Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
I noticed that on my 85 model chevy block that the threads in the block don't go all the way through, and that it would run down in with the coolant possibly? I'm guessing i would need some kind of sealant to put on the threads besides loctite. Please help!
Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 478
Likes: 4
From: Las Vegas
Car: Fourth Gen '94 camaro
Engine: 350 Gen II
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Re: Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
yes, u need sealant on the head bolts. U can buy the fancy Teflon sealer from ARP or even the stuff on the shelf at auto parts stores. But its all Teflon white paste sealant which u can buy in small tubes at the hardware store plumbing section for a buck.
With out sealant on the head bolts u will have coolant in the oil in short time. Good catch.
With out sealant on the head bolts u will have coolant in the oil in short time. Good catch.
Re: Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
yes, u need sealant on the head bolts. U can buy the fancy Teflon sealer from ARP or even the stuff on the shelf at auto parts stores. But its all Teflon white paste sealant which u can buy in small tubes at the hardware store plumbing section for a buck.
With out sealant on the head bolts u will have coolant in the oil in short time. Good catch.
With out sealant on the head bolts u will have coolant in the oil in short time. Good catch.

Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 179
Likes: 0
From: East Bay Area
Car: 1984 Z28
Engine: L31
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.73
Re: Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
I would stick with a high temp high pressure thread sealant rather than hardware grade. I've always used permatex high temp in the big white tube. Think I've done 3 small blocks and there's still some left.
Oh and all small block head bolts are exposed to coolant.
Oh and all small block head bolts are exposed to coolant.
Last edited by anthony64ss; Jun 11, 2015 at 08:02 PM.
Trending Topics
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,899
Likes: 2,437
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
The "pipe dope" you get at the hardware store, to put on your bathroom sink and such, will NOT last long in an engine. Right general kind of stuff, but not sufficiently robust.
Use the "hi temp automotive thread sealant w Teflon" hanging on cards in the Sealer section of yer favorite local parts store.
No need to worry about torque readings, as far as the sealer, which is a lubricant, affecting them: just don't over-torque anything. That means, on head bolts, DO NOT use a "clicker" type of wrench, use a dial or beam type instead; and tighten the bolts in increments, say 35 - 45 - 60 ft-lbs WHILE MOVING, not "breakaway" (when they START moving) which is why NOT to use a clicker; and then once you get them to 60 WHILE MOVING, go back over them all in order and re-tighten them to 60 WHILE MOVING until all take more than 60 to turn WHILE MOVING after they've STARTED moving (i.e. IGNORE what it takes to make then "breakaway".... again, why NOT to use a "clicker"). Don't go over 65. Assuming this is a small block... if it's a big block, they want to be about 70 instead of 60, but NOT above 75
Use the "hi temp automotive thread sealant w Teflon" hanging on cards in the Sealer section of yer favorite local parts store.
No need to worry about torque readings, as far as the sealer, which is a lubricant, affecting them: just don't over-torque anything. That means, on head bolts, DO NOT use a "clicker" type of wrench, use a dial or beam type instead; and tighten the bolts in increments, say 35 - 45 - 60 ft-lbs WHILE MOVING, not "breakaway" (when they START moving) which is why NOT to use a clicker; and then once you get them to 60 WHILE MOVING, go back over them all in order and re-tighten them to 60 WHILE MOVING until all take more than 60 to turn WHILE MOVING after they've STARTED moving (i.e. IGNORE what it takes to make then "breakaway".... again, why NOT to use a "clicker"). Don't go over 65. Assuming this is a small block... if it's a big block, they want to be about 70 instead of 60, but NOT above 75
Re: Any Sealant Necessary for Cylinder Head Bolts that run with Coolant!?
The "pipe dope" you get at the hardware store, to put on your bathroom sink and such, will NOT last long in an engine. Right general kind of stuff, but not sufficiently robust.
Use the "hi temp automotive thread sealant w Teflon" hanging on cards in the Sealer section of yer favorite local parts store.
No need to worry about torque readings, as far as the sealer, which is a lubricant, affecting them: just don't over-torque anything. That means, on head bolts, DO NOT use a "clicker" type of wrench, use a dial or beam type instead; and tighten the bolts in increments, say 35 - 45 - 60 ft-lbs WHILE MOVING, not "breakaway" (when they START moving) which is why NOT to use a clicker; and then once you get them to 60 WHILE MOVING, go back over them all in order and re-tighten them to 60 WHILE MOVING until all take more than 60 to turn WHILE MOVING after they've STARTED moving (i.e. IGNORE what it takes to make then "breakaway".... again, why NOT to use a "clicker"). Don't go over 65. Assuming this is a small block... if it's a big block, they want to be about 70 instead of 60, but NOT above 75
Use the "hi temp automotive thread sealant w Teflon" hanging on cards in the Sealer section of yer favorite local parts store.
No need to worry about torque readings, as far as the sealer, which is a lubricant, affecting them: just don't over-torque anything. That means, on head bolts, DO NOT use a "clicker" type of wrench, use a dial or beam type instead; and tighten the bolts in increments, say 35 - 45 - 60 ft-lbs WHILE MOVING, not "breakaway" (when they START moving) which is why NOT to use a clicker; and then once you get them to 60 WHILE MOVING, go back over them all in order and re-tighten them to 60 WHILE MOVING until all take more than 60 to turn WHILE MOVING after they've STARTED moving (i.e. IGNORE what it takes to make then "breakaway".... again, why NOT to use a "clicker"). Don't go over 65. Assuming this is a small block... if it's a big block, they want to be about 70 instead of 60, but NOT above 75
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1992 Trans Am
History / Originality
27
May 10, 2023 07:19 PM
355tpipickup
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
1
Aug 25, 2015 12:54 AM
NinjaNife
Tech / General Engine
27
Aug 23, 2015 11:49 AM







