unless your old one is wearing the bushings I'd stick with the original.

Thanks Aliceempire as i have reviewed most his vids lately.But for me with that much work, i'd rather go Super ram.

Best bang for the buck IMO is the Holley Stealth Ram. IMO that would be your best option. It's cheeeep as these things go, relatively direct bolt-on, few mechanical challenges of any kind in a Camaro (a bit tougher in a Firebird), and is still currently being produced. Won't "make the most power" out of all the options, but it'll make AHELLUVALOT more than TPI with ANY base: if any motor with the cam you originally posted would be satisfactory, then you'll be twice as happy with the Stealth Ram.

I wouldn't put a SuperRam on my worst enemy's car... not because it doesn't "run good" or doesn't "make power"; but rather, because it multiplies all of the mechanical hassles of TPI by a factor of about 10. It is EXTREMELY difficult to keep working right, with the overall poor design of the sealing elements; and is even more "in the way" of EVERYTHING ELSE. Plus, AFAIK new ones are no longer available, and trying to cobble together a whole complete actually useable one, is an ordeal all its own.

The intake that will "make the most power" out of all the ones that are more or less bolt-in, is the MiniRam; but the cost of that one is MUCH greater than the Stealth Ram.

Look harder at the Stealth Ram. That's MUCH more likely to do what you want done, at a price that makes sense, than any other option conveniently available to you.

Agreed. If you're going to change intakes at all, go with a HSR.

Ok so is this what i want?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Weiand-7542-Stealth-Ram-EFI-Vortec-Intake-Manifold-/310404758589?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item484590bc3d&vxp=mtr
And if so, Do i use a LT1 TB with the Vortecs and 24lb injectors, Hotcam,roller rockers and springs? Then i'll have Brian at Tuned Performance re-map my ecm

What gaskets do i get for the heads and this intake

Thats the one you want. Use your factory TB.
Hotcam tells us nothing. I suggest you don't take cam selection lightly. Search the aftermarket port manifolds board to make a sound decision.
Match your injectors and springs per cam selection. Make sure the vortecs are properly set up for whatever the specs is on the cam you get.
Vortec manifold gaskets...they often come with the manifold. But note you'll need fuel rails and a regulator. Again the boards. Learn before you buy anything.

Thanks guys for talking with me on this. i know its been talked over so damn much on many threads but it makes me more comfortable seeking the personal input for my decision making.

This is what i'm referring to as to the "Hot Cam"
LT4 Hot 1.5 ratio
.495/.495 218/228 112 1.5's

That cam was designed to be installed in stock FI engines, running their stock tune.

20 years ago.

It's "OK", but there are plenty better now. Ones that take advantage of what the other intake allows. The GM cam leaves ALOT of potential sitting on the table.

Look at the Comp XFI series. The XFI268 is a popular companion to that intake. If you have good tuning skillz & equipment, you could even go for the 280.

As I understand it, the 93 LT1 TB fits that intake better than the ones in these cars; something about the way the cable hooks up. But I'll let someone who has experimented with it more than me, fill you in on the details.

I could be wrong but I thought the 88 and earlier tb was fine but the 89 and later needed a spacer.

I checked the summit racing site and there it was. Not that a LT1 TB couldn't be better, i've never used one.

"These are designed to use a Holley twin 58mm throttle body or a stock GM throttle body from a 1985-88 TPI. If using a throttle body from a 1989 or newer, a spacer must be added for clearance. Please see the installation instructions (available below) for other tips."

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wnd-7542/overview/

That's quite possible; as said, I'm not an expert, just throwing something out there that might want some research.

If memory serves, the problem with whichever ones it is that have whatever the problem is, the place the bracket mounts to on the HSR is like too far outboard or something; whatever the details are, it makes the throttle cable have to do something unpleasant. Not sure that it's actually covered in the instructions, or at least, at one time it wasn't.