I pulled out my idle air control valve to clean it and noticed that 2 of the plastic boots that go around the pins are missing. Can you buy these anywhere or should I just get a new connector and splice the wires? Its the connector coming from the motor not the connector on the valve. Thanks.

 

This ?
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Green-10-Ga-M...IAAOSwDkpaXn~k

 

No these black plastic cylinders around each of the 4 pins.

 

You can buy a new connector, those help align the pins .
Delphi 12015798
You will also need a pin release tool
https://m.ebay.com/itm/Delphi-Packar...wAAOSwOMlavAGq

 

Awesome thanks! Heres mine

 

Just pay attn to which cavity you pulled what wire from. You might want to do them one at a time.

 

Thank you. I will

 

Got this all done and my stalling problem did not go away? The car starts fine idles fine but when slowing down for a light or stop sign the idle while in drive dips below 500 rpm and I get a partial loss of the power brakes. I usually try and throw it in neutral its a automatic 700r4 sometimes it will stall if I do not throw it in neutral sometimes not. The brake booster vacuum line and booster itself are good. Cant figure this one out. I have seen many with this same issue but no real answers?

 

Just for fun, find the two wire plug on the brake pedal. Should be the one with a transparent connector and a pink/black wire. Unplug it, and test drive the car to see if it helps. What it does is bypass the torque converter clutch. Sometimes the TCC solenoid will pop the fuse, other times it'll just make the engine stall when you come to a stop and it doesn't unlock. If it clears up the problem, replace the TCC and plug it back in.

Might also want to make sure the check valve on your brake booster flows in, but not out.

 

Yeah I will give it a try. I had the tranny put in by a chevy dealer 3 years ago. It shifted so poorly I took it back and they bypassed the lockout. Its been great. Its still under warranty. I will give this a try and see what happens. Thanks

 

If I'm lucky its the brake booster check valve!

 

I think I found the problem. Tps voltage was just over 4 volts. I have been so busy havent had time to adjust it to 5.40 guess I will do it tomorrow.

 

Your decimal is off .54 lol

 

Yes haha! You are correct

 

It’s normal to see 4-5v on the grey wire. Just make sure your setting the tps at idle on the blue wire and ground or the black wire.

 

Yes I am thanks. I just replaced the intake manifold gaskets and all the gaskets on the throttle body. It may have gotten bumped around a bit.

 

Yes, its bad. I cant even get a steady voltage reasing off it. Jumps all over the place. Its the original part so I will replace it. If this doesnt solve the low idle stalling when coming to a stop. I just dont know what the hell it could be?

 

If the voltage isn’t steady you might want to check the 5v reference line. If it’s fluxuates the ecm would be bad.

 

I hope not. I will spend the 30 bucks on a tps

 

I will for sure check that reference line first though. Thanks. Its maddening when its not throwing a code for this.

 

Glad you stumbled across the tps . You would think you would have a code 21 or 22.

 

Yeah. I thought there would be some kind of code for this problem? Before I loosened the torx bolts it was reading.22 which is way off? I set this a couple years ago and it was simple and smooth to dial it in to .54 now its nearly impossible. So I guess I will put in a new one Friday and keep my fingers crossed!

 

Indeed it was the TPS. What a relief! I just took it off and cleaned it up real nice and re installed it. No more low idle or stalling at stops!

 

Good find , glad you got it going again