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Distributor

Old Feb 9, 2019 | 11:45 AM
  #1  
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From: Accord NY
Car: 90 IROC original owner
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Distributor



Found this when I pulled the intake for a gasket leak.
27k miles
Is there a fix or do I get a new one
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 12:22 PM
  #2  
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Car: 1989-92 FORMULA350 305 92 Hawkclone
Engine: 4++,350 & 305 CIs
Transmission: 700R4 4800 vig 18th700R4 t56 ZF6 T5
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9"ford alum chunk,dana44,9bolt
Re: Distributor

Just clean it up and regoop the ign module. Don't use carb cleaner near the pickupcoil, it'll turn it to a gooey mess.
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 01:58 PM
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From: Accord NY
Car: 90 IROC original owner
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Distributor

Should I disassemble it?
How should I remove the rust?
What goop should I use?
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 02:36 PM
  #4  
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From: Portland, OR
Car: 86 Imponte Ruiner 450GT, 91 Formula
Engine: 350 Vortec, FIRST TPI, 325 RWHP
Transmission: 700R4 3000 stall.
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: Distributor

Brush off the loose stuff and apply new thermal grease to the module. Otherwise just leave it alone. The bit that is rusty is the reluctor and the rust is not going to affect it's operation. They all look like that due to moisture and ozone that's created inside the cap.

GD
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Old Feb 9, 2019 | 06:53 PM
  #5  
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From: Accord NY
Car: 90 IROC original owner
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Distributor

Good news.
The least expensive option.

Thanks
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 06:10 AM
  #6  
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From: Accord NY
Car: 90 IROC original owner
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Distributor

Is this a good choice for thermal paste?
Thanks for your time.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087X72...v_ov_lig_dp_it
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 08:19 AM
  #7  
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Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: Distributor

Originally Posted by BigBlock73

Is there a fix or do I get a new one
That's from moisture. Use a small brush to remove the loose bits. If that is still a factory pickup coil on a factory distributor it should use a snap ring to hold it in place. If its aftermarket it probably uses a clip that must be destroyed to remove it. You could remove it if you wanted to clean a little better but it sounds as if it isn't giving you problems so I wouldn't remove it. Make sure the screens on the bottom of the distributor base plate are clean and not blocked. Make sure you don't also have corrosion at the Ignition Control Module and Pickup coil connector. You can put a thin bead of dielectric grease on the bottom of the cap as a seal to help keep moisture out that way. The other way to move air inside the cap would be to use GM # 10477219 rotor. It has fins on the bottom designed to move air over the Ignition Control Module and help remove moisture through the screens. Buy whatever magic goop you want, as long as you use something it's not going to make a difference.

Last edited by Tibo; Feb 10, 2019 at 08:24 AM.
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 12:40 PM
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From: Portland, OR
Car: 86 Imponte Ruiner 450GT, 91 Formula
Engine: 350 Vortec, FIRST TPI, 325 RWHP
Transmission: 700R4 3000 stall.
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt Torsen 3.70
Re: Distributor

Originally Posted by BigBlock73
Is this a good choice for thermal paste?
Thanks for your time.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0087X72...v_ov_lig_dp_it
Yes that's a good choice.
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 06:19 PM
  #9  
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From: Perth Western Australia
Car: 1987 Z28 Camaro
Engine: 305 LG4 4bbl
Transmission: TH700R4
Re: Distributor

mine looked a lot like this, had endless connectivity issues and the pickup coil was stuffed in the end. They really arent that expensive considering how much work they do and how long they last.
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Old Feb 10, 2019 | 07:00 PM
  #10  
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From: Desert
Car: 1991 Z28 Vert
Engine: 383 single plane efi
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 8.8 with 3.73s
Re: Distributor

If you are worried about the functionality of the Pickup coil then just test it. Pull the 2 prong connector from the pickup to the module. Stick a paperclip in each of it's female sockets and hook your multi-meter up to each paperclip. Set the multi-meter on AC voltage. Remove the rotor and hook up a 1/2" drill's chuck to where the rotor was. slowly begin to turn the drill and observe the multi-meter. The voltage should fluctuate evenly up and down because it's making a sinusoidal AC wave. Turn the drill faster and it should alternate faster. Oscilloscope is the best way to do this but multi-meter will work just as well.
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