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Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 10:46 PM
  #1  
iroc88z-28's Avatar
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Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

I am going to give every detail about my car, because I have no clue what is wrong. (For just the details and not the story go to bottom)

I swapped blocks and then drove it for 3 week. Changed the oil and filter at 1000 mile (3 weeks). It then started to burn oil. It also started making a metal clinking sound, but only when starting it. Found out the intake manifold seal was leaking oil so I pulled it and resealed it. It still burned oil.

Drove it for 1 week then went out in the morning started it put it in reverse and it died. Left it there all day, came back and it ran fine. Few days later it started to stall and die when putting it in gear. Also sputtered a few times while driving but not every time.

Then while driving it died. I got it started, the died again and started again.
Died a third time and wont fire at all, I had to tow it home.

(Details)
Turns over fine. Can smell gas. Can hear fuel pump. It's getting gas, I don't have a gauge though so I'm not sure the pressure is correct. Gets spark.
Seems to have oil on spark plug.
A few putters here and there, and that is all it does.

swap 305 block to 350 block w/ 488 lift cam
fuel injected TPI
new fuel pump & filter & relay
new alternator
new distributor
new stater
new ignition switch
new MAF burn off relay

@ 1000 miles (week 3)
oil & filter change
oil burning
metal clink started
@ week 4
found and fixed intake manifold seal leak
@ week 5
fired then died in gear a few days
ran a few days, but sputtered some days
then died while driving and now wont fire

Last edited by iroc88z-28; Sep 25, 2014 at 09:41 AM.
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Old Sep 24, 2014 | 11:53 PM
  #2  
dixie wrecked's Avatar
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Car: 91 ws6
Engine: Carb'd 334 stroker
Transmission: T5
Carb or fi?
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Old Sep 25, 2014 | 09:41 AM
  #3  
iroc88z-28's Avatar
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Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

sorry fi TPI
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 06:24 AM
  #4  
dabcosr's Avatar
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From: South Central PA
Car: IROC
Engine: 305 TPI
Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

Could the distributor have shifted throwing the timing off
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 09:21 AM
  #5  
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Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

I may not be the best , but , Your description sounds like it could be a weak spark . You say you have spark , but in what strength ? A nice fat blue spark that'll jump a 1/2 inch gap in free air , or a crackly lil fizzle that gets lost in the dark scary cylinder when the pressure is put to it ? I know you said it's got a new distributor , but are you SURE the correct thermal compound was under the ICM when it was mounted to it ? At this point I'd be at least testing the ICM to see if it's actually working as brand new doesn't always = perfect operating condition . If you truly DO have a proper spark , a fuel pressure test would have to be next , since smelling fuel and hearing the pump run are not 100% proof that your rails are actually at the proper pressure .
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Old Sep 26, 2014 | 11:33 AM
  #6  
ASE doc's Avatar
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From: Aurora, OR
Car: 87 IROC Z28
Engine: 355 cid TPI
Transmission: Custom Built 700R4 w/3,500 stall
Axle/Gears: QP fab 9" 3.70 Truetrac
Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

I agree that you need to start with the basics. The GM HEI should produce 40 KV of spark, which should jump a 1/2 inch gap with a bright, load snapping, blue arc. Be sure to check spark on a few cylinders to be sure. Pull each plug and look for fouling that may be preventing combustion. Verify 40psi of fuel pressure at the test port on the RH rail with the engine cranking. Also, with what you're saying about this motor, a compression test is definitely in order. Start with cranking compression by removing the two injector fuses in the fuse panel, then with the pedal to the floor, crank the engine and listen for a normal cranking rhythym. If it sounds okay, then use a gauge to check pressure on a cylinder while cranking with the pedal to the floor. The reading you get will be affected by the duration of the cam. But if it's not at least 120, the engine may not start.

Verify timing while a helper cranks the motor. Be sure it's around the factory setting, or 4-8 degrees BTDC should work to start the engine. Unplug the MAF sensor with the key off, this puts the ECM in default(CALMAP) fuel mode, then try to start the motor. If it starts and runs this way, the MAF system has an issue.

Is this a flat tappet cam? Was it installed with new lifters and proper assembly lube? Was it broken in at 2,000-2,500 rpm, immediately after the initial engine start, with a high zinc oil additive? If it is a flat tappet cam and wasn't installed and broken in correctly, you may have wiped lobes. Look for metal in the oil.

Last edited by ASE doc; Sep 26, 2014 at 11:40 AM.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 03:08 PM
  #7  
Aerizanthar's Avatar
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From: Morgantown WV
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: THM 700R4
Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

i'm going to throw in my two cents here and maybe it helps, maybe not. My friend had a truck once where the oil dipstick tube rusted out. so he kept dumping oil in it til it wouldn't start. It's probably the most basic derp you can do, but is there too much oil in it? I hope I'm wrong
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 04:01 PM
  #8  
iroc88z-28's Avatar
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Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

A new coil fixed it.
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Old Oct 9, 2014 | 11:01 PM
  #9  
Aerizanthar's Avatar
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Posts: 161
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From: Morgantown WV
Car: 1984 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 2.8L V6
Transmission: THM 700R4
Re: Car wont fire. A puzzle for the best out there.

Great to hear its fixed and wasnt something like my unlucky post happy trails
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