ok did fuel pump change recently (for second time within a year ) car ran fine on short drives but if I would drive it for longer then ehhh about fifteen minutes thenter I'd get to a red light and sit the car would (load up) which means idle would drop way down the idle would be surging then die at the red light in drive now I'm loosing power and at low rpm barley on the peddle in drive with foot on brake it's jumpy missing and not real responsive but as soon as I punch the peddle and it goes about halfway to almost WOT it's better....... I'm lost help guys

 

Not sure the repair history on the car, the mobile version of tgo leaves a lot to be desired..

I'm assuming a tpi, and from experience this was my IAC motor. It was some cheap part store one that gave out when it gets warm.

That fact that it misses some though makes me think it could be your ignition control module or the injectors

 

Well it is a TBI not Tpi but I've had the car for about a year and be for that it sat for about 6 years so when I got it I changed.....
Sparkplug
Wires
Cap
Button
Spark control module (inside dis.)
Also the spark control module on the firewall driver side
Egr valve
Map sensor
Radiator fan switch
And two fuel pumps
That's it I believe so many that will make it easier to help

 

Hey guys, instead of starting a new thread I will add my issue here, cause I think it is related.



I have a 1987 305 TPI (manual trans) for a few weeks now. First, idle was rough and the car jumped forwards and backwards during acceleration. I detected, that the vacuum hose of the heater control valve was bad and the hose from the EECS (canister to the intake manifold) was fallen off.



So I fixed both and for the first test drive it seemed to be fine, but after a while I discovered that an issue I experienced at my very first drive occurred (not sure if it was ever gone): The car died at any stop (red light and so on) - just as night_rider1126 said. I could start it again, but needed to hit the gas hard for that. I realized that if keeping the revs up or reving a couple of times in a row while rolling to the stop I could even manage to keep it in a smooth idle position - sometimes (so no need of reving during the stop - wonder why this helps sometimes).



After getting it back in my garage I checked the throttle plates and there was only minor dirt (dark dust). And now I can't start it anymore at all. It stalls immediately!



So what could it be: I would say no spark-thing...just because everything was fine in higher revs during normal driving and those parts seem to be not too old (of course, everything is possible...). Next would be all the emission stuff. Well, as said: I had an issue there but that made it only rough and did not lead to an immediate stalling. ECM - possible. But no trouble codes. Fuel: for sure could be and that will be the next to be tested. But what makes me wonder is that it stalls immediately after getting to about 700rpms (and lower) as if something is "cut" to keep it alive. And for a TPI I would think that fuel pressure stays the same no matter if rolling to a stop light or accelerating. The injectors get just different timings.



Ok, so my suggestion is: It is the air. And that means air when idling. Now there is the throttle with a screw or something to adjust idle-rpms. And there is this IAC which is doing - what?



Is the IAC-Valve a bypass for the air when idling cause the throttle is closed? Why would you need a valve for that and not keep that open all time (as it is after the MAF the air is taken into account anyway)? How can I test that? Where is the difference between the IAC motor and the valve?



Sure it would be easy to say to test fuel and everything else first but as I am not an expert (just own a Haynes Repair Manual) and it is not easy for me to get replacement parts (I live in Germany) in a fast and easy way nor do I have easy access to a body shop, so I need to get the clue as good as possible by rethinking the problem...



Thank you for your HELP!

 

Oh and before I fixed the vacuum hoses I experienced exact the same as night_rider: it needed the car to be warm to die at the stops!
But just now after fixing that it got worse and finally by today no starting at all (I can keep it shortly alive by reving up, but as soon as I release the pedal it stalls again)!

This changing behavior of the issue keeps me thinking a little bit if it might not be the ECM. But for that I want to understand the function and role of that IAC-Valve...

 

All right. Did some tryouts. Unplugging the IAC Valve made no difference.
Then I checked the mechanics. After getting it out somehow there was no move of the valve at all (well I could tilt it a little but no way to push it in).
After "cleaning" it - still no change. So I knocked it two times hard on the ground with the tip to the buttom and it went in. But I think with that I broke the shaft. Well anyway I put it back in and the engine is running "fine". Of course idle is at 1100rpm now but it works. So now I am waiting for my new valve.


Would anybody think that it is a big issue to drive in that condition? I mean the idle air path is open all the time. I do not worry about the idle phase itself but what if I accelerate? I guess the engine runs too poor because there is more air as the throttle is indicating. Any issues with that?

 

Ok hey guys sorry been dormant for awhile but back to the issue at hand so I figured as long as I drive the car about five min or less it's fine..? Weird but I just bought an egr vacume solenoid when I was at the auto store and put it on and the car ran good. I put it to the test and it did good I drove.it around the block for about 25 min and it ran great got back home backed it in to my parking spot and what happens....... DIES😠😠😠😠 and the check light comes on.
so the ats where I'm at I'm going to get the code ran and see what I come up with

 

Out of curiosity...how is your oil pressure during all of this?