Last attempt before junkyard
Last attempt before junkyard
I have posted so many things on here trying to get help of some kind. However, the posts dry up and I no longer get any info. My firebird will NOT start. It did great before I pulled the heads and rebuilt them. When i turn key on there is no fuel prime or any dash lights. When i turn key all the way to start, the brake light illuminates and temp gauge rises.Especially no security light. I have replaced ECM, ICM, and the vats anti theft relay behind driver side kick panel. If i hold key in start position and manually operate the anti theft relay, the motor will turn over and i can hear the fuel pump keeping up with the prime. I cannot get a SES light when jumping the proper pins on ALDL. All dash bulbs are good. I did the part where you put a specific resistor in series with the vats wires on steering column. That does not work. I also checked resistance of key and got the same reading from the wires under the dash going to vats system. That rules out a bad connection between key and vats. ALL fuses and fusible links are good. The battery is fully charged.
The radiator fan has been aftermarket with toggle switch and relay. I removed and plugged the coolant switch that turned stock radiator fan on. It was brittle and fell away. I guess that is why the fan wound up after market.
The air bag bulb was missing and i replaced it. It flashed some sort of trouble code and wouldn't stop. I figured maybe that has something to do with the missing bulb.
I have even fooled with the neutral safety switch with no luck. There is probably more i could share but I'm hoping something throws up a red flag.
The radiator fan has been aftermarket with toggle switch and relay. I removed and plugged the coolant switch that turned stock radiator fan on. It was brittle and fell away. I guess that is why the fan wound up after market.
The air bag bulb was missing and i replaced it. It flashed some sort of trouble code and wouldn't stop. I figured maybe that has something to do with the missing bulb.
I have even fooled with the neutral safety switch with no luck. There is probably more i could share but I'm hoping something throws up a red flag.
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 99
From: Huntsville AL
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
First off, what year Firebird/engine size?
Secondly......did you happen to re-connect the grounds that were attached to the rear of the heads?
Secondly......did you happen to re-connect the grounds that were attached to the rear of the heads?
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
It is a throttle bodied 305. Yes i did connect them to 'a' ground. Unfortunately the 3 ground wires had to be cut in order to remove head. The bolt for them was rounded off. I have re-grounded them to the bolt on the master cylinder base (easily accessible if necessary) . It is a good ground. I checked with multimeter. Maybe that is an issue. Although I also noticed that a positive voltage was present at these 3 individual wires ranging in voltage from 8v to 10v. I figured maybe a faulty component in electrical system could cause this?
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 99
From: Huntsville AL
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
"I also noticed that a positive voltage was present at these 3 individual wires ranging in voltage from 8v to 10v. I figured maybe a faulty component in electrical system could cause this?"
Yeah, you got a short somewhere. That's A LOT of voltage to be on the ground side of things.
Hate to say it, but start tracing some pinched wires around the heads, you must of crushed/pinched a wire in that area.
Good luck
Yeah, you got a short somewhere. That's A LOT of voltage to be on the ground side of things.
Hate to say it, but start tracing some pinched wires around the heads, you must of crushed/pinched a wire in that area.
Good luck
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 99
From: Huntsville AL
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
NO NO NO !!!!!
That is your problem right there , those grounds which came from the cylinder head(s) 100% MUSTconnect to the engine !
You have , in effect , grounded what already are "body grounds" to the body , when what they need is to be connected to the engine . Take them off of the master cyl and mount them good and secure to the engine .
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Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 3,938
Likes: 99
From: Huntsville AL
Car: 88GTA
Engine: 5.7TPI
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
NO NO NO !!!!!
That is your problem right there , those grounds which came from the cylinder head(s) 100% MUSTconnect to the engine !
You have , in effect , grounded what already are "body grounds" to the body , when what they need is to be connected to the engine . Take them off of the master cyl and mount them good and secure to the engine .
That is your problem right there , those grounds which came from the cylinder head(s) 100% MUSTconnect to the engine !
You have , in effect , grounded what already are "body grounds" to the body , when what they need is to be connected to the engine . Take them off of the master cyl and mount them good and secure to the engine .
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 2,080
Likes: 34
From: Spring Hill, Fl.
Car: 87 iroc-z
Engine: 454
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
my daughter was having some similar issues on a different vehicle. i put a used column in it and tons of problems went away. might be worth a shot?
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 629
Likes: 2
From: Western NY
Car: 88 convertible
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 4+3 maual
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
For grounds, you need, engine ground to frame, body to frame (or engine) and battery ground to engine. Basically the engine, frame and body need to be all tied together. If you have a bad ground at any of these points, you will get floating voltages with no reference to the true negative battery voltage (common) causing all sorts of problems. Check to see if your body is truly grounded to the engine.
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
Bigal55, I will check all my grounds just to be safe. The cars electric system has come back now with fuel prime, injectors etc. The injectors are however, spraying a HUGE amount of fuel and flooding the car immediately. And Fenderbolt, As for the ICM, it is new. Although new parts can be bad from time to time. I tested the coil with ohmmeter it came out to be good as far as i can tell.. And there is power to coil as well as good ground. I also reset my timing and distributor to TDC. I will worry about using timing light later. I just cannot get any spark to plugs. I put an old "good" plug in #1 wire and held it close to ground and got no spark.
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
My 88 camaro died in the driveway. Was running great and just shut off. Ignition control module had failed " No Spark" Had a 94" tbi truck that was flooding the fuel injector. It was a bad temp sensor on front of intake manifold for computer.
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 629
Likes: 2
From: Western NY
Car: 88 convertible
Engine: 5.7L
Transmission: 4+3 maual
Axle/Gears: 3.07
Re: Last attempt before junkyard
Bigal55, I will check all my grounds just to be safe. The cars electric system has come back now with fuel prime, injectors etc. The injectors are however, spraying a HUGE amount of fuel and flooding the car immediately. And Fenderbolt, As for the ICM, it is new. Although new parts can be bad from time to time. I tested the coil with ohmmeter it came out to be good as far as i can tell.. And there is power to coil as well as good ground. I also reset my timing and distributor to TDC. I will worry about using timing light later. I just cannot get any spark to plugs. I put an old "good" plug in #1 wire and held it close to ground and got no spark.
What I would do. Pull fuel pump relay so you don't flood the engine. Turn ignition to run so you have power to the injectors. Measure voltage at injector to ECM connections (right and left bank), should be about 12-13 volts. If you have lower voltage reading you have current flow through injectors which will open them causing fuel flow. Unplug connector at ECM and check for voltage at injector to ECM connection again and see what voltage reading is now. 12-13 volts means bad ECM (driver circuit for injectors) or if lower than 12-13 volts, short to ground somewhere between the injector harness and the ECM. IIRC the power wires for the injectors are pink and the ECM ground side are green and blue. The green and blue wires are the ones to measure the voltage at as these are the wires that the ECM grounds to fire the injectors. As far as no spark, if all your grounds are good, you may have fried the ICM when the grounds were bad. Just a thought. Good Luck and let us know what you find.
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Damon
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Sep 26, 2015 04:29 PM









