For starters, I did try and google this stuff beforehand and I tried using the search option on the site. Either I found information that I just couldn't really understand, or I couldn't find anything specific about this block or what my next step is.

This may be quite long and I HIGHLY appreciate any help I can get with this.
I just bought a bare block today. Was told it's a 350 2 bolt main. I have no reason to doubt the guy. This is the casting number 14093638. He also told me it's a 87-94 block. So, that's the first part.

I have never built an engine before (well, i've only built a couple 4 bangers).
I have a 92 RS with a completely stock 305 (converted to carb from TBI).

A bunch of "he said" stuff below:
What the hell do I do.. I was told that I can actually use most of my 305 parts (crank, rods, heads, intake, carb) with the valves needing to be "widened"? the crank rebalanced? And I don't know the difference between roller cam or flat tappet or how to know which kind I need. Someone told me it was roller because of 3 bolt holes on the top, and something about a spider link?

How do I know what kind of cam I need?
...if i need it machined
...anything, i'm clueless

I'm not looking for a straight top notch performance engine.
It will most likely be my daily driver from work and back, and maybe a couple cruises since I intend on completely restoring it (it's the heritage edition). But I want enough power to have some good fun with it.

Can anyone help me? I know i'm asking alot, and sorry if this is the wrong forum for this. Just needing a crash course on this engine so I can give my baby girl what she needs. Thanks for any help received

Gonna try and post a pic of the block.

 

first off, if it was my car, and it was a tbi car and the heads were not changed when the carb was put on, i would go for a set on different heads (it should be swirl port heads and they do not flow good enough for a 350, imo) the cam will depend on what heads you go with, unless you are going to turn 7000 rpms in it all the time, i would go with hydraulic roller lifers and a cam to match ... your 305 should already have the lifters ... some factory tpi heads that have been ported just a little should be able to make 300 hp with a good carb, cam, and intake ... 300hp in a third gen is enough to be fun ... just my

 

also, this is what that casting number came back as
http://www.castingnumbers.info/site/detail/151/14093638

 

Thanks Barlow, so should I go with the 305 heads for the better compression and just have them machined? Money is kind of my issue. And awesome, good to know the guy was being straight up with me about the info. There's just no parts with the block at all, complete bare block, just not sure on what kind of parts I should be getting for it.

So the crank and rods CAN be used? Just need to get the crank re-balanced?

 

305 crank should be rebalanced if it is used with heavier 350 pistons.What condition are the cylinder bores in?-if they are worn or damaged to the point a rebore will be needed,might be cheaper/easier to start with a complete used 350 in decent condition instead- especially if it can be dropped in and used as is.most '87-95 will be most compatable with '92 camaro.If the bare block is built up into an engine,beware most"rebuilder"pistons will sit down in the bore .020-.030 or more-affecting compression and quench.

 

Well the cheapest 350s I was actually able to find around here people were wanting about $600-$800 for. Which I don't have. So I got this block Cuz it's not cracked and only cost me $100. Not sure on exact condition of the cylinders, I'm actually picking it up tomorrow. The guy said he was gonna turn it into a stroker (no idea what that is) but he ended up putting a vortec? In it. It's easier for me to come up with $300 at a time for parts than it is $600-$800. So I need the crank rebalanced then. I was gonna bring it to a machine shop and try to come up with a game plan for it. Someone had mentioned getting it got tank'd, bored, honed, and zero something on the surface? I do apologize for my lacking of knowledge about this stuff, that's why I came here.

 

Well ur machine work is gonna b 5-700$ easy ... zero decked ... which means the mill the deck where the heads bolt on so the piston is 0.000" in the hole so u then get a 0.038--0.040 head gasket for perfect quench

 

Yea I understand that. Luckily for me the guy that works at this machine shop is the only one there that does machine work and he's back up about a month, so I can make some steady payments each week so it'll be paid off by the time I'm able to pick it up. So I'm pretty much counting on that

 

imo, if you have to pay to to have some heads reworked, get some used heads from the salvage yard ... the swirl port heads on the 305 have small valves and are restricted in airflow ... they are not good heads imo ... i bet someone on here will help you out with a set of better heads for a small fee ... i would look around if i were you

 

I have some trick flow super 23 175's I may part with but THEY ain't Goin cheap I paid 1300 I believe and not taking less than a G plus shipping

 

Do not use ANY swirl port heads ,, look around locally for TPI preferably L98 or vortec heads , u don't want 305 heads on ur new 350, if u could find some factory GM aluminum heads that would b great , and when he said stroker he was going to put a 400 sbc crank into a 350 to make a 383 .. if u build this ur self u need to match all components to work together like cam heads intake etc. Everything in the engine needs to b matched to work in the same power band and b able to support each other

 

Ok so NO swirl port heads. And why not the 305 heads? I was told it was good for better compression but to make sure I make the valves bigger. But hey, what do I know eh? Lol. So L98 or Vortec heads. And those should be aluminum?

 

i suggest picking up a book like this somewhere;

you can even find them in book stores or parts stores.

i mean it with no offense. it's a great way to learn a lot of things about what your about to drop a large investment on.

first thing to do IMO is, drop the block off at a machine shop to check it over.

 

I am HIGHLY offended! Ha, just kidding, I understand, i'll look around for the book, I wouldn't mind having something like that, I have alot to learn. Thanks brother.

 

And ask around at local car shows meets etc. For a GOOD machine shop !!! I cannot emphasize this enough ... u can drop 100 k $ in a motor and if the machine work away u might as well flush it down the toilet ... I drove 4 hrs 1 way just to find a legit machine shop in a fairly big city (Memphis TN ) ... and I still double checked EVERYTHING when I got it back with a set a micrometers and snap gauges

 

Sounds like good advice to me. Also If you need some machine work we are a little closer. We are not a machine shop, we build engines but we like to do machine work for knowledgeable people.

 

Where are u located

 

The 305 heads will bump up compression, but they still don't flow much air. Even with larger valves, they fall way short on the airflow.

The 305 heads on a 350 trick was an old early 80's thing done on the dirt tracks and paved ovals to try to get more power in a tight RPM band while still fitting the class rules.

Heads have came along way from there. Now a set of stock 1996-2001 L31 350 vortec truck heads out flows most all of the aftermarket performance heads of the 70's/80's, highest flowing gen 1 stock production sbc head ever made. Beats all of the fuelie, camel hump, double hump heads of the 300, 350, 370 HP 327's and 350's of the 60's and 70's.

Todays aftermarket heads flows even better.

Your very basic machine work on block will be..
Hot tank cleaned
Magnafluxed (checked for cracks)
bore and hone
pin fit pistons (press old pistons off rods, new pistons on rods)
Install cam bearings
Install freeze plugs

This will be in the $300-400 range.

 

Just north of Birmingham, check us out. http://www.performancespecialtiesinc.com