stalling on shifting to drive/reverse
#1
stalling on shifting to drive/reverse
hey guys and gals i have an 89 rs with the 305 in it and needs some insight on trouble shooting stall on reverse and drive application ive tried checking the air sensors vacuums and other things also will rough idle when turning headlights on or pressing brake.
cleaned the throttle position sensor and going to check the egr im replacing the fuel filter and oil filters/oil change soon but any tips would be appreciated it has 247000kms on it previous owner says it had a rebuild not entirely sure if it was or not looks pretty original other than new starter and some other parts thanks for your time!
PS will also sometimes stall from idle when turning on lights
cleaned the throttle position sensor and going to check the egr im replacing the fuel filter and oil filters/oil change soon but any tips would be appreciated it has 247000kms on it previous owner says it had a rebuild not entirely sure if it was or not looks pretty original other than new starter and some other parts thanks for your time!
PS will also sometimes stall from idle when turning on lights
#6
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 26,089
Received 1,681 Likes
on
1,276 Posts
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Re: stalling on shifting to drive/reverse
PS will also sometimes stall from idle when turning on lights
stall on reverse and drive application … rough idle when turning headlights on or pressing brake
See my signature for help with troubleshooting. As you read it, place particular emphasis on the word "ALL".
While of course it's possible that the OP has BOTH a bad alt AND a TCC problem, the likelihood of BOTH problems simultaneously appearing in the SAME car at the SAME time is somewhat … quantum-mechanical.
I'd recommend looking at classic "driveability" type issues. Things like, fuel injectors that need cleaned. It would be helpful to tell whether this car is TBI or TPI. If TBI, it takes about a half-hour, a $10 kit, and a quart of lacquer thinner to "rebuild" the injectors. Given that this will make the car run about 1000% better EVEN IF they're not The Problem, it's the VERY FIRST THING I would do. Even before replacing spark plugs. If it's TPI, one can buy a set of cleaned, flow-matched, fully tested ones from any number of places, including acoupla the sponsors of this forum, with whom I've done business myself and had good results; a FULL SET (qty 8) of them like this, costs less than ONE "new" replacement. Next thing I'd look at would be the distributor itself; not "have it tested", not "how can it be bad if it starts and runs", not "looks OK to me", NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT NOT. Those things are NOTORIOUS for failing in weird, cryptic, bizarre modes, mostly related to the pickup coil sintered-iron magnetic pole pieces crumbling to dust. Which of course, one can always replace the ICM, pickup coil, etc. etc. etc.; but one would STILL be left with an old wore-out sloppy-loose POS with about a million miles on it. If there is ANY suspicion that it's bad, just REPLACE IT, the whole thing. Don't try to "repair" it.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post