Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
03-31-2019, 11:09 AM
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Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
Hey guys I need some clarification on what going on with my engine. I installed a new engine myself on my 92 RS V8 305 TBI and started the engine yesterday afternoon, after I turned off the engine I checked to see the fluid were okay and checked the oil and seen that it looked to be a milky color. Everything on the engine is all new from the intake manifold down to the oil pan. Can it be just a simple intake manifold gasket ?
03-31-2019, 02:38 PM
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Car: 89 Firebird
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Re: Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
Uh oh. Sounds like head gasket.. Hope not and good luck with it.
03-31-2019, 04:26 PM
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Re: Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
Pull the intake manifold off. If the gasket looks ok then it must be a head gasket.
03-31-2019, 10:21 PM
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Re: Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
If it's a "new engine"...as in a rebuild that came completely assembled, and it came with a warranty, check with the seller before you start taking things apart. It could void your warranty.
04-01-2019, 08:08 AM
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Re: Coolant and oil mixing after new engine install ?
The head bolt sealer suggestion from Orange is the place I would suggest starting. They should have some sort of NON-HARDENING sealer on the threads and under the bolt heads; NOT RTV of any sort, for sure. Best thing these days is the Loctite/Permatex "Automotive High-Temp Thread Sealer with PTFE".
If you put the heads on and didn't use that, you will need to pull them all, 17 per head, because every one of them goes into the water jacket. Drain the coolant completely, including the block drain plugs; pull the bolts out one at a time; clean the threads and put the sealer on both the threads and the underside of the bolt head; put them back in; and torque them to 60 - 65 ft-lbs carefully but DO NOT exceed 65. I strongly recommend NOT using a "clicker" type torque wrench, but rather a dial or beam type. Measure torque while the bolt is actually turning, NOT "breakaway" torque (which is why a "clicker" is the wrong tool for this). DO NOT exceed 65 ft-lbs!!!
If you used the correct sealer on them already, then check the intake gaskets.
It's not likely to be the head gaskets. Not impossible of course, just, not likely. Not near as likely as some of these other things.
If you put the heads on and didn't use that, you will need to pull them all, 17 per head, because every one of them goes into the water jacket. Drain the coolant completely, including the block drain plugs; pull the bolts out one at a time; clean the threads and put the sealer on both the threads and the underside of the bolt head; put them back in; and torque them to 60 - 65 ft-lbs carefully but DO NOT exceed 65. I strongly recommend NOT using a "clicker" type torque wrench, but rather a dial or beam type. Measure torque while the bolt is actually turning, NOT "breakaway" torque (which is why a "clicker" is the wrong tool for this). DO NOT exceed 65 ft-lbs!!!
If you used the correct sealer on them already, then check the intake gaskets.
It's not likely to be the head gaskets. Not impossible of course, just, not likely. Not near as likely as some of these other things.
Last edited by sofakingdom; 04-01-2019 at 12:41 PM.
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