When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
threw my 9" under the car to see what im dealing with. eye ball lined it up with the stock diff. straight in line of the driveshaft. looks like i might be close on the drivers side and short on passenger side. now do i try and cut and fab this up myself or sell this setup and try adn save for one that bolts in (i cant save money if my life depended on it) so itll probably never happen. im not building a drag car just want a little stronger diff than a 10 bolt. although i have never blown one up yet, but then again i have never put the power through one i should be making
Hey man, if you want to do it and have the means to do so, then heck yeah, go for it. I'll tell ya tho, it's a lot of work. Especially if this is your 1st time. Critical measurements need to be taken. Jigs for alignment for springs, lca, and most importantly, to make sure the axle is straight and true. I built a 8.8 this winter/spring. Have a lot of time in it. Do a search and check it out. Get a feel for it.
i think ive read through your post and several others. been getting a bunch of measurement pics, ideas, etc... actually thought about goin to a 8.8 instead. i actually originally was lookin for a 8.8 then i found this diff at a decent price so i decided to try it. i do like trying to do things myself. ive never swapped rear ends. my s10 that was almost the same build im goin in my camaro had the 7.5 10 bolt and that was making 465rwhp 390rwtq. dumped clutch multiple times never had a issue. actually bought a shortened 8.8 for the truck which i wish i would have kept.
hooker 2460 ceramic coated headers and y-pipe installed.(still have to tighten it all but everything is in ,all bolts etc.)
you don't want to know how many f-bombs and flying tools were bouncing off the garage walls.man,i need a drink...wish i still drank
was hot today so didnt do much. threw my rear carpet in. vacuumed up the interior a little. looked at my stock a/c wiring and remembered that i have to extend it and figure out which vacuum line i need to use from the back of the controls. have to fix 2 little wiring issues both having to do with the rear hatch latch when i re-wired the car. maybe ill do that tomorrow.
nice use of cad (cardboard assited design) check out "project binky" (obsession motorsports on youtube) if you want to watch an epic build and find out the origins of "cad"
i would suggest watching project binky from the start at EPISODE 1(JUST TYPE IN YOUTUBE PROJECT BINKY EPISODE 1),its highly addictive(to me anyway)my god those fellas do some incredible re-engineering and reverse engineering,fabbing,modding etc and are funny as heck to boot.what they accomplish is nothing short of awe inspiring.sorry bout the caps,my keyboard sucks and my hands are numb from header install weekend.
Did this little mod, i got tired of the seat belt loops on the headrest.Just not working in the vert. These are from a VW something, but they were seat back release "*****. Quite a bit was cut away too.
looks like one of her eyebrows is sagging(right side of the nose),is that a look of disdain or a yearning for ls power? damn sexy car ....id rock it
project hellion/shithawk is coming along,the L31 is getting close.im using the crate sp350/357 recipe for the build.
vortec heads are assembled after lapping the valves,a little exhaust port work,new retainers,LS springs,valve seals.
ive got a nice #12677151 SP350 cam ready to install,so i bought a NOS comp cams timing chain sight unseen,now i find
out roller cams have a smaller bolt circle so i need another one(grrrrr)
i have billet valve covers,breathers,timing chain cover,water pump but they need a polish,what do you guys use to bring back hazy aluminum?
also,my volt meter has been jumping around sporadically and i needed a boost yesterday.i don't know if its the alternator,the battery or something happening from the headers i recently installed.
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; Jul 28, 2020 at 02:42 PM.
looks like one of her eyebrows is sagging(right side of the nose),is that a look of disdain or a yearning for ls power? damn sexy car ....id rock it
project hellion/shithawk is coming along,the L31 is getting close.im using the crate sp350/357 recipe for the build.
vortec heads are assembled after lapping the valves,a little exhaust port work,new retainers,LS springs,valve seals.
ive got a nice #12677151 SP350 cam ready to install,so i bought a NOS comp cams timing chain sight unseen,now i find
out roller cams have a smaller bolt circle so i need another one(grrrrr)
i have billet valve covers,breathers,timing chain cover,water pump but they need a polish,what do you guys use to bring back hazy aluminum?
also,my volt meter has been jumping around sporadically and i needed a boost yesterday.i don't know if its the alternator,the battery or something happening from the headers i recently installed.
Cosmetically, that’s as good as she’ll ever get, but it’s a far cry from the rusty dented pile I towed home last year!
See post on chasing 10 year gremlin. That’s our current angst!
...the L31 is getting close.im using the crate sp350/357 recipe for the build.
vortec heads are assembled after lapping the valves,a little exhaust port work,new retainers,LS springs,valve seals.
ive got a nice #12677151 SP350 cam ready to install..
From the picture it looks like you're going with the pressed in studs. Or did you pin them?
i was going with the pressed in studs,but if i can pin them without extreme difficulty i will.i also have a set of screw in a studs too but im a little Leary with others telling me that i will break off the old pressed in studs and then i will have to edm or machine the broken bits out.i really dont want to do this "damage recovery" if at all possible but would love to put the screw-in studs i already have in or pin them.what is the procedure to pin them exactly.i have a basic understanding from the expression "pinning" but would like a far more detailed description of the exact method used.my assumption is the press in studs are drilled cross ways through the cast boss then a roll pin is hammered in,is that close?
installed some LED headlights (need to order the other 2). finally fixed my hatch wiring. fabd up a little bracket to mount my interfooler. and finally sold my 16 mustang gt so ill have more money for the Maro.
To say I am pleased with his work would be an understatement. The paint looks better than factory brand new, Absolutely no orange peel or flaws of any kind is visible. And since I paid big bucks to have it restored to it's former glory, yes, it does sit under 2 covers.
To say I am pleased with his work would be an understatement. The paint looks better than factory brand new, Absolutely no orange peel or flaws of any kind is visible. And since I paid big bucks to have it restored to it's former glory, yes, it does sit under 2 covers.
Looks great! What, if anything did you remove for the paint job?
The car was stripped down to primer & all maladies were repaired. Various dings from the original owner, cracks where the c pillar meet the roof were welded & smoothed. Front & rear fascias were removed. Windshield was replaced. Side moldings were left off for a cleaner look. The painter sent me pictures along the way, but his phone would not upload the pics to my computer.
The car was stripped down to primer & all maladies were repaired. Various dings from the original owner, cracks where the c pillar meet the roof were welded & smoothed. Front & rear fascias were removed. Windshield was replaced. Side moldings were left off for a cleaner look. The painter sent me pictures along the way, but his phone would not upload the pics to my computer.
worked on project motivation:
i have the L98 long block cleaned,painted,new seals,gaskets,bearings,flat top pistons 4 relief. standard bore still cross hatched and sweet.
installed GMPP sp350/357 >> 7151 roller cam,rebuilt,cleaned,reinstalled roller lifters,dog bones,spider,new double row cloyes timing chain.
i went with this one because it was rebuilt less than 5000 km ago and doesn't need machining.it also has flat tops 0.025" down and a mech fuel pump boss.
1)ready to to install windage tray from L31 vortec,stock oil pan cleaned and painted,new felpro blue one piece oil pan gasket and new oil pump.
2)ready to install my L31 vortec heads,valves lapped,light cleanup behind valves and exhaust ports,
new felpro valve seals,new gm LS6 valve springs,new comp cams retainers.felpro blue head gaskets.
3)ready to install my edlebrock performer RPM,moroso 1" phelonic spacer,new felpro blue gaskets
4)ready to install my holley ultra 650 double pumper (mechanical secondaries for stick car)
5)ready to install GM hei refreshed,new adjustable vacuum adv,accell coil,msd cap,blue max wires
6)ready to install billet valve covers,billet breathers and felpro blue valve cover gaskets
7)ready to install aluminum timing chain cover(with oil pan obviously)
8)ready to install aluminum water pump and painted pulleys(contemplating serpentine conversion but hate the look,have 2 complete setups)
its been a long road,details details
ive got 3 small blocks on stands,L98,L31,LB9 this one first then the L31 will get built ,then the spare 305 roller
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; Aug 8, 2020 at 10:47 PM.
made a bracket to mount my catch can. fully bolted my front bumper back up and did a quick wash for the hell of it. aaaaaaannd still waiting to have my turbo kit built.
After extensive research, I bit the bullet & bought some Dura Lube tire dressing. Applied it per the instructions yesterday & couldn't be happier with the results. Let's see how long it actually lasts.
Got my Magnaflow Y-pipe, cat, and cat back system installed. I've driven it about 100 miles and the sound just keeps getting better. Liking it a lot so far.
I knocked a new hole in my old rocker FX!
I hit something on the freeway that looked a little like a baseball cap, but I only saw it for a split second before I hit it, and it made a loud bang under the car! The car still rides great, but now I have this damage in addition to my chewed-up chin thanks to PO. Now I'm trying to find out how I can repair them cleanly, or find affordable replacements (yeah, asking a lot). But they're not at the top of the list.
Cracked off a patch of PO's rattle-can primer too.
dropped off my 1992 sbc at the machine shop to be bored and stroked to 383cu. the machine shop owner and i spoke at length about compression ratio, heads, torque converters, cam shafts, ignition systems; it was a lot of fun talking engines with someone who has 30 years plus experience building them.
finally finished my catch can install. dunno if itll stay there but for now itll work i guess. hopefully later on ill get a vintage air setup then ill mount the catch can where the a/c box is.
i was going with the pressed in studs,but if i can pin them without extreme difficulty i will.i also have a set of screw in a studs too but im a little Leary with others telling me that i will break off the old pressed in studs and then i will have to edm or machine the broken bits out.i really dont want to do this "damage recovery" if at all possible but would love to put the screw-in studs i already have in or pin them.what is the procedure to pin them exactly.i have a basic understanding from the expression "pinning" but would like a far more detailed description of the exact method used.my assumption is the press in studs are drilled cross ways through the cast boss then a roll pin is hammered in,is that close?
Pretty much. And it can somewhat imprecise provided you aren't too far the centre of the stud with the pin.
As for screw-in studs, if you have the style without the integral jamb nut, the process is a little easier as there's no spot facing invloved. The video linked below gives an idea of what you'd be up against.
Started a project that’s been sitting for 10+ years. Changed hood struts, changed oil/filter, removed spark plugs, did compression test, filled cylinders with mystery oil, dropped in a new battery.
i couldn't live with myself walking by that car for 10 years and not driving it,especially in new mexico/i live in canada and count the days till i can drive again,i hate snow/winter/sh>i<t weather......
dont know if i like the 3 yards (times 2) of black braided line but its not my car.i am of course exaggerating,but does it need to be 3-4 feet away from the valve cover?
i love and absolutely hate black simultaneously,glad its your car.white is my absolute favorite color to deal with,it doesn't need constant attention to look great.
covering the car,uncovering the car,waxing the car,washing the car,drying the car................forget it......id rather be drivng
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; Aug 24, 2020 at 08:47 PM.
I just bought this car from a member here on the board. He had it sitting for 10+ years. I’ve had it a week. I plan to go through the entire thing and make sure it’s up to snuff for my daughter who will be able to drive in 30 months. It has a carbed LT1 with 700R4. Today I drained the rear diff fluid and inspected it. It’s a 10 bolt Posi with 3.73 gear set. Almost ready to put the new cover back on.
30 months? as in 2 and a half years? please don't tell me she is 13 and you plan on giving her the car when she is 16 . unless you already have taught her the finer elements of rear wheel drive,posi-traction ,plenty of torque,spinouts,being cut off,blind cell phone using drivers who are worse than impaired drivers and multiple idiots on the road who think stop signs are a suggestion that they commonly disregard.i couldn't imagine a teen driving a car like that unless it was in a very unpopulated(population 2-300 maybe),rural area and she had tons of seat time BEFORE going out with the dipsh>i>ts everywhere on the roads these days.i saw 5-6 people blow stop lights today alone and i have a 3 km commute(that's less than 2 miles)
this is just my opinion obviously,i just have little faith in the absolute crap drivers i deal with in a relatively small city.
30 months? as in 2 and a half years? please don't tell me she is 13 and you plan on giving her the car when she is 16 . unless you already have taught her the finer elements of rear wheel drive,posi-traction ,plenty of torque,spinouts,being cut off,blind cell phone using drivers who are worse than impaired drivers and multiple idiots on the road who think stop signs are a suggestion that they commonly disregard.i couldn't imagine a teen driving a car like that unless it was in a very unpopulated(population 2-300 maybe),rural area and she had tons of seat time BEFORE going out with the dipsh>i>ts everywhere on the roads these days.i saw 5-6 people blow stop lights today alone and i have a 3 km commute(that's less than 2 miles)
this is just my opinion obviously,i just have little faith in the absolute crap drivers i deal with in a relatively small city.
Yes, 30 months when she is 16. She hasn’t been taught to drive yet as she is only 13 now. What’s the difference between this car and any other when it comes to other drivers? I have considered getting a Tesla with self driving capability. Our city with suburbs is around 750k. I will teach her how my dad taught me, I’ve never been in an accident more than a kissed bumper. I’m considering a partial cage though.
The 3rd gen platform is unique today in a few ways. Rear wheel drive. No ABS. No traction control. Those items combined make for a unique driving experience. Now I'm pretty certain NM doesn't get winter weather like do in most parts of Canada, but I took my just learning to drive daughter to the empty parking lots to teach her a little about skid control and panic braking. The lessons are more enhanced when there's a few inches of snow on the ground. Same could be said for gravel roads. She learned very well and the V6 Coupe she drove around in served her very well for the couple of years she drove.
i absolutely would not consider allowing a new driver to start with a third gen,especially modified unless
you give her plenty of seat time in a controlled environment(not just once or twice),today's roads aren't
like they were when you and i learned to drive.
DISTRACTED DRIVERS ON CELL PHONES ARE ABSOLUTELY EVERYWHERE,
worse than the most impaired driver imaginable and its every other car.stop signs are
now optional to the average young driver
no abs,wet roads and a bit of excessive gas pedal means a spin out.
no traction control,see above
view is limited.these cars require more user intervention
too much power and rwd
look for a v6,nice,cheap,easy to manage then if she adapts move up to more power.
again,just my opinion but ive seen to many young drivers end up hurt or worse,they need as many safety advantages as humanly possible
Last edited by 1986BANDIT; Aug 26, 2020 at 09:19 PM.
I appreciate your inputs. I’m not talking toss the 16 year old keys to the Camaro and give her a full tank of gas. I’m talking learning to work on it (and her little sisters too) and then learning to drive it with dad. FYI I live in NM, I think I remember snow sticking to the streets on time 10 years ago. And it rains like 14 days a year. Lol.
i couldn't live with myself walking by that car for 10 years and not driving it,especially in new mexico/i live in canada and count the days till i can drive again,i hate snow/winter/sh>i<t weather......