threw the wheels on. dont mind the tires, this is mostly to see how the wheels fit. anyways fronts have 2" spacers rears i took off the 2" spacers. i ordered some 1 inch and 1.5 inch adapters to see if i can get them to sit a little nicer. the rear tires are probably going to go on the front wheels. then gonna most likely get some nt05rs for the rear. have to figure out the lowering after my turbo kit is done, gotta see how much all that weighs it down. it has suspension technniques lowering springs on it.


heres the front with a 2" spacer.




this is the rear with no spacers.




\and then a side shot.

 

ordered a tick master cylinder. got the 1.5" adapters in. might put them on later or wait for the weekend. its hot. lol

 

Finished putting everything back together so she is mobile again. Found the bolt I needed so I installed a NEW water pump, new upper and lower hose, new belt, reman ac delco alternator from the dealership.

 

Fixed (i hope) another leaking moser axle seal on the ole 9". Took off the rodended control arms, installed my stock control arms that i boxed and put new rubber bushings in. Yrs ago when i took these modded control arms off for the rodednded parts, the poly bushings just fell out of their shells and were crumbling. Getting older now and back to enjoying a conversation while driving.

 

LOL!!

I remember at age 20/21 my dad telling me 4.11 gears were too much for the street. In retrospect, I believe he was right 😬

 

Kept the gears and going spool soon ! lol

 

bought a tick master cylinder. hopefully install that today and hopefully get a decent pedal now. also might try and fit my wheels better with the stack of wheel adapters i bought.

 

changed out the master and now i have clutch pedal. figured out which wheel adapters work perfect. 1.5" in front and 1" in the rear.





front with 1.5" adapter


rear with 1" adapter

 

buddy found these for me on offerup so went and picked them up. 295/40/18 Nitto NT05



saw this on one of the stickers. interesting.

 

No drifting duties for those two.

 

Okay I'm going to try this again, not sure how it got into a different thread. During this stay at home order I replaced the tie rods, center link, pitman arm, idler arm, ball joints, control arm bushings, sway bar bushings and end links on my Formula. I repacked the wheel bearings. Blasted and painted everything before re-assembling. Also wire brushed everything I can get to on the subframe. I'm bummed it seems the steering wheel isn't quite centered but it's going back after the new tires are on it, their age scares me. I'm finally getting around to painting the Hawks spoiler but then it snowed here yesterday.

 

When you change all the steering parts, you need to get an alignment. Wait until the new tires are on.
Don't use the factory alignment specs. Ask SOFA for the specs you want to have the shop use. He posted them recently.
And don't let them use the specs that come up on their computer. If they won't use the ones you supply, then go someplace else.

Link to SOFA's alignment specs: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ml#post6356753

 

Thanks NoEmissions and sofa, I'm taking it back for the steering wheel after tires and will see if they will work with me. I just looked at my printed results and they are off a little from sofa's specs.

 

 

took the stretchy boi tires off the wheels and put some meats on. although now i feel like i need a taller tire out front. also noticed i need to adjust my panhard bar now. tried pressurizing my fuel system and found a leak on the return side fitting i had welded on. took it to my buddies and no matter how good they welded it they it still seeped through the welds. good thing is i think that was the only leak soo far. going to probably flare the tube and put one of those fancy fittings. stiiiillllllllllllllll waiting to take the car to my buddies shop so he can build my turbo kit.

 

Today I attempted to install new Corbeau seats. I only attempted because these brackets are horribly fabricated. The bolt openings barely fit and will need to be opened up to even sit square. The front of the bracket sits way too high and will have to be cut and welded to fit properly or i'll be sitting at a ridiculous angle. I've heard of these issues with cheaper brackets but I thought that wouldn't be an issue with an $1100 price tag from Corbeau. Very dissapointed.

 

Put a rear view camera cause i cant see squat out the back window.

 

that looks awesome!!

 

what engine was in your iroc stock? i think you just did a massive downgrade power wise,but as long as you are happy right?

if you had a tpi 305 before(and carb swapped it) you had about 200+,your crossfire is 175 maybe....

 

the 295s look sick on the back of your car.thats what i was looking for,what rim width are your rears?

 

Shifter came out looking sweet!

 

...........

 

 

theyre 18x9 in the front and 18x10 in the rear

 

.

 

..

 

swapped out my stock push rods for some texas speed hardened ones.

 

Installed new headlights

 

1)i installed my 9 bolt 3.27 rear in my trans am (after reconditioning,sandblasting,painting etc)
2)i also installed my umi torque arm and umi trans mount /crossmember
3)i installed my umi adjustable pan hard bar.
4)i temporarily fixed my exhaust and put money on a true dual setup that was on my friends 11 second 383 iroc(he is going ls/long tubes)
5)I had tires installed on my bbs reps (18 x 8" and 18x9" )fronts went on fine,cheap used 255/35/r18 rears were destroyed when i tried to have them installed(should've bought new but not enough money)
6)i installed my rim spacers front and rear so i have better fitment when i swap out my bbs reps

(i also reinstalled everything that had to be removed to do this swap,what a darn pita)
the 10 bolt is gone and ive stepped up from 2.92s to 3.27s and im happy.


10 bolt going bye bye

reconditioned 9 bolt

new stance,wheels look better even with the fender lips.cant wait for the bbs lm reps to be ready....

 

were did you get these and how much?

 

my lights?
They were built by Killerwatts Retrofits on FB and Instagram.
They are made to order but are true projector headlights. I can PM you photos of mine being built. Was about $400 but that included the lights and harness.

 

What projectors did they use? $400 is not too shabby if they're good ones.

 

Acme H1 standards iirc , my car is on stands at the moment but should have it on the road once i put the rear back in tomorrow. I will get a better photo on an empty road

 

Finished my garage built torque arm. Still a few tweeks that have to wait till I get new wheels and tires on up front.

 

That leather really looks classy. Did you have a shop do the handles? I don't know if I missed an earlier post.

 

I had the same problem, but I hadn't welded anything. It must have been another fuel line connection, or the O-ring.

Last year I dropped the tank and replaced my fuel pump, and this year I failed CA smog because they said the vapor recovery was leaking from the top of the tank. Rather than pull it all down again, mickey-mouse a pressure test, try to find it and put it back together by Monday morning (it's my DD), and reschedule, instead I had the shop fix it, but then my suspension made an annoying rumble bobble noise.

After checking the torque on a few things, this weekend I finally came to the LCA bolts, and the rear ones were just spinning! Fortunately the rust kept them from falling off. It's always the last place you look, because then you stop looking.

 

Handles ? You mean the horseshoe? I did the whole thing, leather and all.Made a thread here.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/inte...-ya-third.html

 

got bored today and decided to rip out my interior. guess ill do black carpet but keep everything grey. also going to re-wire everything. hated all the cut up wiring and stuff. just want it all cleaned up. also probably goin to add some sound deadener stuff.

 

Fix my ecu/tcu mounting with a OE ecm bracket and relocated the tcu nearby.

 

I see the infamous fuel pump mod. Looking at it it is VERY tempting to do since I need to change my pump soon. Not that I would.....maybe......

 

I decided to install my jegs bolt in subframe connectors today. told the wife last night and this morning that was my plan for the day. so she wanted to go to lunch and then run errands for two additional hours. I lost most of the day. got a bit done though

 

previous owner cut it. luckily they did a fairly clean job compared to some ive seen. im not against them. honestly theres tons of GM cars that have them and these should have had one.

 

ran some of the new wiring harness, gotta make a bracket to hold the fuse box. got a new factory 4th gen hurst shifter and installed that. the guy has a 03-04 cobra shifter handle welded ot it but i dont like it so im probably gonna change it. also got these 6th gen calipers. already spoke with bigbrakeupgrade as to what i need just gotta get the extra cash.

 

you should have sent her on her way to do the things she wanted,then did the things you wanted.thats the key to successful relationships and avoiding resentment(this is my Dr Phil impersonation)

 

cant decide if i like this,or......

this,or............black or gold?????????? anyone chime in or have an opinion.im getting sick of masking and painting

 

made a bracket to mount my universal harness fuse block then mounted it. now just gotta run the wiring, hopefully hook everything up correctly then put everything back together. oh and i ordered some seats but theyre on back order til the end of the month.

 

Silver, or natural IMO.

 

i thought i would try grey,idk if i really love it but it seems to grow on me(probably laziness,they've been three colors in the last week and im not ready to do it again)
i absolutely couldnt in good faith put these on when they were the original PURPLE COLOR? (someone painted them purple before i bought them)
the rear tires are temporary(and were free) i think im going for 275/40/r18s.

i also have wider spacers for the front but need to do a little re-engineering with the cnc lathe as they don't quite go over the front rotor hub .
they easily will with a small reworking of a shoulder that's interfering.these are currently 1" spacers on the front now and 1 1/2s on the back.
i may need 2" on the rear with the fatter rubber and put the 1 1/2s on the front.there is zero rubbing currently,unlike using my cross-lace
rears on the front with a 1" spacer,they rubbed even at 3/4 of a turn either way(i guess 1" is too wide?)

 

That looks nice on a white car. I thought the blue one was yours.

 

finished installing my subframe connectors. car still up on stands though