I just installed headers and I'm curious. Could someone look at my sig and tell me what kind of horsepower you think I'm pushing? Desktop Dyno 2000 says 295 hp and over 400 ft lbs of torque. I know full well the torque numbers are ridiculous (I've heard that about DD 2000's torque numbers), but is the hp close?

 

New and stock your engine was rated at what? 235-240 HP and 330-340ft/bs.

All your mods may have gotten you 15-25hp and tq, max...IMO.

 

here is another age old horsepower question does mothballs raise compression lol

 

If it does, how do you get their little legs apart without breaking.

 

actually the moth ball trick does work, but i wouldnt do it on a FI car, as for the origanal question, desktop dyno figures in a fresh new engine with all the good stuff (all clearances correct, roller rockers,..etc) they dont have a setting for log manifolds and y-pipe only duels, it doesnt factor in tired, beat on 10-15 plus year old engines. it is very accurate when eveything is put in correctly. i've seen 3 seprate dyno sheets to the desk top dyno and all were within 5 HP

 

Haha! Poor moths.

 

Actually, although my engine has 106K miles, it's never been beat on...at least you'd never tell it. I know the original owner and the guy had fresh Mobil 1 every 3000 miles and didn't drive like a maniac. I took the valve covers off to put the headers in, and it was pure metal in there...not a BIT of sludge. I flushed my radiator and the coils in side were bare metal...no corrosion at all. So, for what it's worth, I think my internally untouched engine is probably in better shape than most. My car had 240/330 from the factory and it appears to me that I should be around the 275/375 range as it sits now.

 

BWAHAHAHAHA @ poor moths


DD2k can be very accurate...but you have to enter EVERYTHING accuratly. The exact cam specs, the real flowbench numbers for your heads, and realisticly low numbers for TPI intake cfm.

 

Desktop dyno exaggerates the power added from headers a lot, although it does a decent job of creating the tuned port torque and horsepower curves. This is probably because you can only choose "small tube headers with mufflers" instead of "edelbrock tes headers."

 

In dtd when you pick the type of cam, pick hyd for a factory hyd roller. The factory rollers' lift curve is no more intense
then a flat tappet hyd.
Accuracy is also improved if you enter the actual seat running
duration instead of the .050" numbers.
This "seat duration" can and does vary widely from the published specs.
DTD also always assumes the exhaust system and airfuel ratio is of perfect optimized design, which is rarely the case in the real world.

 

You can pick up Camquest for all the accurate cam specs. It contains about 3500 different grinds.

As mentioned above, DD2000 is only as accurate as the data that's inputed. Garbage in, Garbage out. It's no different than using a G-Tech. Input wrong numbers and get wrong results.

As for the mothballs:
http://newton.dep.anl.gov/askasci/chem00/chem00485.htm

 

Like f-bird said, the factory's roller cams are no more intense than their flat tappets. They didn't manage to figure out that part of the benefits of a roller system. They simply transferred their lame grinds such as the "peanut" cam onto a roller blank. What a shame.

I'd suspect that the addition of headers by themselves would have increased your engine's output by no more than 20 HP, and probably less than that. However, it's the best first mod for these cars, without which you won't get the full benefit of anything else you do.

Mods don't just "add up" like some people would like to believe. Some things do almost nothing by themselves, but only work together in combination with other things. Headers work together with other things that improve flow: in the case of these motors, cams and heads, particularly. Change any one of those things and you don't get all that much. On the other hand, change all 3 of them as a matched group, and you can get tremendous improvements.