My 89 350 has always taken quite a few cranks when cold to fire up, and sometimes dies out when I come to a stop warm, but other then that it runs smooth and strong. Last week I drove it to and from work which is 50 miles round trip ( I do this a few days a week) then the next day it would only crank and not even try to start.

A little history, had it for only a few months, there are some modifications, but from what I've seen and been told is it has headers, exhaust, shift kit. Under the hood I see a BBK adjustable fuel reg and a blaster coil, not sure what else has been changed.

-I tested fuel pressure and it was around 32, but peaked as high as 36 once, but each time would bleed down to 28 after a few min, but then stay there.
- Tested for spark with an inline tester between wire and plug, and between coil and distributor, no spark in either spot.
-Started to remove module, I noticed that the internal connector from the distributor to the module was half gone and seem to only be held together with grease (contacts were pretty green). It of course came apart in my haND when I unplugged it.

-The module tested bad at autozone.

Can I buy some sort of pigtail to splice into the distributor so I can connect the new module or do I have to replace the whole pick up? I am real nervous about removing the distributor, but if I have to to replace the pick up coil, am I better off just replacing the whole distributor with an autozone one for $116, which includes module and cap and rotor? The distributor looks to be rusty inside also.

Thanks, and sorry for writing such a long post on my very first post.

 

It will be better to replace the entire distributor. I don't know if you can get just the pick coil anymore.

 

I would replace the entire distributor if there is that much corrosion. Just be careful and take a few pictures of everything around the distributor. Also take note of where the rotor is pointing and where the body of the is clocked. If you are careful you can get it to start and run on your first try. You will obviously need to time it after that as well. Good luck!

 

Thanks for the replies so far! Does anyone think it's worth it to buy a better or performance one? I know I probably don't need a $600 one, but if I knew of one that was better, and it cost only a little more money then the autozone one, I would probably get it. I would need it in the next day or two though.

thanks again

 

is yours computer controlled? - if so then you might as well go GM + buy some awesome thermal grease and a spare module

if not - basically any distributor is better - my $60 ebay vac advance big cap HEI is absolutely solid.

 

if the pickup coil is bad - always replace the whole distributor.

you can have the old dist out and new one in in under 10 minutes - pickup coil replacement isnt worth it

 

The fuel pressure seems low too. 28 PSI is really low. Should be more like high 30s or low 40s ideally.

 

I am worried about that, but was hoping my readings were a combination of a adjustable fuel pressure regulator, not set quite right and an old fuel pressure tester that hasn't been used in at least 15 years. Once I replace the distributor, do you think I should try and bump up the pressure?

 

Your fuel pressure should read 41 psi. Its way low at 28

 

Okay, so still messing with this... I replaced the distributor (but didn't set the timing yet). Seemed to run well, actually seemed to have a bit more power than before, until it warms up. Once warm it loses quite a bit of power, and seems to be missing or sort of sputtering, while driving or just reving th e engine up.

Next, I replaced the fuel filter, same. I then checked the timing, it was at just above 12 btdc. I moved it down to about 6, but couldn't get it exactly because it was jumping around, probably because when warm the idle is low and erratic just as it was before all this started. Now, power is down, even cold and seems to be worse now when warm. I bumped up the fuel pressure to the low 40s, no change.

Not sure if it's just the hot humid air now, but it's now worse than ever and now seems to be backfiring. Last night I replaced the coolant temperature sensor on the intake. I only drove it for a few min, but I already started to feel the missing start, although I didn't disconnect the batter yet, but don’t think that will matter much.

Could my coil have been damaged when the distributor failed? It was running strong before all this, well except for the low and erratic idle thing.

What's next, coil, spark plugs, iac?

thanks for your help.

 

Disconnect the O2 sensor, and see if it runs any better.

 

It has headers and has always had a check engine light on, so I guess I was assuming they were gone, or not doing anything. I will look for them.

thanks!

 

I think there is only one, but, I don't remember where they put it...... (been a while since I had my Formula.....)