SketchyZed

Okay backstory got my intake leak fixed two weeks ago got it all fixed mechanic said to change your oil in case of old gasket fell down in the motor it was wendys I was gonna do it Sunday, Sunday night getting ready to do it i start heaing a ticking/knocking noise I change the oil didn't see metal flaked or anything so I don' know what it could be timing, engine, transmission because the mechanic didn't have his timeing light with him at the shop so we had to mark it down where to put It a few days or so later ask him if you take a look at it he said the something wrong with cylinder number 2 I really hope it' not the motor could it be timing?

video https://youtu.be/XJfmGElSgBg

Pro

It sounds like a lifter to me

SketchyZed

I hope is something simple or easy i'm gonna check it tomorrow

Btw i like your z and silverado

SketchyZed

My oil pressure is real low too when I'm driving it's at 30 but at idle it's just right about the red

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

With the engine running , wearing a well insulated glove (rubber preferred) , pull the wire off of the #2 sparkplug . Does the ticking go away or remain the same ? Next , a properly done cylinder compression test will tell the tale as to the overall health of the engine and of course will reveal more clues as to what's up with the #2 cylinder (if that cylinder is indeed "at fault" , so far I'm not all that convinced on the "something wrong" diagnosis) . Also , pulling the valve covers and checking the rockers for excessive play might reveal a thing or two if you find any excessively loose .

PS , if your basing your fears of low oil pressure on the factory dashboard "gauge" , Don't ! These gauges truly are eye candy only and not to be taken seriously as any kinds of real , accurate measuring instrument . You want to know your actual oil pressure it's best to buy an aftermarket gauge from a reputable company and use that .

red rock

iTrader: (2)

I can't imagine a reputable mechanic not being a little careful from letting debris fall inside the oil valley. Covering the valley with shop towels while cleaning off gasket material is priority one with me. Anyway, maybe a bad plug wire, or distributor cap. If the engine ran fairly fine before the work was done, (no ticking), then more than likely it is "work" related.

SketchyZed

this weekend im going to check the rockers and all the valve train and for that spark wire trick never thought of that i will try that as well.

As for my mechanic did have something over the motor to protect it but the second time i walked in i didn't see anything over it, like i said i waited a few more days to do an oil change and that night i did do it driving home with the oil like it just started making that noise like right after i got in the car leaving the parts store

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not "timing". Unless you left the bolt loose (not saying that "didn't happen", just...) it's the same as it was before. Didn't change.

Sounds to me like excessively enthusiastic "test driving".

I remember a guy back in the early 80s, lived across the street from me... there was a big parking lot next door to me, belonged to a church... d00d parked his car over there, musta been about a 70 or so Mopar something yuuuujjje like a Polara or something... he would work on it a little bit, "test" it, work a bit more, "test" it, "test" it, "test" it, a bit more, "test" it, "test" it, more, "test" it, "test" it, "test" it, ... every time, we'd hear him over there, repeatedly, ... waaaaaaWOOOOOOP.... waaaaaWWOOOOOOOOP .... one day it was more like, waaaaWWWWWOOOOOOOOOclackclackclackclackclack ... I bet he was wondering about "timing" as his oil ran down the hill outta the hole in his block. We laughed but felt kinda guilty, I guess you could say, schandenfreude if you speak that language. He got a new car and threw away that one acoupla days later, an "IROC" if memory serves; a Misstoobitchy (badged as some kinda Xler) "Daytona". What a joke.

I hope that's not what happened to you, I wouldn't wish that on ANYBODY, but, not having been there, ... no way to know.

Hope for the best, prepare for the worst.

Pro

Are not the valves self adjusting on the 80s+ engines

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not really... they work the same as any other 55-up small block Chevy. Or big block Chevy. (same part # of the lifters)

What are you REALLY asking? Are you fishing for some kind of "hope" (false fantasy) that whatever happened, didn't REALLY happen? What REALLY happened? It's OK, it's just the Internet, it's not like billions of people can see; what REALLY happened? Go on, you can tell us. We won't judge. It's only REALITY after all, not the least bit like "reality" TV, kinda more nearly somewhat like "the Real World" whatever that is nowadays (not sure myself...). All we want to know is, what REALLY happened in between "change your oil" and "ticking/knocking noise". Please, no shame, no guilt, no "defend yourself", no "you're a Trump supporter because ... " no "you're being hard on me because I'm only an alternate winner", none of that; just, THE TRUTH. What REALLY happened?

Can I emphasize any more fully, "REALLY", "REALITY", "TRUTH", stuff like that? No defending yourself, no making excuses, no "I just"... all I'm asking is, TELL THE TRUTH.

SketchyZed

I asked my mechanic to take a look at it he said it sounds like a rod bearing, i wanted to make sure so i looking up the noise and found a bunch of things so im trying them one at a time.

My question is if it was a rod bearing wouldn't i have a loss of power because when i drive it feels like i have plenty of power.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not sure what that is. Around here, we mostly do OUR OWN work, so we know what we've seen. Whether we know what that means, is another matter altogether. But AT LEAST, we turn the bolts ourselves, and LOOK AT the parts ourselves, and that way, when we post on the Internet, we have some sort of FACTS to allow the world at large to help us.

Rod bearing problems don't necessarily show up as "loss of power". (not necessarily right away, that is) I drove a motor with a BROKEN CRANKSHAFT to a job I needed to do, then back home, then INTO MY GARAGE, with the sumbitch broken completely OFF. Made lots of noizzzze, but it DROVE, completely normal in rush-hour freeway traffic in a major metro area, with the crank BROKE IN HALF. That was a 400, with the classic 400 crank failure, where the front-most throw met the 1-2 journal. Drove another car with spun (not just EFFFed, SPUN) rod bearing for 2 whole days (had to schlepp a female around, or at least, being young dumb and full of c... you know what) rod bearings, literally stuck to the crank and eating the rod, for 2 whole days. You know what the power of those body parts does to males; it cost me ABUNCHA money, and there was no ,,, .. , ... compensation. Oh well, that was back in the 70s, ya lives and ya learns, and I can only hope that I did, from that one.

My good judgment is the result of my experience. OTOH, my experience is the result of my BAD judgment.

The object of the exercise now is, figure out what went wrong. "Plenty of power" isn't exactly a definitive diagnostic.

Tell us what you REALLY did. TRUTH. That's all I ask. Tell me the TRUTH, no matter how much it hurts to admit it, and I'll help you. (as will others, some MUCH smarter and more experienced than myself) Or, persist in a bunch of "alternate winner" "I didn't do nuthin" DENIAL crap, and you'll NEVER figure out what the chain of events was that led to where you are now. Just TELL THE TRUTH. That's the only way we can help you. TRUTH.

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

To properly answer your question , and to explain why I would have him check the rockers for excess play , you must first understand that the "self adjusting" ability of any hydraulic lifter is limited to a rather small range indeed . When extreme wear happens in the valvetrain to where the lifter can no longer compensate for the play you will begin to hear the tell tale ticking . A wiped cam lobe , for example can cause far more play in the valve assembly than any hydraulic lifter could possibly compensate for , same for a rocker stud that has begun to pull out of the head and other failures of the sort .

A manifold vacuum check , as well as the compression test I mentioned earlier , really oughta be on Zed's short list , and again a check of the actual oil pressure with a real gauge may not be a bad idea here either .....

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Have you looked up schadenfreude yet? I'm over that; certainly don't have it any more; all the same, you'll come across people on here with it. You'll also come across cheerleaders, who will simply tell you what they think you want to hear, instead of THE TRUTH. Let's stick with THE TRUTH however uncomfortable (or reassuring) it might be.

SketchyZed

tuesday i can do a compression test and i will tell you what news pops up from it

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Not likely to tell you much about knocking type noises; go ahead and do it if you want, but don't expect much useful information re. the noise to come out of it.

SketchyZed

Yeah well i've done some looking and hearing and it is the rod bearing... i had my friend over and he said if you want you can buy my 355 for 800 i said i'll think about it over the weekend, and since i will most likely swap my motor for a new one i'm like @#%$ it lets go carb while we are at it.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Bummer d00d... it never ends, does it.

SketchyZed

no.. fix one thing another thing breaks

gm muscle

Can you afford to rebuild the motor? If so, that would be a better way to go.

SketchyZed

after with dealing with tpi and all that headache no i don't want to plus the 355 is built with a 292 cam, i don't know what heads but most of the work i wanted for my 350 is already done with the 355 i am going to keep the 350 and build it one day just wont be tpi