Got it running well enough to attempt inspection, and it passed!

Still working the kinks out... one thing I notice now; when I let off the throttle while driving- maybe I'm coming up to a traffic light and I press the clutch- the throttle stays around 1500 rpm, maybe even goes up to 2000. It kicks down easily, sometimes too far, like to 500 rpm where the engine will start to knock.

Think this is a mechanical/ linkage problem? I am also getting an intermittent "code 44" while driving. "Check engine" light goes on for a while, then shuts off. Not sure if the 2 things are related.

Thanks for reading,
J.-

1983? Most common cause is the choke isn't opening up all the way and the throttle is hanging up on the last step of the fast idle cam.

Lot of times people will keep backing the curb idle speed screw out to try to slow the idle down (driver's side of the carb), but that won't affect the "fast idle" cam that's built into the choke linkage. When you do occasionally get it to kick down off the fast idle cam (a sharp rev will usually do it), guess what? It's coming down onto the curb idle speed screw which.... was just back out too far in their previous failed attempt to fix the initial problem and now causes A NEW PROBLEM INSTEAD!!

If I had a nickel....

Anyway, that's my best guess from across the internet. It's very common with electric choke QJets like used in the 3rd gen.

Next guess after that would be severely worn primary throttle shaft bushings that cause the throttle plates to wedge in their bores before they have the chance to close fully. Result- intermittent high idle speed.

Thanks for responding, Damon. I have not yet touched the curb idle or fast idle, etc., as I don't want to cause new problems like you said!

The only thing I did adjust was the screw on the electric choke- that seemed to fix my cold start problem- car no longer dies the first 10 times I start it when engine is cold- though now when I start it cold, the idle stays around 2000 even after 10 mins. running. It doesn't want to kick down!

You're in Philly? How much do you charge to tune carbs?

I don't charge anything if you can drive it to me. I mean other than parts. I just do it to help out my fellow internet friends and hotrodders. Frankly, almost all my best friends now are people I met over the internet and worked on cars together. So if you're in driving distance and want to come by drop me a PM and we'll get it touch. I actually live in the Aston, PA area ('bout halfway between Philly and Wilmington) but I say Philly because nobody knows where Aston is unless they're locals.

I don't work on stuff when it gets as cold as today, though. Where's the nice weather go to so fast?

That's mighty nice of you to offer! maybe if we get another warm spell I will get in touch with you. I am in central NJ, probably bout 1.5 hrs drive away- not too bad-

I think it's the throttle hanging on the fast idle cam issue that Damon speaks of.

Please check out my video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QErf...ature=youtu.be

What do you think?

EVen if this is the issue; what do I do about it!?

Last post here: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...am-issues.html

OK, something's up. When you push that linkage near the choke housing down it SHOULD force it off the fast idle cam and back down to curb idle. Not sure if there's a linkage problem or a giant vacuum leak. Seems to run too well for a big vacuum leak, though.

I should probably take video of mine and have you review, Damon.

I did dial back the choke screw about one turn. It will now kick down with a sharp rev, but sometimes the idle kicks down too low- around 500 rpm- and it runs rough.

I do have a vacuum leak though. I discovered the pcv is kinda loose in the valve cover. Also the hose from the pcv is cracked. I will replace all those hoses asap.