Ok I need some help from the experts on here before I drop a ton of in needed money on the car. The car is a 89 firebird formula tpi auto.
Here's what's going on with it. For the last couple weeks the car has been starting when it wants both cold and warm. Most the time it would just take a couple turns of the key (no crank at starter) then will crank right up. Now it won't crank at all. I ordered a new starter enable relay thinking that would fix it but nothing. If I remove the top of the relay and connect the switch my self or jump the big green wire to the big yellow wire it will crank but no start. Their is no security like on so I want to have some second opinions before cutting the wiring up to put in a resistor. I am going to try and locate the wires today and see if the resistor matches the key. Does anyone have a good pic of the wires to test. I was thinking maybe a bad wire to the tumbler but if I hook the big green wire to big yellow wire it will crank till battery goes dead so don't think it's that. Is their anything else to try. Few things I forgot was that it has new neutral safety switch oh and yes Btry fully charged all the fun stuff. I think somthing might be telling the injectors not to fire but how would I test them. I did get it to fire once the other day buy activating the starter relay myself and it ran but nothing since. Since the security light is not on is it somthing other then bags if so what could cause the crank but no start. Fuel relay is good and primes.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...-i-bypass.html

 

Thanks I see the two white wires coming out of steering that warped in orange. How do I measure the resistance, unplug it with one lead the one wire and the other lead to the other. At all key positions I'm getting no reading. The key is reading 3.75 which would be 3750

 

Thanks I see the two white wires coming out of steering that warped in orange. How do I measure the resistance, unplug it with one lead the one wire and the other lead to the other. At all key positions I'm getting no reading. The key is reading 3.75 which would be 3750

 

How do you remove the tumbler I want to check those wires the car started a few times today just fine then nothing again. Still trying to be 100% what to cut and splice a resistor into before I do

 

3.75k is the same as 3750 ohms
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system
You don't need to cut anything you can back probe the connecter to temperarly test the resister bypassing the key reader. The passkey will send the hz signal to the ecm is the tolerance is correct. Heat and cold can effect a resisters impedance.
https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

 

Ok I have read that artical like 10 times just don't fully understand it so I will back probe each wire ( one lead to one wire one lead to the other) with the harness connected and the key on the on position. I did see the security light came on today it kinda comes and goes

 

You could make it go away forever for $30

 

Do I send you the ecm or just the prom. Where do I send if to and how long would it take

 

I just need the memcal, the ecm has a access cover. If you remove that and rock back the tabs on each side of the memcal it will release. I ship back next mail day priority and do the work same day. Send me a pm if you are interested. I do have replacement memcals starting at $85 shipped for used hypertechs or $120 for tpi maf memcals with reprograming included. You still need to bypass the enable relay for a full vats bypass.

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...formation.html