but wally world has the 5-30 for 17bucks in 5quart jugs.

Viscoscity index (the most important test for an oil) on zero-30 is the best there is. 5-30 is a close second.

Pour points and flash points are almost off the scale. Much better than all others.

Redline and all the other exotic synths are good but too expensive to be worth the trouble.

 

I run 10w-30, I used to run 5w-30 and when i first came on to this board alot of people where saying switch to syntheitic and use 10w-30 so thats why I use it.

 

what ever i use it will be Mobil 1 syntheitic
but what i want to know is why 5W-30,why 10W-30
any one have any technical info.

 

5w-3 is whats written on your oil cap. But people use the thicker 10-30 cuase its thicker, works better in cold, resists heat alittle more. I don't know the science facts. Do a search. Mobil 1 is a big topic.

 

20/50 Vr1 Racing.

The brand? Because it says racing. :finger:

The weight? Figured a heavier weight oil for the worn valve seals, but even after my new heads.. I still use it. Dunno, old habits are hard to break.

 

Actually, 10w30 would work better in hotter climates, as it is thicker than 5w30 I also use synthetic 10w30. I know that 5 is recommended. But, with the ambient temperatures reaching 115+, I am a bit skittish about the lighter stuff. I realize that with the synthetics it is not so much of an issue. But, seeing the oil pressure drop still does not do my old heart any good.

Generally, I use Mobil 1, as well. I am not particularly picky as to which synthetic for the car. However, in the bike I do buy the $8 per quart stuff. With the cheaper oils, the rocker arms tend to flake on the tip by the valve. Italian stuff is expensive to fix, so I prefer to avoid this problem. Of course, I digress, as you weren't asking about the motorcycle.

I have read that Castrol Syntec is not a true synthetic. It is supposedly a mineral base with synthetic additives. Do not take this as gospel, just something I saw. I cannot remember where I spied the article. Maybe someone else saw the same info.

 

Mobil One 10W-30...I have used it on every GM product I have owned, and never had one car burn oil(ANY OIL) or have any engine problems at all...

1994 S10 - 99,000 miles, and traded in
1995 Z28 - Still goin strong at 90,000
1991 Formula 305TPI - 126,000 and NO SMOKING or any other problems....

 

Mobil 1 is a good product. AMSOIL is even better.

The number with the "W" behind it is commonly called the "winter" rating; in reality it's the viscosity at zero degrees F. A 5W oil must fall withing a certain range at that temp, a 10W will have a slightly higher range, 0W slightly lower range, etc. The 5W's and lower must also have a pour point no higher than -20 F - 10W's and higher don't have that requirement. That typically isn't a concern with synthetic based oils (certainly not Mobil 1 or AMSOIL), but should be considered in cold climates in cars that sit outside over night using petroleum-based oils.

The second number (or the one without the "W"), is the high temperature viscosity, measured at 200 degrees F. Typical multi-season petroleum-based oils use a polymer called a "viscosity-index improver" additive, or VI improver, that expands when hot to keep the oil thicker when hot. The bigger the span between the "W" number and the 2nd number, the more of the VI improvers they have to use, and these additives are the first thing to break down under heat and stress. Synthetics tend to have more thermal stability, so less of these VI improvers have to be used, sometimes none at all. So, a 5W30 synthetic will most likely be just as good at high temps as a 10W30 (in fact, with the viscosity band overlap, they could even be exactly the same oil put into two different labels).

Personally, I'm using 0W30 AMSOIL in my family cars and van, and have 10W30 in the Camaro right now (will probably go back to 0W30 at the next change). I typically use 20W50 racing in the '57, but have also used the 0W30 and 10W30.

 

Good info from fivesevenkid. If I would have pulled my head out of my <)*%, I would have known this. By the way, are you an Amsoil dealer?

Also, how much work was it to fit and 8.2 ten bolt into the '57. Was it close in width? What did you pull it out of?

 

I'm a dealer so I can get the products at a reduced price (I've got 5 vehicles to support). I sell to some friends who want the products but aren't interested in the dealer aspect.

The 8.2" came out of a '71 Nova. I cut off the factory spring saddles, welded on a universal set at the '57 spring width, had some custom u-bolts bent up (the '57 bolts were a little short with the saddles I used) put the '57 park brake cables and brake lines on, bolted it in. The Nova rear is about 1/4" wider at the wheel face than the '57 rear.

 

i use 10w30 pennzoil synthitic. because it was run in my car before i bought it.

 

www.ftc.gov/opa/2001/02/zmax.htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9909/prolong.htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9904/motorup5.htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9707/slick.htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1999/9905/duralub2.htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1995/9512/stp/htm
www.ftc.gov/opa/1997/9710/valve.htm
www.1st-in-synthetics.com/newsletter_1000.htm
www.1st-in-synthetics.com/dyno_test.htm