Hi guys,

I just need some ideas on this. My 92 305 tbi has been running like crap lately so I got a new cap/rotor/plugs/o2 sensor. Disconnected the battery and removed the cap first - center coil terminal had nothing left but the little spring dangling. Thanks Accel Performance but sweet I found the problem. Replaced the cap/rotor/plugs/o2 sensor doing everything in reverse of removal. Done it all 50 times before. Hook up battery and turn the key to on...hmm no fuel pump sound. Crank it. Classic "no fuel" forever-cranking sound. Squirt some starting fluid in the tbi and boom turns over for a second. Checked all the driver dash fuses and the blade fuse next to the battery and none blown. Assuming my fuel pump didn't miraculously crap out while the battery was disconnected what could I have done? I feel stupid and frustrated right now and this is my daily driver. Thank you!

 

Try putting a jumper in the fuel pump relay, see if that makes the pump run.

 

Could it have been "running like crap" because the fuel pump was going out? I've taken a rubber mallet, when my '91 base wouldn't prime, and gave it a few good thumps above where the fuel pump sits and it started long enough for me to get it in the driveway.

 

I agree

 

Ploegi, thanks I thought about that but I'll try it tomorrow. I'm beat. One update...injectors are getting 12 volts with the key in the on position but the pump is only getting 8 volts in the center connector pin and nothing on the sides. Is that normal?

Antares57, I actually assumed the pump but just hoped it wasn't. When the engine was cold it would idle fine but when I accelerated it would huff and puff to the point of almost stalling and would finally accept some acceleration after 10 to 20 seconds but gradually and unwillingly. After about 20 minutes on my morning commute everything would be fine. When I removed the distributor cap and saw the center coil terminal all but gone of course I assumed that was the problem. Makes sense right if the coil spark is barely hitting the rotor and therefore the spark plugs?

I don't mind if it's the pump at this point. Hell it's lasted 24 years and 226,000 miles! It just seems really conveniently inconvenient that I find an obvious problem like the distributor cap thinking it was the fuel pump and then the fuel pump decides to die with nothing more done than disconnecting and reconnecting the battery.

 

Ok I couldn't wait so I went back out there to test the relay. I jumped the orange to the red and to the gray and nothing. No noises whatsoever. So is that 100% then? It has to be the fuel pump? Good news/bad news it's going to suck doing it but at least I found out in my garage instead of 36 miles away at work.

One followup question though...does the 8 volts in the center terminal at the fuel pump connector mean anything? Obviously it confirms front/back of the car continuity but I don't know what the wire's supposed to read when the car's off but key in the on position.

Thanks for all your help guys! I'll update this post after I put in the new pump. Going AC Delco all the way with a new screen. No skimps on this job. Hopefully it'll give me another 24 years.

 

Fuel pump/relay stuff should all be either grounded, open circuit or full battery voltage (12V), depending on the state of the relay, of course. None of those wires should be running at fractional voltage.

 

It was the fuel pump. Spent 9 hours doing it today and it started right up and drove great. Thanks for everyone's help!