myslo50

Bought the motor knowing it has a bottom end noise. Pulled apart and this it what I found

..........well I have to figure out how to post pics. Thought I had it........

myslo50

Try this

myslo50

Success...lol

myslo50

Cap bearing

myslo50

Crank

myslo50

Use some plasti gage on it or is it scored enough to be junk.
Put a crank kit in it. Really don't want to send it out cause it will set me back a while on getting the car on the road

Next question is since the nuts were loose, will the studs on that particular rod need replaced from possibly being stretched?

paulo57509

Crank kit is the quickest way to fix this correctly. I'd replace the connecting rod bolts and nuts.



Would something like this tend to make the connecting rod bearing bore egg-shaped?

redneckjoe

doesnt look to have been run very long like that. i'd put new bearings in it, and some break-in oil. run it and see what happens. in the meantime you can always save money.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not good...

There's no telling "why" that happened, or what it might have damaged, beyond what you can see. Might be just yerbasic cheeeeeeeeeeeeeep rebuild and somebody forgot to tighten that one; might have been abused (over-revved for example) and did that; might be that after it got loose the bolts got bent or the cap distorted or the mating surfaces damaged; just really hard to say.

Sure, you "can" just slap it back together and hope for the best; maybe it'll work out; however, that's about the best plan I know of for assuring yourself of the need to pull it back out in acoupla hundred miles because it failed again. Me personally, if anything I have ever done required luck on my side for it to work out in my favor, I've been hosed, every time without fail. I sure wouldn't take the risk.

As Paulo said, a crank kit (crank & bearings)... but also a rod. Which requires removing that piston from the block.

It's too late now for advice on buying a motor; but that would have been, had you asked, don't buy a motor with a bottom end noise and just expect you're gonna be able to use it anyway without substantial work and expense. You'd have come out cheeeeeeeper in the end paying more for a known good motor than buying a cheeeeeeeeep trashed one and having to fix it, even if you got it for free.

myslo50

Well thats the issue I been looking for a motor for this and a motor sitting on a stand not knowing if it runs is minimum $500-800 depending on what it is. Running motor sitting in a car with unknown mileage cause everyone will lie to sell is upwards of $1000 and You might get some aftermarket goodies on it. I called a local machine shop and it will be about $1000-$1500 for rebuild, everything being true and new with zero miles.

Plus the block I have is a roller block with roller cam and lifters in it

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Best way to get a good motor is to go to the junkyard and get a 96-2000 truck motor.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...king-tips.html See post #8. I realize it's kinda too late now, but maybe next time... or maybe it's not. Might be a better idea to cut your losses on what you've got and compare going the junkyard route against yet another of the cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeepest thing you can find that somebody won't go to jail for fraud because they said it was "rebuilt". Which is pretty much what you'll get for that price.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I should add: doing the junkyard thing above also gets you a set of heads all in the same deal. Don't forget to factor that cost in too.

Add up the price of fixing/replacing the thing you have now, plus a set of GOOD heads. Compare to the price of a junkyard motor as described. You just might surprise yourself.

paulo57509

The junkyard route eliminates a lot of the guessing and seller "non-disclosures" about condition. At least with a yard engine, you pretty much know what you're getting. The expectation level is pretty low to begin with.

The local pick & pull yards around here sell engines for ~$220. Complete FI long blocks with accessories. I don't know if they charge for pulling them out of the chassis or what else they "fee" for.

http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricin...e&#partpricing

They're willing to warranty these things so they can't be that FUBAR; at least they'll be good cores for a rebuild project.

Add this to the $1000 - $1500 machine shop work and you're on the road for around $2000 even after all the nickle and dime stuff.