Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2018
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Recently purchased an 87 gta 5.0 not mechanically inclined don't want to get ripped off by shops. What should I have done to insure vehicle is safe to run and run properly?
Member
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 207
Likes: 7
From: Connecticut
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: Hot 355ci
Transmission: Beefed TH350
Axle/Gears: 4:10
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 12,213
Likes: 1,140
From: Il
Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Was it inside or outside for that long?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 193
From: New England
Car: 1988 IROC Z Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: G80 GU2
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
I’m sure you’ll get a ton of good advice from members here. Depends if it was sitting outside as well as what part of the country if so. Would also depend if the owner started it and moved it once in a while to keep the tires from getting flat spots. This is what I look for:
-Tires (age and dry rot)
-Brakes (get them cleaned up and inspected). Look at the rotors for wear and brake pads. You should have more than 1/4 inch of pad and rotors should not have excessive grooves, make noise or pulsate when braking.
-Exhaust (any holes, rusted out from sitting). Even on concrete exhaust will rust from condensation. Listen underneath for leaks.. noise and air should be coming from the back.. Catalytic converters will make rattling noises under the passenger side when they go bad.
-Battery and Alternator (car starts and keeps a charge)
-Check belts and (maybe just put new ones on.. it’s pretty quick and easy)
-Check brake lines and fuel lines for rust.
-Change Fuel Filter (if it’s rusted on, don’t attempt it). Had a buddy that bought a 86 Firebird that sat and he thought it died.. we changed the fuel filter and it was fine.
-Oil Leaks (is there oil spots where car sat?). Check oil level and get an idea of how urgent leaks may be.
-Change Oil and filter.
-Check transmission fluid (should look clean and be free of burning smells)
-Does the engine puff blue smoke on startup? (Leaky valve seals.. not a big deal but sitting will dry up the seals)
-Are the front end bushings dried out and old? Do they creak? How does the car drive/handle?
-Check the ball joints (jack up the front wheels and look for play and clicking sound when working the wheels )
-Check coolant and make sure when running the thermostat kicks on, fan comes on and there’s no overheating.
-Suspension (how does the car sit). These cars were pretty tight and unforgiving hitting bumps but if it’s floaty that would need to be addressed. Front end might need to be addressed at some point.
-How does the exhaust look/smell? Look for billowing white smoke or blue smoke. Light puffs from condensation are normal. Exhaust should smell like typical car exhaust. Sweet smell is coolant, snowmobile smell is oil and if it’s running rich it will smell like gasoline.
-Check engine compartment, trunk, air filters, etc for evidence of critters. Inspect for chewed wires, droppings, shells of acorns, seeds, etc. Change the air filter(s).
-Make sure the gas is good. I’d think a year would be fine but get some 93 in there..
If you’re gonna drive the car any distance, I’d get a second opinion by someone who can put the car up and go through a thorough checklist like if you’re picking the car up from more than an hour away. You’ll get to know the car in time, but picking up a strange car that’s been sitting is always an adventure!
update us on the car!
-Tires (age and dry rot)
-Brakes (get them cleaned up and inspected). Look at the rotors for wear and brake pads. You should have more than 1/4 inch of pad and rotors should not have excessive grooves, make noise or pulsate when braking.
-Exhaust (any holes, rusted out from sitting). Even on concrete exhaust will rust from condensation. Listen underneath for leaks.. noise and air should be coming from the back.. Catalytic converters will make rattling noises under the passenger side when they go bad.
-Battery and Alternator (car starts and keeps a charge)
-Check belts and (maybe just put new ones on.. it’s pretty quick and easy)
-Check brake lines and fuel lines for rust.
-Change Fuel Filter (if it’s rusted on, don’t attempt it). Had a buddy that bought a 86 Firebird that sat and he thought it died.. we changed the fuel filter and it was fine.
-Oil Leaks (is there oil spots where car sat?). Check oil level and get an idea of how urgent leaks may be.
-Change Oil and filter.
-Check transmission fluid (should look clean and be free of burning smells)
-Does the engine puff blue smoke on startup? (Leaky valve seals.. not a big deal but sitting will dry up the seals)
-Are the front end bushings dried out and old? Do they creak? How does the car drive/handle?
-Check the ball joints (jack up the front wheels and look for play and clicking sound when working the wheels )
-Check coolant and make sure when running the thermostat kicks on, fan comes on and there’s no overheating.
-Suspension (how does the car sit). These cars were pretty tight and unforgiving hitting bumps but if it’s floaty that would need to be addressed. Front end might need to be addressed at some point.
-How does the exhaust look/smell? Look for billowing white smoke or blue smoke. Light puffs from condensation are normal. Exhaust should smell like typical car exhaust. Sweet smell is coolant, snowmobile smell is oil and if it’s running rich it will smell like gasoline.
-Check engine compartment, trunk, air filters, etc for evidence of critters. Inspect for chewed wires, droppings, shells of acorns, seeds, etc. Change the air filter(s).
-Make sure the gas is good. I’d think a year would be fine but get some 93 in there..
If you’re gonna drive the car any distance, I’d get a second opinion by someone who can put the car up and go through a thorough checklist like if you’re picking the car up from more than an hour away. You’ll get to know the car in time, but picking up a strange car that’s been sitting is always an adventure!
update us on the car!
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 193
From: New England
Car: 1988 IROC Z Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: G80 GU2
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Well if the car was solid, reliable and maintained and then sat a year what Drew said is all good..
I was assuming you’re talking about a 30 year old car that you don’t know the history of and are buying it from someone who claims, “it’s been sitting a year or so..”
if if it was in a garage and started up once in a while that would be great..
I am a maniac about even storing my car for a few months though..
I was assuming you’re talking about a 30 year old car that you don’t know the history of and are buying it from someone who claims, “it’s been sitting a year or so..”
if if it was in a garage and started up once in a while that would be great..
I am a maniac about even storing my car for a few months though..
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
Drew nailed it . A year ? Christ I've had yard equipment sit 2 or 3 years and fire up like it was just run yesterday (course I DO use gas stabilizer in all but my daily drivers) . PS , to the original poster ;
If your gonna own a 30+ year old car , your gonna have to get past that "not mechanically inclined" train of thought and start learning the basics unless you've got SO much money that paying $80 to $150 per hour shop labor rates (plus the shop's markup on parts) don't scare ya ....
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2016
Posts: 2,406
Likes: 193
From: New England
Car: 1988 IROC Z Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI (LB9)
Transmission: 700 R4
Axle/Gears: G80 GU2
Re: Advice for gta that's been sitting for over year
PS , to the original poster ;
If your gonna own a 30+ year old car , your gonna have to get past that "not mechanically inclined" train of thought and start learning the basics unless you've got SO much money that paying $80 to $150 per hour shop labor rates (plus the shop's markup on parts) don't scare ya ....
Would be great if it was stored inside and had fuel stabilizer. I had gas go bad in a year in a tractor. Guy I got it from didn’t use premium gas and didn’t put stabilizer in it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
evilemokid94
Transmissions and Drivetrain
3
Aug 12, 2012 01:44 AM
verc
V6
9
Aug 23, 2004 11:59 PM
scauffiel
Tech / General Engine
9
Jul 1, 2001 12:33 PM