It was off for like 1 minute, now it wont start.

Tried jumping it, its not the battery anyways because lights are bright.

Fuel pump turns on when I turn the key, no other noises.

The only dash lights that come on are seatbelt, check engine, and brake. I read something about a security light? What is that?

Tried leaving key on for 5 minutes and jumping the starter. It turns but nothing else happens.
Tried starting in neutral.
Tried wiggling the key.

Anything else to try before I try buying a new ignition? (stores dont open for 3 hours)

 

If nothing happens when you turn the key and the security light stays on, the chip in your ignition key has failed is my guess. There is a dealer website that allows them to enter the vin from your car and make you a new key. They may ask you to show them the title for proof of ownership before making you a new key.

 

What is the security light? Is it like the "check engine" light but says "security" instead? I dont see it.
I should probably familiarize myself with all the lights that normally turn on....

 

Any input before I go for this ignition switch? - http://www.autozone.com/batteries-st...?checkfit=true

 

Watched a video on how the starter works, now I think it might be my starter solenoid.
When we jumped the starter, it just spun; it didn't engage the engine.
Does this sound right?

 

If the starter spins and doesn't turn the engine over I'd guess the starter itself is bad. If the starter didn't spin at all, like it wasn't getting power, then maybe id think it was the solenoid

 

Since the starter cranks the engine when the solinoid is excited.
This sounds like a vats issue . If the key reader is not working with conjunction of the passkey module you will not have a active starter enable relay and injector pulse.
You can jumper the starter enable relay to get it to crank if it is the vats not working.
The enable relay is under the drivers side kick panel. Once the relay is removed the two outer wires can be jumpers together. Iirc the two larger gauge wires are green and yellow or purple. There are a few ways to bypass the vats for starting.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/elec...ing-v-t-s.html
If you have the 2.8l you should have a 1227302 ecm.
I don't have a pin out for this ecm but the should be a dark blue wire at the ecm.
Koeo if the vats is working iirc you will have a hz signal and 2.5v or so .

 

Got my car towed home, the tow truck driver was super helpful and tested some things, and got it started by jumping the starter (guess my friend and I were doing something wrong when we tried)
He said he thinks its probably just a simple wiring problem, possibly with the aftermarket LED fog light wires shorting something out, which one of them is broken anyways, so is definitely possible.

Gonna start by pulling that out tomorrow morning.

 

What year and what car do you have?

 

89 Firebird (its on my profile, look to the left)



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So I tested the VATS via this guide: https://www.thirdgen.org/vats/
The resistance matches when the key is off, and I get infinite resistance when the key is on.
Gonna try to find a local store with resistors (RIP radioshack)

 

 

It works! Thanks guys



PS: just in case someone finds this thread in the future while searching: My VATS wires were 2 white wires inside an orange sleeve; not yellow like the guide says.

 

Glad to hear you got it back on the road, thanks for updating us.