I have a 1988 GTA with an idle problem. Recently I replaced the intake manifold and EGR about two weeks ago. After the reseal I kept getting code 36 for the MAF sensor. I bought the Granatelli Motorsports Mass Air Flow Sensor from hawksmotorsports to try and get rid of the code but with no luck I am still getting code 36 and the car is knocking at idle in both park and drive. The car also seems to be running a lot hotter than it did before the reseal I have checked for leaks and not found any, the car will not overheat but under the hood just feels a lot warmer than it should. I have tried disconnecting the MAF sensor and the EGR vac line to close the valve to see if it will get rid of the knock but nothing has worked. My next guess is it might be timing related so I'm going try and reset the timing this weekend to see if that gets rid of the knocking and advice or help would be greatly appreciated because I'm about to throw in the towel

 

You say "Knocking"......upper, lower engine? Just changing a intake gasket won't make the engine knock. Did you use the right intake gaskets, not to block cooling ports.

AC Delco 10174951
Fel-Pro MS930351

Also, at idle, the EGR is in the CLOSED position.

 

It sounds like your problem will be solved when you set the timing properly.


I'm no fan of the GMS MAF sensors. I'd try to return it and get your money back.


.

 

I was gonna say that also!

 

Yes i used the correct gaskets the car doesn't overheat and runs in normal operating temperature once its warmed up. The noise sounds like it could be coming from the upper part of the engine I'm not sure how to pin point where it is coming, top or bottom. All I know is you can clearly hear a ticking noise whenever the car misses. I have a feeling my timing might be a little to advanced.

 

What kind of MAF sensor would you recommend using?

 

Why did you reseal the intake and replace the EGR? If you didn't have this problem before you worked on it its more than likely caused by the work performed

 

I resealed the intake because it was leaking you could see around the front of the intake where it was wet. I replaced the EGR because the car had given me code 32 for the EGR failing while the vac line was hooked up. So for a while I left the vac line unplugged to keep the EGR closed and from getting stuck open and plugged the vac line to it so I wouldn't have a vacuum leak.

 

Stock.

 

Here is what I recommend doing:

1. Put stock MAF back on
2. Double check all wiring connections that was disturbed during repair.
3. diconnect ESC wire, set base timing, reconnect ESC wire.
4. Double check all vacuum hoses and routing
5. Check crankcase for high vacuum (high vacuum will indicate intake gasket problem)
6. If the above doesn't fix it start tearing it back apart until you find the problem

 

I put the stock MAF sensor back on and that did not help I checked all wire connections and everything is hooked up correctly. I took the distributor out and re positioned it better so my spark plug wires are neater and more organized. I have the timing set to 6 degrees above top dead center. The car is not running any better is it still misfiring at idle and running poorly. I discovered it is not spark knock, when the car will misfire there is a crack in the y pipe that the rush of air will fart out of the crack I stuck my hand down there and felt it. Last night I started it and fired right up the fell on it face then started idling and misfire erratically. I shut it off disconnected the MAF sensor and tried again which seemed to help the idle it was more stable and the misfire was not as bad either. How do i go about checking the crankcase for high vacuum?