Briandrex

I've been looking for a third gen for about a year and half and have lurked on this site for close to a year during the search. I've always wanted a 1992 Z28 as that was the year of my HS graduation and the car I always wanted as a teenage. The body has 186000 on it, new crate engine that has been modified, rebuilt auto transmission that is good to 700HP, also new larger radiator to help keep the engine cool and new tires and brakes. This September I finally found my baby. Picked this car up in Rhode Island and brought here home.

The good about the car is no rot or rust, interior is immaculate except missing headliner, body in good shape, paint is decent but definitely plan on a new paint job if I get the car where I want it. The previous owner was a car enthusiast and really took good car of the car. He had a performance engine shop put in a 350 engine bored 60 over with solid lifters and it has carburetor and stall converter as well. True dual 3 inch stainless exhaust was installed and CAT was removed. Car sounds awesome but a little loud if I want to sneak out early without waking the whole neighborhood.

The air conditioner and whole ventilation system was removed so I have not vent, defrost, air or heat which I know I can get back. Wiring harness was cut up a bit as I realize this car had a stock 350 fuel injection engine. I have enjoyed driving the car but realize this is setup for going fast in straight line like at the track and really loves to be up at higher RPMs around 5800 to get it's full horse power.

Starting to think about swapping a LS1 engine in for the current one and going back to fuel injection. I really want this to be a street car that I can occasionally take for a 70 mile ride to my office and right now with its current setup I wouldn't want to go that far with it feeling like it's meant for the track and not street. My question is can this engine be modified to make it more street or should I do a swap and sell this one off? I love the car so I'm looking to get it to a place where I can go out for the day and just drive it everywhere and also enjoy some AC in the middle of the summer when it's 100 out.

I will try and get some more pictures up of the engine and interior. This is a great site and I've learned a lot just from lurking and reading others posts on here.

Thanks,

Brian

Zane M

iTrader: (1)

You certainly can modify the engine/drivetrain as needed to make the car more streetable.
Are you planning on doing the work yourself, or are you going to have to farm it out to a mechanic/shop.
If you can do it yourself, you are probably going to be spending a fair amount of $$ to get things to a little more mild state.
If you are having a shop do it, you can probably double that amount, and would be well on the way $$ wise of just getting an LS conversion done.
I would personally go LS,but there are plenty of people that will advocate sticking with the venerable small block.

Briandrex

Zane engine work wise I think I'm going to have to farm it out as I'm still learning and also own a construction business which means my time to work on the car will become very limited as the spring season is almost upon us. I love working on the car but I'm afraid if I get into the engine work myself I won't be driving the car for the next year or two and that's just no fun.

I'm hoping a local thirdgen enthusiast responds as I'd love to show someone in person what I have and get opinions. I'm not against keeping this engine but would like this car to be less hot rod and more bad *** street. I can honestly see myself keeping this car until I'm too old and broke to sit in it.

For any local thirdgen guys I live in Elkton, MD closer to Chesapeake City in Cecil County Maryland. I've seen a few third gens around here so I know there must be a few guys in the area. Thanks for the response Zane!

Briandrex

Got a chance this spring to talk with the guy that built the engine on this car. Have had a lot of fun driving it this spring but it's definitely not what I want as far as driving is concerned. My question is do I try selling the car the way it is and look for an unmolested 1991-92 z28 350 or do I swap engines or possibly modify this one? Basically looking to just get in the car and have some fun but also get my AC hooked back up with vents, defrost, and heat. Also looking to tone down the exhaust as my garage is literally the thunder dome when I fire the beast up. So many guys that see and drive the car think it's sac religious to modify this engine. It's a blast to drive but I'm not looking to race off of every single light and stop sign (too many tickets) lol. Any help is appreciated guys. Thanks!

Here are the specifications from the guy that built this engine.

355 CID
10 to 1 Pistons with 6 Inch Rods
202 Aluminum Head with 1.6 Roller Rockers
A Little Over a 500 Lift Cam
650 Holley Carburetor
Eagle Steel Crank
Rear End Gears 4:10
Stall 1800-2000 RPM
Transmission 700 HP
Double Roller Timing Chain
Solid Lifters Intake 18 Exhaust 20

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Here is my build, dynoed at 268hp to the wheels and 280 ft-lb of torque.

35cid
9.3:1 pistons
Worlds Sportsman II heads (2.02/1.94)
1.54 roller rockers
Lunati Cam (.515/.530 with advertised 268 duration)
3.73 gears
2800 Stall
70R4

It's absolutely fantastic on the street and I use it as my Daily.


For my advice, if you wanted to make it more "mild"

-- The stall converter is fine, a little low, but ok.

-- Swap out the gears for some 3.73's. 4.11's are just a bit too high for street use. You'llneed to recalibrate the speedo if you do this though.

-- Stick with a 700R4 and build it to handled 500HP. Unless you go nuts with the motor, you won't need any more than that. Call Dana at Pro-Built automatics and he'll hook you up. Don't get a Th400 or Th300, you'll come to love the Overdrive of the 700R. If it's already one of those, then no point in changeing it out, just get the lower gears...but the 700R will make it much more friendly on the street.

--Get a Qjet, or go back to TPI. The Holley is fine though and would be less work for you to keep it.

-- For exhaust, Go and get a Magnaflow Catback. Good throaty sound at WOT but very mellow and reserved when just cruising around.


This wold make your car run much better on the "Street" as you would want it to, but no need to do in-depth engine mods to get it more streetable.

Hell, if you have a 700R4 already, then I'd say all you need is exhaust and to change the gears. The rest is money for a sweet street car.

SLEEPER 86

Unless you know the exact specs for your cam there isn't much I can help you with. Can you get the cam card or grind number from the guy who built it? What mufflers are you using?

Briandrex

I'm pretty sure the transmission is a 700R4. The car is automatic with 1st 2nd D and OD. I was told by the guy that built the engine that the transmission was beefed up to 700HP.

Taking the rear back to 3.73 might actually help my speedo. As it currently sits when the speedometer reads 75 MPH it's actually on 55 MPH.

Thank you for all of the information. The less money I spend modifying this setup will allow for more to be spent on the interior and a new paint job. I just want to make sure I can get my air conditioning, vent, heat and defrost hooked back up as well which will make it better in the mornings. Really sucks to have no defrost first thing in the morning.

Also I have been thinking about changing out the exhaust and putting a crossover pipe on it as well. The setup is two straight pipes with no CAT right now.

Thanks again for all of the great information!

Jono4820

iTrader: (1)

I would sell it as is and buy what you want. Never know the gremlins you will come across adding all the things removed.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Anytime!

Already having a 700R will save you quite a bit. that with 3.73's can get you 20mpg or so on the highway which is pretty good for a carb. IF you get a Qjet, you can push that upwards of 22-24mpg.

IF you don't need emissions, the strait pipes are fine, but you can pick up a decent catback for 200-300. I paid $450 for mine. However, since you have duals on it now, leave it there and spend the money on getting it running first.

Unfortunately, you'll need the ECM I believe to run the cruise. Hooking the air up is big $$, especially if the system is empty and by the sounds of things, it is. That's going to be $600 if you have a bad compressor and then have to get it filled.

The vent issue is because the vaccume lines probably aren't hooked up right for it to run. Or there is an issue under the dash. Get the car running first, then worry about the rest of it.

Briandrex

I have definitely considered it. The one thing holding me back is I want to do a custom paint job and custom interior. I suppose I could do the same with the setup already done the way I want it on an existing one. Anyone want my car? lol

Thanks for the input as it keeps me thinking on how much time and money I want to sink into this current setup vs finding an unmolested z28 350 with relatively low mileage. Decisions decisions.....

Briandrex

It's ashame you don't live closer as I'd invite you over to my garage to take a look at the beast, take a test drive and see what direction you would head in. From the reading I've done on this forum it looks like it's very easy to end up with quite a money pit when all is said and done.

I'm sure the way it runs right now is perfect for the guy that want to take short trips and occasionally head up to the drag strip on Friday night to have some fun. Personally I want that new car feel with the old school look if that makes any sense. Could always go by a new camaro but this is the car I wanted in high school and I can spend a good bit of time just looking at it in my garage and it brings a smile to my face. I'm sure that's why a lot of people on this board have the third gens.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

That's why most of us had them. Me? My cousin owned it and it was the first "sports car" I ever got to ride around in. When she picked up her 2004 Corvette, it came up for sale. Looking back, I"m really torn because I was in Europe at the time and was seriously looking at buying a new (at the time) 2004 BMW M3. I picked the Firebird...my wife isn't happy with my choice, but I am. That said, I've finally got it where I am happy with it but it's taken me 10 years to do it. work on it while you can, enjoy it as you do. You won't be disappointed!

dmccain

iTrader: (2)

If you want a DD man id sell that car and find one that hasnt been hacked up. Someone out there would enjoy this car like it is and be glad to get it.

Briandrex

I've got alot of decisions to make on what to do heading into fall and winter. The car runs great the way it is so it's not like I can't drive it. Part of me would gladly take a low mileage completely stock 1992 5.7L 350. I've seen a couple around my area with around 50K on them for $8K or so. Would be nice to sell mine and pick one of them up. Most I would ever have to do at that point would be my own custom paint and interior, if I wanted.

I guess it just comes down too how much I want to drive the car verses working on it. I own my own business so unfortunately time is eaten up by work without much to spare.

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

Based on what you have said has been done to the car you now own that runs fine by all accounts, I'd swap 3.73 or 3.42 gears into and leave it at that..for now. Then, when you're ready, take it back to fuel injection, provided the harness hasn't been completely mutilated. the 3.73 or 3.42 gears will give you a great highway ride (I have 3.73's and drove it 25 miles to work every day when I lived in England). With stock tire size, it'll run 2600rpm or so at 70mph with the 3.73's. If it's your only car, then I'd have a shop do the swap, it'll take them a day or two at the most adn you'll be up and running.

Briandrex

Here is a picture of my engine bay the way it sits right now. I've been doing a lot of research about the LS1 swap as my neighbor that owns a body shop has expressed interest in trading a complete paint job and body work for my current engine. He will also help me install the LS1 Engine that I would have to purchase. My fear after reading the different write ups on the LS1 swap is that this car will end up in the shop forever performing the swap and paint and I'll never get it back on the road.

I've also thought of selling it the way it is and finding an original non molested low mileage car.

My third thought is to use the money I have to pay my neighbor for the body work and paint job and modify this engine. Can anyone tell me how to find out if this can be converted to TPI? This is a 350 CID Chevy Crate engine that was bored out to 355 CID. The original engine this car came with was a 305 TPI. Also this engine has aluminum heads and solid lifters. People that hot rod their cars out keep telling me that solid lifters will be a lot of work for me because they have to be adjusted a lot and I should change them to hydraulic.

If I keep the car I will definitely being going to 3.73 or 3.42 gears and a catback exhaust. The car runs great other than lately when I gas up or park somewhere when the engine is warmed up it doesn't want to start unless I really pump the gas pedal or let it cool off. From what I've read this could be vapor lock which could be attributed to my holley carburetor setup. This is another reason I'd love to go back to TPI.

25thannivZ28

Looks really nice! I'm in the same boat you were, but I took out my 350 TPI and converted to Carburetor, 406 w/ 850 carb, Vic Jr. intake and a healthy tune. With the higher RPM band, I don't mind the 3200 rpms on the freeway with my 4.10's. I've taken it on trips over 100 miles one way on the freeway no issues. I had to stop for gas a couple times, (insert sarcasm) but otherwise no issues. I also have a 3200 - 3500 stall converter with lock up switch

I got away from F.I. because its over my head in regards to tuning it. Everyone is different, but to me tuning a carb is way easier. As it sits, I can still sit at a stop light in middle of summer with A/C on and engine does not sputter one bit. It won't run much past 190 even on the hottest days.

I think with the right intake manifold, camshaft, exhaust and carb combo on your engine, its easily streetable. As opposed to spending thousands to do a complete motor swap, a few bolt-ons would make it work. Just my opinion, good luck with your projects though, thats a really nice car!

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Agreed. When maintained, these cars are nice dailys in stock form. When you start chucking carbed stuff on there and it gets all custom, it's impossible to know what all is going on with it unless you did the work yourself.

That car would be a lot better for your needs with the old TPI 350 still in it. Do we even know if it has a roller cam block in it anymore?

Since you are still learning, I'd just start worrying about an LS swap. Learn to do that. Learn the wiring, the harnesses. Get a stock truck motor and put a small cam in it, put F-body oil pan and intake and accessories on it, tune it, and just have a good time in it. It'd be streetable, get great gas mileage, and hopefully be more reliable if done properly.

Or you can just buy a stock 92 Z. It'll be a lot slower, but GM did build these cars to last 200k+ miles and be practical. I'm a big believer in modern technology. There's a reason cars are coming stock today with 450hp, and the 70s v8s made 150hp. Even by the 80s they were getting it right and making it reliable. Going back to 60's tech is just a bad idea for everyone except the guys doing competitions and are constantly making changes to the build to optimize it. if you're making changes every other month, the tunability of a carb without needing a computer and a tuning program is a big advantage. But most people dont know how to tune carbs anyway. You build it right once, have a professional tune it, and you're set if you're EFI, and it will run like a top.

I went carb for cost reasons, and if I had the money I'd go EFI in a heart beat. It'd be one thing if I had a 10 second car. But if you're DD'ing a 12-13-14 second car, there's really no good reason to be carbed. EFI can do it, and it will do it better. If I had a stock L98 92 Z, I never would have put a carb in it at all. They only made around 6000 of them, even less of them with the 5.7.

In your case, it will cost a fortune to return it to stock L98 status and that would get it where you want for being able to daily it and drive it comfortably. But you can probably do an LS swap for less money than that, and if done properly it's a serious upgrade worthy of that car. It looks absolutely fantastic and I think you'll enjoy it a lot more that way. Plus you can put a stock blister hood back on it and make it look like it's meant to again.

Phenom-1

I like the way it looks, but if you want to detune it, The way I'd do it would be:


1. Take out the 4.10s for 3.23 Posi gears.
2. Leave the Transmission be since it's already built, just change the speedometer gear to match the 3.23s

3. Get a Flowmaster 80's Series single in & Dual out 3 inch Cat-Back System with 3 inch chrome tips with an angle cut It will sound Nice.
4. Get a stock Power Blister hood.
5. Swap out the 500 lift Cam for a Comp cam lifters set, in stock specs like .441/.457 lift 1.6

6. I'd try that and see if it Tames the car enough to where I like it while still having high rpm power for the street while still being carbureted.

7. After doing those mods, If I still want to go to a TPI setup, then I would, stock they didn't make power after 4500rpm, not enough flow. But with new aluminum heads, Crank, pistons, rods, it should still be more powerful than stock which was 245hp /345trq.

I'd buy a complete TPI setup and have someone deal with computer/ECM/MAP tuning.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I would try "de-tuning" the engine 1st. Sell/swap off some of your parts for parts better matched to your needs.

A carb'ed engine can be a good driver and get good mileage. In one of the 1st engines I built for my camaro it was more like what your wanting. It got 15/16 mpg with a 3 speed auto trans, could drive it across states w/o stopping. In fact I did drive straight 6 hours from GA. to MS. twice in mine, during the summer heat.

If I had a 700r4 overdrive like you do it would had been in the 19 mpg range.

If tuned, dialed in right, set up right a carb will crank up in all weather and drive almost like fuel injection.

Get a 3.23 or 3.42 rear gear rear end. Either trade your whole housing to someone or sell it and buy a junkyard $150 3.23 rear and bolt under yours.

Go with a mild hyd. cam rather than a solid. Something like a 214/224@.050" with around .460"/.480" lift.

The BS about adjusting a solid cam all the time is crap. I don't recommend a solid cam for you, but I just want to point that out. It's not true with today's valve train, cam cores, lifters, poly locks, etc.

I put a solid lifter cam in mine on March 2010. It needed the 1st adjustment, break in on outer springs only, reinstall inner springs, adjust the valves again.. Has only needed 1 more adjusting since. I have checked the lash twice a year, but it has NOT been out of adjustment but the one time, and that was after bouncing off my 7800 rpm rev limiter . That's going on 5 years and needed 1 adjustment.

The heads may be worth keeping and using.. If not trade or sell and get vortec heads and vortec intake.

Again sell or trade the dual 3" exhaust and go with a Y pipe, single 3" pipe, aftermarket cat back

Read all you can about tuning a carb, find a local guy that knows carbs and see if you can get him to show you a few pointers.

Also check and set your timing. Having the timing right plays a big part in fuel mileage, emissions, power and how the car cranks up.

Most of the "hot start" probs where starter drags when engine is hot, turns out to be timing set wrong (too advanced most times)

Hot start fueling probs can be from a choke thats not working right (trying to close) to just the carb tuned wrong.

Research on how to read your spark plugs. Reading your plugs can go a long way with tuning a carb.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Id say "Hot start" problems are usually the starter not playing nice with header heat. That's been my experience. The ministarters make a lot more torque anyway, so even if its too much compression/timing for the stock starter, a newer ministarter should go al ong way towards solving it without forcing you to retune the engine.

Briandrex

Thank you for the response. Your setup looks really nice as well! Lucky you have AC, the one thing the previous owner did on mine was to get rid of the AC as well as the vent, heat and defrost. I know that is the way some people like it but I do want at least a couple of creature comforts.

Posts like yours definitely keep me riding the fence on sticking with what I have and adjusting with bolts-ons as well as making sure the carb and engine are tuned right. Two of the main things that I would definitely do is step down to 3.73 gears and get rid of the dual 3 inch stainless exhaust. I love loud exhausts but this one just won't quiet down. lol

My neighbor which runs his own body shop is interested in the engine for a project of his and is willing to swap the engine for a complete paint job on the car. The car looks good from five feet but definitely needs repainted and some minor body work here and there. The guys does great work and would give me a show car finish in trade. We would also then swap an LS1 into the car after paint at his shop as he has offered to do this with the trade of the engine. Too many decisions and I just want to get driving this beast!

Thanks again for the reply!

Briandrex

I agree with you on the modern technology. I was just explaining this to a friend of mine when he asked me what I really wanted out of this 92 Z28. My explanation was the old school look with new school drive ability. I'm starting to think that in order to achieve that I'm looking at an LS1 engine swap.

I have been doing a lot of reading on line and for the most part it seems pretty straight forward. Just trying to get a feel for how much a decent one will cost me before I get into installing it in the car myself. I realize that I will also be swapping out the trans, exhaust and putting in a completely new wiring harness along with computer. The current wiring harness is butchered at best so it's good to start over on that.

Briandrex

You mention changing the rear to 3.23 Posi when I've been told by others to go with 3.73. Would the 3.23 gears be better in this case than the 3.73? I'm still learning about everything as I go.

Briandrex

Thank you for all of the information. I'm thinking my hot starting could be a timing problem as this did not start happening until we changed all of the spark plugs and wires. I'm wondering if we did something at the distributor when we were doing this?

I may have to pay a visit to my local salvage yard and start hunting around for a different rear. The $150 for a used rear sounds a lot better than the online prices near $400 just for the gears.

DemonYusuke

Take the stall converter back to normal and you will be fine. A high horsepower motor won't kill the driving experience. A track stall converter in your tranny will. My father went through this put a high horse motor in was talked into a stall converter and it drove like **** for DD use. Great on the track though. He switched back to a normal converter and loves to drive it on the street again.

A 4.10 rear end isn't ideal for DD use so I would definitely switch it back down to a stock ratio. My 91 z28 350 tpi runs 3.23 and is a blast to drive.

DemonYusuke

3.73 will give you better acceleration without a doubt vs the 3.23. With the power you have the 3.73 will give you great ride but your more likely to find a stock setup cheaply which should be 3.23 posi or 3.42 for the 91 92 z28s.

Phenom-1

4.11s give you neck snapping acceleration, so do 3.73s just not as extreme. But 3.23s also give great acceleration to push you back into the seat while giving you great RPMs.


That's why I like them so much. It's the best of both world's.

I don't want to be cruising at 70 MPH and be hearing the loud drone of the engine doing 3,000 or 3,500 RPMs that's just unnecessary over revving the engine.

With 3.23s I can be @ 70 turning around 2,200 RPM

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Cool story. You should read the thread before offering "advice". The car has a 1800-2000 stall converter; hardly enough to compromise driveability

Briandrex

This is what happens to me. I'm cruising at high speeds and she never really settles in to a cruising RPM. I'm thinking first thing I need to do is swap out the rear and then start dialing everything in from there.

Also I've been told that I have a lopey cam. Runs great when you are on the gas but hates being at stop lights and stop signs. Kind of reminds me the sound my motorcycle makes if I put the idle down as low as it can go without stalling. I have a Honda VTX1300C and played a bit with the idle just to give it a different sound. I changed back to the factory settings shortly there after as the poor girl sounded starved for fuel.

I truly appreciate every ones input on this. I'm learning as I go but know one thing for sure and that is I want my car to be a third gen Camaro no matter what direction I end up going in. Would be nice to find some other third gen'rs in my neck of the woods. Always better to discuss things in the garage with the car

25thannivZ28

This was my biggest issue, I could not keep my car running, I had to have foot on gas and brake at stoplights and even made sure AC was off at stoplights. Then to get rolling I had to feather the gas. Once I'm rolling, AC back on. Lol

It wasn't just a matter of turning the idle screws in til stumble then back 1/2 turn or whatever. Through my research I found that plugging and playing with different jet sizes, Power valves and air bleeds would fix the problem. Along with adjusting my timing too that was way out of wack. Whatever gave me the highest vacuum reading in Drive is what I stuck with. Also keeping my wideband o2 gauge reading a respectable 12.5 - 13.0. That's how I achieved a flawless idle at 950 in gear and AC turned on. Before my engine swap, I knew nothing about the stuff I did, now I'm glad I did.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Higher stall converters are vital for engines that have powerbands beyond where the stock stall likes to start grabbing. If the engine doesnt make enough power at that RPM, the stock stall converter is going to ruin the driving experience. Gears serve the same purpose. They're all intended to get the car into the RPM range where the engine makes power. For a race car, you optimize it a little more aggressively than you would for a street cruiser, but the same things are still important.

"Stock" gears are anything from 2.73 to 3.73. Just saying "bring it down to stock" doesnt mean much. And it's not like 4.10s are only good for this, 3.73's are only good for that, and 3.42s are only good for this... They are just numerical ratios. They exist on a continuum. I would suggest going with a 3.42. You have a 700r4 so you already have a decently tall overdrive gear (4th gear). 3.42's are a nice gear for the street that wont ruin performance but will keep your highway RPMs manageable. 3.23s are good for stock TPI cars that only make low end torque and have 700r4s with their short first gear. They're pretty much highway gears in my mind. 3.42's are a nice compromise between 3.23s and 3.73s I think. My math says this:

26" tall tire, .78 OD gear, 65mph:
4.10 - 2686
3.73 - 2444
3.42 - 2241
3.23 - 2116

And remember... the stock tachs are notoriously inaccurate. You cannot trust it, ESPECIALLY on the 90-92 cars. The vast majority of them read high, and the older they get, the worse they do it. My car had one of the few that seemed to operate correctly, but when measured it was off by 700 RPMs at cruise. That's a GOOD one. So dont trust the tach so much either.

Does your torque converter lock up? That's one of the things people often skip when they do carb swaps. If the converter doesnt lock the car will feel kind of "odd" if you're used to modern cars. Generally once you get up to cruising speeds and let off the gas to "cruise", you'll feel the car sort of do a quick lurch where the converter locks to the engine and the car cruises. If it doesnt do that, you're always going to have converter slippage on the highway. Some people dont care about this, some people say it will burn up a 700r4... I personally think it just helps a lot to make the car feel "right" when you're driving it.

And Im gonna reiterate... hot start issues are because the car isnt stock. You could beh aving vapor lock, the starter may be too hot from header heat, or the timing may be too far advanced, etc. The only real fix available to you is a modern ministarter. (93-97 F-body starters are a very common swap. They're lighter, smaller, turn the engine over faster, are less prone to heat soak, and are more powerful) You're dealing with someone else's project. You're just going to have to get your hands dirty and learn about how it all works.

You say you have a 650cfm holley, is it a double pumper? Many will tell you double pumpers are bad street carbs, but good race carbs. I have a DP and I've fussed with it a lot over the years, but in general Im a believer in them. They're just extremely tune-able, so there's a LOT of baseline settings you have to slog through and get right before moving on to the next thing on the list. They're great carbs if you know how to tune an engine. There's no "just turn this screw here and it will work okay 90 percent of the time" type setting, so they can be unforgiving at times.

I would learn as much as you can about how to tune holleys (this will help you a lot when you do an engine swap later, even if you stay fuel injected, because it's good to know how to tune an engine) and how to tune engines. You have to know both to get it right, and tuning the carb goes hand in hand with tuning the timing. You need to learn how the HEI system works. How vacuum advance, mechanical advance, base timing, etc all work. Then you learn how the idle circuits in the carb work, the power circuits, transition circuits, and the accelerator pump circuits etc. These are all things that fuel injected cars do via computers and sensors, but the carb systems do them through analog methods, and they all need to be tuned to work right with each other. It's not as bad to learn as it sounds, though.

92RS shearn

I think the question is do you want a project car or a daily driver that may need some mantainance? The car you have now sounds fun but doesn't seem to really meet your needs. You are going to spend thousands on putting the hvac back together by a shop I would estimate and then a lot more on swaping out gears, exhaust and whatever else to get it the way you want it.
An unmolested stock car with fuel injection and an intact HVAC that does not have mystery parts removed or hacked up wiring would probably make your life easier in the long run .
Whatever you choose have fun with what you have.

Briandrex

I definitely want a car I can drive when I want. This car will never be my daily driver as it's a second car. Just want to be able to take it to the office when I don't feel like driving my truck. I know that I can get it to that point but the main factors are time and money.

I'm the kind of person that appreciates something more when I build it or help build it. This is the main reason I haven't sold the car to look for a low mileage model yet. Part of me really wants to find a low mileage model and enjoy it the way it was back in the day.

I do agree though that whatever I decide will be fun. Always loved this style of cars and the love only grows.

Briandrex

Spoke with the gentleman that built the engine for awhile yesterday and here were some of his suggestions.

Change the gearing from 4.10 to 3.42. He recommended Richmond Gears as that is what is currently installed. Would I be better off changing the gears on the current rear or picking up a used one and swapping them out? From the threads on here it appears that changing the gears myself may be a little out of my league as I noticed I would need some tooling that I currently don't have in my garage.

Next suggestion he had was to change the roller rockers from 1.6 to 1.52 and instead of the solid lifters to go with hydraulic anti pump. His idea being that this would mild it out some but also avoid me having to change the cam which as it sits right now is a little over .500 lift. With the changes of the roller rockers he felt this would get my cam lift under .500.

I know that I will also have to check the timing as well as dial in the carburetor. This car really runs great above 3000 RPMS but at lower speeds there is a really strong fuel smell and I think this could be the reason for my tough starts when hot. Could possibly be flooded when I come to a stop and shut her down.

My question is if I make the changes above can I go with a TPI setup instead of the carburetor? If I do this I will have to purchase another computer and wiring harness as the current harness is butchered. With everything back to the TPI setup I'm thinking I will have a better shot at getting my plumbing for my AC/Vent/Heat back together. I'm not overly concerned about AC but would definitely like a functioning vent, heat and defrost.

If I can get through all of that and I'm satisfied then I may go with the exhaust changes that others have mentioned in previous posts.

padak

iTrader: (10)

I can't believe people told you to sell the car, pull the motor, etc. Insane.

The two cheapest and easiest thing you can do, are changing the gears, since like you said it runs highway speeds at high RPMS (that's what 4.10's do..) and change the CAM. I would bet it make's it a little mild for you and you can drive it for awhile and if you don't like it, sell it, swap it, or convert it to TPI if you want. I personally wouldn't go TPI if you already have a beautiful setup that runs, you just need to tweak it to what you want.

Also, just find a car in the junkyard that already has all the AC, heater, and defrost stuff and yank it out and install it in your car.

padak

iTrader: (10)

You call a complete running car, a Project? lol From the description and him noting it has 4.10 gears, it's just a bitch to drive on the highway, hello, what auto 4.10 isn't? Swap down to 3.23,3.42, etc and mild CAM and he has the street car he wants..

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

You can fit AC/heat/vent on a carb'ed engine just as easy as a TPI engine. After all the stock early third gens came factory with a carb and working ac/heat/vent. That should not be a deal breaker for you at all. Very easy to add the AC system back.

Did the builder mention cam duration and LSA. This is more important than lift for the running of the engine.

A lot of your redlight stop probs can be tuned out, you just need to know how and maybe find someone that can help you do this.

It's all in the timing, dist advance curve and carb settings.

Big cam engines likes A LOT of timing at idle, but that also adds too much total timing, so you need to limited the mech. advance, bring in lots of timing at idle, add in vac advance to full vac port on carb, and keep total timing in range.

W/o vac advance hooked up, I'm talking about 16-20* btdc at idle on your timing, limit mech advance to add 12-18* for a total of 32-38*... Then add in another 10-15* of timing at idle with the vac advance.

Then move to the carb.

You need a vac gauge, and a dial back/digital timing light for sure to get this thing tuned/dialed in right.

Knowing the cam duration and engine compression would really help here.
Atleast get a vac gauge on it and tell use your idle vac. I don't see anywhere you said you had power brake probs, so I'm thinking the cam aint 'that big'. For the PB to work right you need at least 10-12" hg vac... Really big cams puts you in the 3-8" hg range (like mine, 249/252@.050", .570"/.579" lift)

Also it would be great if you could get a cyl pressure # for us by using a compression gauge and checking the cranking compression.

Know the above info, we can make a good guess on your true timing needs, cam size, etc.

I know I will get blasted for this comment, but here goes....

A well tuned carb, dialed in by a person that knows what they are doing will run just as good as any EFI system.. Have the same type throttle response, and fuel mileage..

The only downfall is they can not self adjust on the fly as you drive.

Now onto the rocker arms, lifters, etc.. Yes you can put lower ratio rocker, verible bleed lifters, etc and all of that will help.... BUT

At that point, if you are just trying to over come too big of a cam, why not just swap out the cam for the correct one you need.

Cam kits are $100-300....
Those anti pump up lifters are $90-160
Rocker arms can range from $100-500.

Briandrex

I just went a saw a buddy of mine that has his own shop and we are going to go over a plan tomorrow. First thing he said was change the gears in the rear and a new cam. Once we have that we can work on the timing and tuning the carburetor.

Glad to hear from someone that I have a decent setup that just needs some tweeking.

Briandrex

I will see about getting a cylinder pressure when it goes in to my buddies shop. I'm hoping once we go over everything tomorrow I will walk away with a good plan of attack. Some of the work I may do myself and other parts such as the rear I'll probably have him take care of.

There is a very good junkyard near me that I'm sure if I stay on top of weekly I will be able to get all of the AC and Heating stuff I need at a reasonable price.

All I need to do is get this girl tuned in, get some air flow back in my vents and I'll be looking good. Once all that is sorted out I can start thinking about a different exhaust, suspension and last but not least interior and exterior.

Gotta say it's nice to have a forum that supports these cars when others are so quick to trash them.