I've been debating a cam swap using either a hot cam or the Crane Cams SB Chevy Compucam 2032 Cam Hydraulic Roller 104224

the hot cam runs around $220, while the crane goes for around $400-490. Im on a budget though and aint chitin out dead presidents, so I searched and searched and found a heck of a deal i'd like to share


Lunati's HYD roller with similar specs to the GM hot cam is overstocked and available for 70$ plus shipping p/n 20080130 brand new from Lunati's web site. They only have 9 left. I just called and ordered mine.

its a bolt in replacement upgrade cam. Its compatable with the stock TPI and will bolt right in. They recommended new single valve springs part number 73943-16 which has 1.750 installed height and was about $70 because the lift on this cam is 503 with 1.5 stock rockers

some of the cam specs are
•Advertised Duration (Intake/Exhaust): 276/286
•Duration @.050" (Intake/Exhaust): 218/228
•Gross Valve Lift (Intake/Exhaust): .503"/.503"
•Lobe Seperation: 112
•Intake Center Line: 108
•RPM Range: 1800-5800


again, this is a better cam than the hot cam, and much cheaper than the crane. Plus is is brand new from Lunati

I also bought new Viton valve seals for $20 part number 78562-16

Lunati's number is #662-892-1502 I spoke with "Mike" at ext 3004, he seemed rather knowledgable of our third gen motors

thought i'd share incase anyone else is contemplating a cam swap on the cheap like me

specs on the cam, ignore the retail price
http://www.lunatipower.com/Product.aspx?id=2607

 

Wow great deal! Considering one for my 305!

 

you better believe it man!!! hell of a deal on a brand new roller cam

especially one that just bolts in and is compatable with factory TPI

 

Yes, I am on my second Lunati camshaft myself. Actually spoke to the employee who designed my cam over at Lunati, and he really knew his stuff, especially with SBC's. Sticking with Lunati from this point forward...

 

I thought that he crane 2032 cam was the largest cam you could run in a stock l98 (with springs, etc.). And I thought that 1.6 springs were the largest you could run?

 

from my understanding you can use the crane 2032 cam with the stock springs, but anything over like 480 lift or so you need upgraded springs

i'm sure someone on here knows exactly what the stock springs will max out at

 

Well then, does anyone knows if this cam will hurt drive ability, MPG (I know, but it's my DD), and what else needs to be installed?

The only things that I have upgraded are the ignition, custom chip, and the cam has been sapped out for an flat tappet Melling mtc-1 (Obviously I'd need some roller lifters for the cam swap). I plan on getting a fill exhaust soon, so I'm sure that will definitely help.

 

Is it an oem roller block?

It will need a tune. Your current custom chip likely wont be close enough

 

It's (supposedly) an '87 l98 block with a flat tappet cam swapped in, but it should still have the roller provisions inside.

 

is anyone on here running this cam in there TPI? hoping someone chimes in that actually has this cam

 

that would be a nice cam in a 305.

 

I just bought one of these cams for my car..has anybody else?

my car is a 89 stock tpi with a borla catback. I have wanted to keep it stock but a cam has always been on my mind. I could not resist the price.

buying a cam for my car has always been a big can of worms an ends with might as well buy a crate motor.

I will not be doing anything to soon but would like some thoughts on how it's going to work. I hear you guys that an adjustable fp would be good to have an I think that will be no problem. 89 being a maf car this should work in my favor right. this cam seems a little big for a completely stock tpi am I not right. I've had my car for over 15 yrs have an been on here for awhile an have read most of this stuff in the past. I have been working on my car for awhile it's in good shape 115k just looking to have a little more fun an rumble out of it. If anybody installs this cam I would like to follow how it works sorry I can't be that guy. my thoughts are that if I install I may want to ready to do the intake too...or maybe just some bigger runners would do...like I said can of worms..hopefully somebody can give some insight...

good cam for a 305 can mean a lot of things. the man I talked to recommended beehive springs an a stall converter an a tune. so I just bought the cam. I'm not ready to commit to this just yet. springs for sure when the time comes not sure what kind for my purposes though being able to rev

 

Things you need to worry about with any cam swap on stock heads:

1) max lift on stock heads isnt always set by spring spec! Retainer to guide boss or valve seal is usually the issue and thats commonly listed as .470" give or take.
Ways around this? Shaved retainers like Alex's Parts spring kit for .550" lift. Or beehive springs as the retainer is usually thinner and may get you .510-.530". Or you run shims under springs and +.050" offset locks or retainers to gain .050" over the guide boss. This gets you near .520" lift capacity give or take. Bottom line is you need to measure.
If you dont do those you should machine the heads for screw in studs and shave bosses down for the lift you wish to run

2). Engine tune! Sure some setups may run ok without tune but there is alot left on the table with proper adjustments to factory settings. Hell stock cars gain with tunes, let alone modded cars. You either buy the equip to do it yourself or find someone to do it

 

Thanks a lot Orr,,I have thoughts on cam, lifters, rockers an valves in the future..just to keep it good to go. so with that in mind is there another way, would longer valves give me what I need..I have a friend with a mill if that could be used to get what I need. screw in studs I can do that right. I'm not afraid to get technical.. Dan

 

"mike" the tech at Lunati told me that he could sell me the whole valve train "kit", but it wasn't necessary, he said he's worked in this industry and was very familiar with the TPI's and that all I needed was those springs I referenced above....and while in there it wasn't a bad idea to replace the valve guides either (a wear item) he said I didn't really need to replace the retainer, locks and keepers etc

I felt confident because he wasn't trying to sell me a bunch of stuff, instead seemed like he was trying to save me some money as I said I was on a budget big time, was nice for once that a salesman was helping save money instead of the usual trying to sell you a bunch of stuff you may not even need

hoping he was on the mark

 

Longer valve would do it but need to make sure springs are designed for the taller install height. Most stockish heads are installed at 1.7-1.8". +.100" valve would give you height but now your geometry of pushrod and rocker start to get alittle harder to keep correct. May need a taller rocker stud as well

 

Thanks Bigarmzz for the heads up on this cam...it's been a fast couple days looking into this...keep us posted would ya.....

 

sure no prob man, I wont get around to having this installed until the spring though, but shoot.....$70 for a brand new roller cam for a TPI was soo freakin cheap I couldn't pass it up!

I talked to one of the guys at harris performance inc (tpichips.com) about the deal on these cams and he seemed like he was interested in buying several at that price

 

cam came yesterday an the cam card says to use 73943-16 spring an thats what i will use when the time comes. same as op subjested...

75742 retainers 77003- 16 locks also on the card.... Dan

 

sounds good, you gonna have this put in soon? i'm prob not gonna have mine put in til in the spring

 

I'll do the work Bigarmzz and it won't be till after spring,,,I'm planning on moving an getting more room to work in the spring.

 

ok, i'm just really curious how this thing works with the stock TPI set up....guess i'll find out eventually myself

 

I have one in my closet that I was going to put into a 355 LT1 that was going into my 1980 Corvette. I am going with a milder 350 in it. The Lunati cam may end up in my 97 Express van.

 

if you end up using that in your van fast355, post up your opinions on it? thanks

 

If I had a stock or stockish Tuned Port 305 or 350 I would have a hard time not using this cam. I built a 350 Vortec with one for an Escalade and it would get up and go in that Escalade. Check out the Elgin E1136

Chev 305-350 ('87-'94 w/OE Roller Lifters)
Adv. Duration: 288/284
Duration @ .050": 210/215
Lift: .462/.470
Lobe Center: 110
1500-5200. Mild street, improved power.

http://www.competitionproducts.com/E.../products/389/

 

looks like a good cam for $200.....

with the lift being .462/.470 you could use the stock springs couldn't you? then the cam you posted below would be a "bolt in" deal...or is that lift borderline too much for the stock springs on a L98?

 

The newest L98 is over 20 years old. That being said I would replace the springs for maintenence alone. Retainer to seal clearance or spring bind should not be an issue with only .470" lift on the TPI heads. A simple, cheap set of Z/28 springs with ~110 lbs installed seat pressure should be plenty to run this cam. With the TPI maxing out before 5,500 rpm and the relatively mild ramp rate this cam has it really does not need a huge, aggressive spring rate or massive seat pressure to keep the lifter from lofting over the cams flank. One other note, if your heads have valve rotators you will need to replace them with retainers to clear these springs.

http://www.alexsparts.com/products/S...-MAX-LIFT.html

 

I use the 10030 in my 75 l31 5 speed Vega and it is a good street cam with my setup. Not sure how well it would work in a fuel injected setup. It for sure would require some tuning.

The Vega loves the torque this combo puts out. It peaks out right under 6k rpm.

 

What converter would anyone recommend for this cam ?

 

I run with a stick but would ASSume a stock torque convertor would be fine. It pulls hard by 3k but feels like a stock 350 below.

 

which is exactly why I would run a minimum 2800 stall 9.5" converter to be able to enjoy this cam on the street, as well as let it perform to a decent potential if you ever want to try it at the strip (for really good strip performance, you'd want a minimum 3600 converter).
I have an Edge 2800 9.5" behind a ZZ3 (208/221/112) cammed 350 with 3.73 gearing in the car below; it's perfect for all around driving, but I would put a Yank SS3600 in it if I wanted to improve the 1/4 mile performance and still retain good street manners.

 

For a low $$$ alternative one can use a 4.3 "W" S10 converter. So long as the transmission is a 700r4 from mid 84 up with the 30 spline input shaft. It has great street manners and has a ~2,600-2,800 rpm flash stall. I have driven an 87 Firebird that my brother and I swapped in a ~400 hp 350 in. It is a bit of a monster. With the S10 converter and 3.73 posi also robbed from a S10 Blazer first gear is almost useless on the street.

 

Any part # on this s10 converter ? Where is the best place to get it ?

 

Both of those converters (vette/s10 and 9.5" Edge 2800)works fine with that cam.I had first that vette 2080rpm stall speed converter, and after trans failure I ordered edge 2800.Vette converter is more "daily driver" oriented.It stalls ~2600rpm behind my engine(355sbc, eq vortecs,218/228cam,th700,3,42~,3670lbs with driver 12.7/107.7mph)

 

where do you buy your s10 converters from ? dealer ? autozone has a dacco brand one ?

 

ray jr, where are you located?
I have one I could sell you, but shipping would nearly double my asking price!
I'm west of Cincinnati.

 

O dam if they still have a cam left on pay day I am getting one for my dads 383. Or I will just keep it as an extra for my vortec motor

 

Dam I just seen how old this post was

 

They show 6 still available as of 1/9/20015

http://www.lunatipower.com/News.aspx?id=116

 

Bought the last one today.

 

I just purchased this 20080130 camshaft and 73943K1 valve spring kit yesterday. I am installing these parts in a 1991 LB9 305 TPI. I am in the process of overhauling the engine. I will degree the camshaft to spec when I install. I may change the torque converter, but not sure as of yet. I have the rear axle removed, as I am also repainting the car. I have installed a 4:10 gear in the rear, so that will help the low end to get the car moving.

 

are you keeping the tpi ? if so those 4.10's might be alittle steep ..

 

IMO those springs cost to much, if your going to use the 081 heads you will need to cut down the guides. I purchased the same cam and am going to use a set of 128 heads port the exhaust side and use lt4/zz4 springs.

 

I believe the 4.10 gear will be fine for what I am looking for. I debated on a 4:56 gear, but settled on the 4.10. Also the spring kit from Lunati part number 73943K1 for $127.93 with retainers and locks is a good price. I will take it any day with a new roller camshaft for $70.00

 

What intake you gonna use ?

 

The original TPI with 21 lb injectors. I will get it figured out when I get the car back together. I am also going to add stainless steel three step headers.

 

Sorry I thought you went with 74818k5, the spring pressure seems alittle high for oe roller lifter.But im sure lunati wouldn't steer you wrong
If you have bosh 3 injectors you might want to raise the pressure to 50 psi. Or consider going back together with 22#hr injectors.

 

It is going to be just a simple build. I have a few friends who run NHRA Stock Eliminator with TPI engines, and I may also go with a FAST or Holley computer control system. My goal is to have this car back together by summer. I will let you know how it progresses and what I had to do to get this engine running the way I need it to run.

 

Damn I am bummed I missed this deal!!!

 

I completed the engine overhaul and using this Lunati camshaft and springs. Engine runs good, just a tad of a rough idle. Good sounding camshaft. When I complete this build, I will advise how the engine runs. I just did a rebuild on the engine, cleaned, vatted the block and new cam bearings and freeze plugs, honed the block, installed new piston rings, and ground the valves and installed the Lunati valve springs, retainers, and seals. Finishing up painting the car, and installing the interior.