I just bought a 1986 auto IROC fixer...a real fixer. The car runs and I drove it home. However, it was definitely missing and running rough. Bought a code reader and while trying to read the codes the car would shut off if the code reader was plugged in. Unplug the code reader and it stays running. I climbed under the car to check out things and I noticed one of the spark plugs was not plugged in...thought I was good to go? Nope...plugged it in and now the car starts but shuts off immediately.

Cannot read codes! What does a newbie 3rd Gen guy do? I have my thoughts but wanted to get some other input. I know There is not very much information here, but I do not have much to work with at this point.

Thanks all.

 

Do you get any codes with the engine shut off?

Start with basics. You already found a plug wire off. Check all the plug wires and make sure they're in the proper firing order. 18436572 in a clockwise rotation.

 

The only code is the one that indicates the system is working. Ok will check the wires to be sure they are in the correct order.

 

The disconnected cyl may well be spitting back into the intake. Which in turn, could be due to incorrect plug wire order, a burnt intake valve, or a blown head gasket in certain places (between 5 & 7 especially).

 

Ok. The unplugged wire was #7 the one closest to the oil filter. I did not get to work on it much today. I did take off the distributor cap and saw what looked like a little burnt area on the wire harness plug? It is the original distributor, cap and rotor.

I wonder why the car just shuts off? It has to be some ignition protection code where it just shuts off to protect the engine? Also, not sure what the connection is between plugging in the code reader to produce the same result.

 

How much of a project is this car? Is it still stock? Any visible cut and spliced non-factory wiring? How long was the car sitting?

With the engine running is the check engine light on?

The engine doesn't have to be running to check for codes; key on, engine off is all it takes provided there are codes stored.

But it should still run with the reader plugged in. You might want to try reading the codes without the reader:

http://www.obd-codes.com/faq/read-gm...codes-free.php

 

The car was a two owner car. I knew it was a project but if has not been modified at all. The engine bay appears to be stock. No cut or spliced wires that I can see. The car has been driven about 3,000 over the past three years according to an oil change sticker. No lights on while it was running. Yeah the code only reads the code telling you the system is working. After that code there is no more codes.

I know it is difficult to understand what is wrong with the car but thought the shutting off indicated something?

 

Not sure what kind of "code reader" you might have bought; but, the most popular style, is something about like this. http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...aper-Clips-No/ Never seen one of those make a motor "shut off". You use it with the engine not running anyway... the computers in these cars are SOOOOOOO SLLLLLLOOOOOOOOOOOW, there's no such thing as any kind of "real time" data. Like, just imagine trying to play a MMOLRPG with your computer from 1982.

Just get the codes (if any) with the reader I posted, and go from there.

 

perhaps being new to 3rd gens, it might be smart to buy a manual? do some tune-up/maintanence things first. change oil, filter, air cleaners, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel filter, etc. then check the ignition timing, (with EST wire disconnected). get familiar with the car.


and the code reader posted above works perfect!

 

Sure makes sense to get a manual. I did read the old paper clip trick but because the code reader was so cheap I just bought one. I bought a good code reader but will try the paper clip.

I am going to do the tune up. Was going to replace the entire distributor. O'Reilly has an Axel one for like $130 w/o a coil. I rather stay with Deleon but cannot find any new ones on the net...most are rebuilt. Recommendations there? I see a ton on Amazon and eBay but not sure about the product.

 

Sorry for the spelling. I meant Acel distributor and AC Delco.

 

I've never had any issue with A1 Cardone rebuilt distributors, although it's been quite a while since I've purchased one. Most of the time, it's an OEM Core (AC Delco in this case) that's just been rebuilt with a new gear, pin, electrical items, etc.

 

I looked on the A1 site and no distributor for F code car only H. What brand of new distributors are decent. I did buy the Acel one if that will be good.

 

If memory serves, the only difference between the H and F dist is the height... the H was the same as HEI had always been since it came out in 74, but the F one is about a half-inch shorter so it will fit under that little cover that screws to the back of the plenum. Functionally the same other than that. If your car is already missing that piece as most are, might as well get the other.

 

You can buy complete dizzes on fle-bay for like $40 ALL day long.

 

Assuming I have the correct application, this should be the correct distributor for a TPI car.
https://www.cardone.com/Products/Pro...%2fFI%3a%3a%3a

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaz-30-1867

That is, of course, if you still need one. You mentioned that you purchased an Accel distributor.

 

http://www.ebay.com/itm/311025706666...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252400151857...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

$4x.xx each-

 

I am going to return the Accel since is if for the H code not the F code. Going with the reman AC Delco distributor and new AC Delco rotor, cap and coil. How does that sound?

 

Cannot wait to get it on and see what the car does...hopefully it will fix it. Then off to fix tHe front oil leak, diff whine, battery box replacement, headlight switch (hope to cure dash lights and gauges not working), so on and so on.

 

Returned the Accel stuff and got a got a rebuilt Distributor with the AC Delco cap and coil. Will update everyone over the weekend.

 

Check the pick-up coil and ignition module. Check for corrosion at connectors and components them selfs. Running with one spark plug wire off will change resistance on pick-coil. Also check for bad fuel or low pressure. Just smell at gas cap if it doesn't smell like fuel take a sample out of fuel rail.
Joe

 

Ok Joe. There was a brown is residue on the connectors? My brother took a look via FaceTime and he said that did not look right. Hopefully getting all new ignition will at least eliminate this area. I did take plug 7 out and it looked old I suspect the others are the same.

I am sure the fuel filter is old as the hills too. The new ethanol fuel sucks. I cannot believe what it did to my xr400 carb. I am sure these cars do not like it.

 

Ok, just smell the gas tank fill tube? Take sample and drain and flush as necessary. The brown residue is probably the dried out factory grease. Be careful of cheap reman. Distributors put them in when supplied by customers and most fail then or within a few days.
Joe

 

This reman is by Cardone which is very popular. It has lifetime warrantee so I hope it is good. I'll check the gas this weekend.

 

FYI life time warrenty sometimes means change that part for a lifetime? Or till you get a good one.
Joe

 

Joe, what is a good one? Most that I saw were Chinese made and the Accel did not get great reviews?

 

Ok. Got all the new ignition stuff on and and it is running great. So far no stalling and firing on all cylinders. Now on to the rest of the stuff to fix. Thanks all.

 

glad to hear its going well.

 

It is still a work in progress. I still have oil leaks, rear diff whine, AC to do. It will keep me busy.

 

oil leaks are the Camaro's way of letting us know that they have fluids without pulling the dipsticks and the diff whine is the Camaro's way of communicating with howling dogs in surrounding neighbourhoods.