91rs1022

iTrader: (3)

I just picked up a tbi 350, I'm wondering if I could install my roller cam from my TPI 305 into this block. It looks like I just need to drill the 3 holes for the spider to mount on. Has anyone done this?

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Yes you can do that.

Just be careful not to go too deep: the "spine" running down the middle of the block is the main oil passage feeding the oil to all the crank (main & rod) and cam bearings.

You may also have to drill & tap the cam retainer bolt holes.

91rs1022

iTrader: (3)

Any idea on how far down? What happens if I go too deep?

zed-028

wouldnt have thought you would have to tap the retainer holes, the block architecture should be the same for all roller blocks. So as long as both blocks are roller cam blocks this shouldnt be an issue.

With regards to the actual install itself, look for some youtube videos on how to do it. oil it up, slide in and out whilst turning, repeat over and over again. As sofa said, thats the main oil feed, if you nick or scratch some bearings you can run into issues. Once its in, dont keep forcing it, put the retainer plate on and bolt it in.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Look at the height of those bosses above the outside of the rest of the "spine". You don't want to go much farther in than that.

You'll hit the oil passage. The pressurized oil that keeps your bearings alive. Maybe nothing will happen; but, if a bolt decides to back out, you'll have a GIANT leak in your oil system, starving the bearings of oil. In short, the worst possible disaster you could create.

Don't drill all the way through. Put a piece of white tape on your drill bit or the like.

zed-028

my bad i thought he was talking about the retainer on the shaft snout.

re:lifter spider - have fun with that

91rs1022

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info guys

86CamaroDan

Do you have the original block/hardware from the TPI block? If you do, I would measure how deep it goes with a drill bit, then mark that depth on the bit so when you reach it, the tape is flush with the top of the boss. OR you can measure how far down the bolt goes from the BOTTOM OF THE BOLT HEAD to the end of the bolt. Punch a dimple right in the center and start with a smaller bit first, then work your way up. The only other thing i would be weary of is the tap is not the same width all the way down, you you may need to add a washer under the bolt head.

midias

Also when you tap use a ground down or bottoming tap to get maximum threads without having to go deeper

91rs1022

iTrader: (3)

Ok sounds great, that's what I had planned. But yes, I have all the original roller cam stuff. Gonna use a LT1 cam in it.

86CamaroDan

I probably wouldnt do that. Mush over the cutting threads. They do make bottoming taps too that go straight down.

midias

You don't grind all the way to the cutting threads just close. If you are not comfortable with it grab a bottoming tap

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

The lifter bosses do not look properly machined to me but it may just be the gunk and grime covering them.

Many truck blocks were not drilled and tapped for the lifter hold down retaimer or the front cam retainer. Also many of them did not have the area above the lifters machined deep enough to allow the lifter dog bones to seat correctly on the lifters.

91rs1022

iTrader: (3)

I'm gonna measure my current roller motor and double check everything. But thanks for the heads up

cuisinartvette

measure twice cut once. Youll be Ok
resourceful way to go roller

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

Actually I am fairly certain they are not cut after looking at a picture I have of a roller cam equipped block. You can see where the cutter that surfaced the lifter bore cut into the back of the water jackets. Your block does not look like it has had this machining performed.