I have been looking all over the site trying to find info on how to change the motor mounts. I am installing a new engine and thought MMMMM I may want to change the mounts LOL It seem like I remember reading years ago that you need to remove the A arm to gain access to the nuts. An Advise you can lend would be great.

 

First off, be a real good time to check those ball joints and control arm bushings! Then it might be easier to drop the arms, replace that stuff, and change mounts while you are there.

I haven't replaced them on my Camaro, but my s10 which is very similar, I was finally able to get them after wrestling around with them, without pulling the springs. Took a long time, a variety of sockets, swivels, and extensions. Pretty sure I could have just pulled the springs in the same amount of time!

You can give it a try though. Definitely easier with the weight of the motor gone. But I would think about taking the opportunity to upgrade bushings, ball joints, etc and just pulling the springs.

 

I have already rebuilt the front suspen. a few years back and have only put maybe 10k miles on it. NOw that I am doing an eng. swap I better replace the engine mounts. I was just surfing on Summit Racing site and see these Energy Suspen. insert mounts. Any one know the scoop on these? looks like you only replace the rubber and would not need to tear down the complete front suspen.

 

Did you read the instructions?

http://static.summitracing.com/globa.../ens-17250.pdf

Give it a shot, you might be able to get them off fairly easy without pulling them. Only 1 way to know.

 

Guess I should research i bit more LOL thanks for the tip. Looks like I will need to tear down the suspen. to do the engine mount change.

 

I just did this a few weeks ago. I chose to use rubber/OE mounts. I don't NEED poly, and some had some fitment issues. ...but to answer your question, I was able to remove the driver side without dropping the A arm. A long wobble extension with a U joint and a short socket got it done. Used tape around the U joint so it was flexible, but didn't fall over while pointed up. Wasn't too hard. Passenger side had to come off. tried and tried. Wasn't gonna happen. Having Eibach springs helped though. No need for a compressor.

 

Was in the same boat several years ago. Had just redone my suspension, then decided to do the mounts. Ended up really wishing I had done both together. As was just mentioned above, the Eibach springs make dropping the A arms much easier. I swapped in new knuckles with the FlyN'Bye big brake kit a few years ago. It wasn't a bad job at all, even in the driveway.

 

I did the same thing. ...and I also have the FlyN'Bye kit.

 

I was able to use my welder and bending the welding rod just right to fit up in there I put a little tack weld in a couple of spots on each nut . Took no time whatsoever and the mounts were done .

Would I do it on a showcar ? No , of course not , but in my case it was a daily driver I was working on and there weren't going to be any points taken off for a few well positioned non factory tack welds

 

Honestly, that's how the factory should have done it in the first place. At least some type of self locking captured bolt should have been used.