Yes I know I used the search function and got a little info.
Option 1:
Modding my Stock 350 TPI Motor. From searching I see that Aluminum Heads and a Roller Cam is what I want?
https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/camshafts/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i/year/1987/cam-style/hydraulic-roller-tappet/department/engines-components/camshaft-usage/street?N=4294891642%2B4294951398%2B4294951388%2B4294951379%2B4294950300%2B4294891641%2B4294949512%2B4294891603&SortBy=BestKeywordMatch&SortOrder=Ascending

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/cylinder-heads/make/chevrolet/engine-size/5-7l-350/engine-family/chevy-small-block-gen-i/year/1987/cylinder-head-style/assembled/cylinder-head-material/aluminum?N=4294918484%2B4294951398%2B4294951388%2B4294951379%2B4294950300%2B4294918441%2B4294918482&SortBy=Default&SortOrder=Ascending

Now what I need is some direction in all the little parts I need. I don't know what I need this is why I am asking. I don't have any engine builders close to me that I trust so I am turning to the experienced guy on here.
If I tear the Engine apart I am the type to replace everything in there while its apart to avoid possible problems and further cost down the road. so that leads me to Option 2 below.

Option 2:: LS2 swap is on my mind. But again, I have not found any topics that has basically a list of 100% of the parts needed. If I have to pay someone for their time to make me a list of what I need then I will. I want to start purchasing necessary parts in January so I have EVERYTHING i need by the time I get the Car out of storage in the Spring. I work away from home, so soon as I land I want to have everything I need and have the car running and complete within a week.
I can get an LS2 motor from a friend who owns a salvage yard for $2500 and he claims it has low miles.
I am kinda leaning towards the LS2 swap because I will be keeping the Car probably forever and pass it to my Son. So rather then rebuild the stock 350 maybe I am better with a good reliable engine with alot more HP ?

Thanks in advance for the help!

 

 

That's because there is no list. This is hot rodding. Every single build is in some way, however minimally, different from the last. If you're sure about LS, I believe Hawk's sells a thirdgen LS swap kit for all the specific changes you'll need for a generic LSx type of swap, BUT.....there are still a gazillion choices you'll have to make, and each choice will determine different things on your specific list. -and that's before you even start thinking about old parts that are just worn out or broken and need replacing, and you didn't know until you were elbow deep in wrenching, OR, two aftermarket parts that might fit with factory parts, but not with each other. Even the professional car builders who do this day in and day out can't tell you exactly what will be needed. It just doesn't work like that.

 

 

https://www.hawksmotorsports.com/lsx...nversion-kits/

These are the two LSx swap kits they have, although I believe they'd make one from scratch for you based on your needs. ....but even these assume factory K member, which is by no means a given. ...one assumes headers, the other doesn't. These are specific kits, specifically designed for exactly what you're talking about, and simply by reading the title of the kit, we're already seeing choices that keep it from being a simple black and white list.

Contrary to your first sentence, there's a staggeringly HUGE amount of info on TGO, ya just have to ask the right questions. Search, read, research, and ask some more specific question. Threads are free, post up and ask as many as you'd like. We love helping, but ya gotta narrow down your options a LOT. I would start with SBC or LSx. Make that choice first. ...then go from there.

 

I'd look at taking the harness from the donor, and making it work. There are a few places that do it. My buddy Jon (username Pocket) used to custom build harnesses, but not sure if he still does. Look him up and send him an email. He's made MANY harnesses for guys on TGO and elsewhere.

Yes, mounts needed

You'll need thirdgen specific LS headers and y pipe

 

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/ltx-lsx/

Read the stickies at the top. Seriously....read 'em all. See what the other guys ran into. The reason you probably couldn't find much on searches is because MUCH of the info is in specific threads. Not many "how to swap an LS" threads, but tons of "what kind of fuel pump" or "what kind of headers' or what accessories fit" threads. It can be frustration at the point you're at NOW, but once you realize the level of discussion, and how detailed the topics are, it's MUCH more helpful, and you'll be thankful it's that way.

 

OK guys, much appreciate the info. I am looking on Jegs site now and came across this engine. I am debating cost and simplicity here. my stock motor is still fine, but as said I want more HP. So I am estimating ohhh $2500-$3000 for parts and labour to mod my stock engine. Or buy this for prob $1300 more. I am in Canada so I have to convert US pricing to Canadian funds and the exchange rate SUCKS now.
My TPI system and Hedman Headers should bolt up to this engine correct?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...10007/10002/-1

 

I've always worked with the assumption that LS engines were more plentiful and (usually) of lower mileage the further you got from the equator. Reason being that the trucks rust out or are totaled from winter collisions. My time in Northern Illinois, friends across the northern states and YouTube videos have corroborated this. Not true so much in your case? Down here in the Desert cars last forever so you never see anything newer than 10 years, mostly 15-20 year old stuff with higher mileage.

 

Yes here in Eastern Canada, the body of a vehicle usually only last 8 years. Example is, my 2009 Silverado I sold last September. It had 155,000 kms on it and the wheel wells were starting to rust out. But I never did have that undercoated. Now my Wifes 2008 Honda Civic, which are very known to rust out, we sold that just 2 months ago with 185,000kms, that was regularly undercoated and no signs of Rust

 

Your 87 is a roller cam, that engine is flat tappet cam. ...plus you'll need tuning. The vortec L31 longblock is a better choice at this point. You would need a vortec base manifold. Major drawback is that down the road you'll ultimately be limited on the power it'll make. It's a great engine, from GM, with a warranty, and it's a big step forward. There are some details to go over, but it's a great choice.

It's really a snowball effect while falling down a rabbit hole. If you're gonna add 30 horsepower, you might as well add 40, it's just a couple bucks more. ...and since you're gonna add 40, ya might as well add 60, it's only a couple bucks more. And with that extra power, you might as well do some chassis work, it's only a couple bucks more. ....and if you're gonna do THAT much.....you might consider an LS, it's only a couple bucks more....and so on and so forth.

You need to nail down goals, budget, skills and make a decision. ...otherwise you'll never get started!

 

How much work do you have done NOW?

If you're engine is running fine now... ....a torque converter in your automatic or a T5, a rear gear swap and headers/catback will make a HUGE difference. ....then a cam and tuning.... There's a LOT of performance steps between where you are and a full engine swap.

 

 

The L31 makes 255 hp, assuming it's going in a stock L31 van or truck.

Ok, so basically the the L31 and the 350HO are the same engine minus a few things. They're both 350 small blocks. They're both running 060 Vortec heads. The 350HO actually has LESS compression at 9:1 compared to 9.4:1 like the L31, AND it's got a flat tappet cam instead of a roller. It does have a bigger cam. They drop a single plain and a big carb, rev it as high as it'll go and give it a nice 333HP number to help sales. Minus the cam, the L31 has better compression, roller cam, and is about $1200 less. It's EASILY the way I would go. Spend a few hundred on zz4 or similar sized cam, the rest of your savings on that vortec manifold and some valvetrain upgrades (for the cam) and you have a better engine for the same money, AND....it's ready to drop in.

Also keep in mind that NEITHER engine will make advertised power with that TPI on it. Not to say you'd be unhappy though, as a vortec TPI would be FUN FUN FUN....but it's not gonna dyno as high as a carbed dyno test staged by GM for the press kit. It'll be MUCH faster than it is now.

 

Also keep in mind the transmission. They don't like change. Seriously. Add power to an old 700r4 and ya never know. When I did cam and rear gears to my 89, the 125k mile trans gave out in 2 weeks. Power finds the weakest link. Just be prepared. There's just a lot to it and it takes time to sort it out, but you're on the right track. Just gotta stick with it.

 

Keeping it SBC....for 330-350hp....Im leaning towards a L31 plus cam and valvetrain, a vortec stealthram and some tuning. Not sure the TPI is going to get you there.

 

 

So we're talking lots of educated guestimates here, so I'd hate to say what the power difference between carb and TPI would be. What it DOES do though is move the power band down lower, and provides more useable torque. They're street driven intakes, not quarter mile drag race intakes. It's why they FEEL much faster than...unfortunately, they really are. They don't dyno well, and they don't run good quarter mile numbers, but man are they fun!

...as for porting, you'd need to port the base, get some high flow runners and port them, and port the plenum. Still I don't know if you'd out dyno a carb. I can tell you from experience though, I had a STOCK TPI on a zz4 cammed 350, with full exhaust and a 3.27 gear and it was FUN! -MUCH faster than stock. Still wasn't a 330 HP motor though. On the street it'd stomp my Dad's '12 Corvette with 400 hp, but if had ever drag raced, he woulda won. Don't get TOO caught up with numbers.

I'm here to help. ....that being said, it's really hard to tell YOU, what will best for YOU. TGO has helped me with every build and mod I've done over 20 years, but ultimately what I think is fast, and will make me happy inevitably isn't the same as what will work for you. I can offer advice and amateur experience, but ultimately you're gonna have to own your build. Took me 10 years to be brave enough for a cam swap, and 8 MORE to take on a full engine and Holley EFI build. There's a LOT to it. Ultimately a cammed L31 TPI is an awesome engine, and many people love 'em. Is there better? -yes. Is there worse? -yes. Will it make YOU happy? I don't know.

 

To get a better crate engine than the L31(R) from the GM line-up, a person would have to step up to the ZZ6? or whatever they want to call it now. The 330hp/350HO is just a Vortec 350 that has been machined to support a mechanical fuel pump, and vintage accessories, with a vintage style cam - so it'll be more of a shoehorn replacement for an old school Chevy 350. It costs more for those advantages that don't do a thing for a fuel injected car. GM is pretty much giving away the L31s.

The next real step up, the ZZ6 (or whatever) adds a lot of expense in heads that a TPI isn't going to be able to support, and a forged crank that's wasted at TPI power levels. But that's just my opinion.

LS swaps are nice, but it seems like there's a lot of fiddling around involved with the job. True LS1s are still relatively scarce, it's the multitude of truck engines that makes LS swaps popular. Every time I've looked into the LS swaps, I get about as far as trying to figure out what all the whacky engine codes mean, and which 5.3L or 6.0L is the one a person wants, and I lose interest in the topic. It went from impractical and cost prohibitive to played out overnight. Almost seems like the lazy way out at this point, even for the effort expended. If it didn't mean reading through 20 threads with 15+ pages of replies, it'd be a more attractive topic to research. Realistically, I don't get the impression that many people are doing LS swaps quickly, easily, and for the same money as a typical SBC. But again, that's just my opinion.

 

That's the best advice right there. Don't get caught up thinking you need this or that part because it flows better and makes more power. I have a 400 wheel hp engine in my Z but nobody cares and if I use all that power on the street it's a misdemeanor or in some states a felony. If you'll never or very rarely go drag racing/autocross don't go down the rabbit hole!!

 

I was planning on going over my 700R since I dont know if it ever has been done. I currently have 3:27s and am thinking on 3:43s. Doing some research now on the L31 and the ZZ4 Cam.The car doesn't go on any long trips, but I don't want to go any lower then 343s.
A new L31 with a ZZ4 Cam, add 343s and a shift kit and it should be quite a different animal!

I know it says for Trucks and pretty sure that doesn't matter, but just to be 100% sure, it does bolt into our 3rd gens correct?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...81431/10002/-1

This is the correct cam shaft?
https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Per...85071/10002/-1

"Found this info when using Google. So is it 250 HP or 350 HP? Are they saying its capable of 350HP with certain mods?
The L31 was replaced by the 5.3 L LM7. The 2002 model year was the final year for the L31 5.7 L small block V8 whose origins date back to 1955. The Vortec 5700 produces 255 hp (190 kW) to 350 hp (261 kW) at 4600 rpm and 330 lb⋅ft (447 N⋅m) to 350 lb⋅ft (475 N⋅m) oftorque at 2800 rpm."

 

Get with one of the tuning guys on here like TunePerformance (or something close to that) and ask him if he has any dead on tunes for a specific aftermarket cam and TPI and just buy that cam and the chip from him and you can save yourself a lot of time frustration.

 

Thanks Tibo, will do. What valvetrain do you guys reccommend?
I am making this list and going to make this happen!

 

So the vortec heads, as they come can only handle about .460 lift. Give or take, depends who you ask. Regardless, the zz4 cam is a .478/.510 lift cam, so you'll need to upgrade the valvetrain. I know you said you don't want to buy new and start messing with it, but trust me these are every day run of the mill things. These are not exotic, or backwoods hack mods. The cam swap is straight forward, and the spings/maching/mods have been done a gazillion times. The Alexparts kit even allows you to keep the heads on the engine with no machining. While I have no hands on experience, I've heard of several people that have had good luck with their kit.
https://www.alexsparts.com/valve-spr...ssure-vsk4h53/
...now, you'll still have the stock press in studs, and I'm not sure how much bigger of a cam I'd use without 'em, but for the zz4 you should be ok, especially if it's a street driven car.

 

....and now since you have a direction, google Vortec TPI and look at everything you can. ....come back with questions and comments. You'll be amazed what's out there.

 

You can find reman Vortec heads for around $450 s set. Swap the cam and heads on your engine if it looks good i don't see the need in buying another. I think you will be happy with the Vortecs I've ran them before they make for a stout lil street engine. My friend put a used L98 cam i had in a Vortec 350 in his S10 and it ran 12.90s stock springs and all.

 

Haven't I read that the stock Vortec heads will handle .480+ lift with LS6 beehives and Comp retainers?

Tons of info on using Vortecs with a larger cam. Hit Google and wham!

 

I ran a can with.465 lift on stock Vortecs , yes stock springs no problems. I've heard some guys say they ran cams with up to .475 lift and I've also heard of folks having problems at .455 lift. Guess it would be good insurance to run Alex spring kit. I'm still debating using my 083s or going Vortec on my build myself. If I do i will run Alex spring kit, for the $ it's good insurance.

 

This was my original thought. Simple but effective. But then I am looking at it as, the rest of the engine components have 90,000 miles on them so I cant in good conscience put some new parts in and not replace everything. Then the cost of parts and labour adds up to more then the L31 Engine with ZZ4 cam.

 

Soooo....I just made a deal for a 1988 GTA Hard-top, Solid Body, All Leather Interior, great shape overall. It needs paint as its faded and some very minor surface rust. The Car needs a motor though as it bent a valve and push rod is what I am told. So I will take the Engine out of my IROC and put in the GTA, paint it and flip it and make more than enough to cover my costs for the IROC Upgrades.
Also in the deal I am getting a 1985 TA with a carbed 350 in it, full disc brake rear end. I will be able to sell these parts and that will cover the purchase price of the 2 cars I am buying this weekend.

 

Sounds good. You really cant beat $1800 for that crate engine. You could very well spend that much having your other rebuilt for sure.